I seem to have a small water leak. This could be where its coming from. Looking in from the front it's between the engine and the left inner wing, it's actually on the wing.

Thanks

Click image to enlarge

It's the heater control valve, they do a rebuild kit for it..

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-RANG...3092778301

 Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I replied to another thread asking how this is replaced, mine is caput - and I can barely reach it.

Download the workshop manual from the Wiki, it’s under climate, heating & ventilation.
I’ve just downloaded it, it’s invaluable.


Rob. 2011 (MY12) 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2016 Golf GTI PP

Gone
Audi A4
VW Passat
VW Corrado G60
VW Golf GTI
BMW E30
Mini
Vauxhall Chvette

Cheers, I will do a bit of reading.

I downloaded the WM from wiki, but when I look under the section of removal the writing next to points 3,4,5,6 is blank. Is this same for everyone or just me. I downloaded it twice to see if it was a download error.

Ok, a bit of an update, I got the car on a ramp and looked from underneath and it seemed like the water leak was coming from one of the 3 pipes that come out of the back of the heater control valve. So ordered the 3 pipes, whilst changing one, might as well change all 3 while down there.
Afterwards, I still had a water leak, checked that it was coolant and it was, but the 3 pipes were dry but water was still coming from that area,
So, the only other pipe work in that area was this gadget......



The cost of the pipe IS £700+

OUCH!!

Part number







Its a RIGHT to change, but changed it.

Fingers crossed and its now not leaking, driven it for over 60 miles with spare water with me just in case.

Looks like it could have been leaking from this part of the piping...






It feels like aluminium but I've been told its not.

Since finding and fixing this leak, talking to the guys where I bought the pipes from 2 other guys in the area have had the same problem and had to do same fix.

I more than feel your pain. At the end of last year I had exactly the same leak and in the same spot!!

That water manifold is an absolute nightmare to change and would have cost a small fortune as a part.

However instead of replacing the unit as a whole, I bought 5m of 16mm, 5/8" car heater EPDM hose and then cut off all the ends of the old manifold to act as "joints" and made up a replacement complete manifold unit.

Included the lower pipe anchor sections to bolt it back onto the car and cable secures to keep things neat and tidy.

Ran the new pipes all the way to the heater.

Cost +- £25 and still have a good 2m of pipe left over.

I thought that a replacement metal part was a total rip off and with modern flexible hoses not necessary.

Touch wood, so far so good.

Best, Rich L322 3.6 TDV8 Vogue. 07MY
ML 320 7 Seat full leather etc. (The Black Pearl)

Hope your fix is 100 %. I’m hoping mine is now fixed too although may have cost a few £’s more.

RichM63 wrote:

I

However instead of replacing the unit as a whole, I bought 5m of 16mm, 5/8" car heater EPDM hose Rich

Hiya, I have traced a coolant leak to exactly the same spot. How did you get the 3 pipes out to replace them? Any tips or tricks? Looks like a to get to.

I'm in the same boat too, coolant flooding out just behind the heater valve block under the fuel filter assembly. Leak vastly reduces if the interior heater/cooler fan is switched off yet still empties itself after a minute or two.

I have the tubing ready as per Rich's recommendation as well as a good condition used pipe manifold with valve, but access looks like a nightmare, I assume the fuel filter set up needs to be taken apart and moved out of the way, then there are a few bolts in the side of the heater valve but unsure of how to gain access to remove or cut and tube the feed to the bulkhead. Will be trying it from top down, rather than accessing underneath the car, but may change angle depending on obstacles.

I guess I will find out through trial and error, but it looks tight.

It looks like on the earlier models they used rubber/silicone tubing rather than loads of aluminium to route the heater coolant. So many cost cutting issues with the 2010-2012 models, poorer quality steel with rust issues and now this etc. Tom

Current Drive
2011 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography - Santorini Black - Ivory Leather

Previous Drives
2004 Model Vogue Td6 (Touchscreen) - Java Black - Parchment Leather
1994 RR Classic 3.9 V8 Soft dash - Niagara Grey - Grey Leather
1972 Series III SWB Safari - Green (Hand Painted) - Black Plastic