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paul70



Member Since: 06 Mar 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Santorini Black
Ball joint separator size

Failed MoT last week on front lower arm ball joint. Have had these replaced before by local independent a few years ago but thanks to this forum prefer to tackle repairs myself now.
Ordered a new arm (Delphi) and fitted on Saturday.



I thought I was all set up tools-wise but my fork ball joint separator wasn't wide enough.
Thankfully by using the fork like a chisel from above managed to separate.

Think the one I've got has an opening of 19mm. What size is required? All factor parts places locally only have the same size.

Not much space above the ball joint probably limits options, but I am keen to replace the other side ASAP as prefer to replace items like this in pairs, but want to make sure I've got everything I need first.

Thanks

Post #584068 16th Feb 2021 5:58pm
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GGDR



Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 3542

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Stornoway Grey

 Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Post #584079 16th Feb 2021 6:44pm
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GGDR



Member Since: 26 Nov 2016
Location: London
Posts: 3542

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Stornoway Grey

The about separator is what I used, write up here:
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post538258.html#538258

but is that the correct arm? I think it is but yours looks a tad different

. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Post #584080 16th Feb 2021 6:44pm
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paul70



Member Since: 06 Mar 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Santorini Black

Thanks for the reply and link however it's the other arm, the front one. Got the pitman puller myself when did rear upper arm. However the lower arm has the ball joint facing up not down therefore you don't have much room between the top and the driveshaft.




I've found the specialist tool mentioned in the WM @ £180! however it doesn't state size so not sure of alternative.

Post #584117 17th Feb 2021 8:43am
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D3Jon



Member Since: 15 Aug 2020
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 418

United Kingdom 

I came across this same problem when I first starting working on L322's around 10 years ago now. I simple modified my existing splitter with a grinder to be both wider (in the opening) and a bit shorter.

If it won't budge with the splitter alone, then a combination of the splitter exerting pressure together with a lump hammer placed on the back of the joint and a thwack with another hammer and the arm will drop out no problem.

The thing with this arm, is in 95% of the cases I'd think you'd be replacing the complete arm (unless removing the hub for bearing / CV boot), so damaging the ball joint boot rubber isn't really an issue.

Jon 1992 RR Classic 3.9 efi Vogue
2014 Disco 4 HSE
===================
Both my fatties now gone...
Previous: 2011 L322 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE /// 2002 L322 4.4 V8 HSE /// 2009 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 XS /// 2004 Defender 90 TD5 /// 1993 110 V8 Snatch Landrover /// 2005 Discovery 3 2.7 TDV6 SE (Aus) /// 1990 110 Isuzu 3.9 County (Aus) /// 1976 Series III Trayback (Aus)

Post #584127 17th Feb 2021 10:58am
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paul70



Member Since: 06 Mar 2018
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Santorini Black

Damn fine idea thanks!
Thumbs Up

Post #584131 17th Feb 2021 11:14am
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