Yup, thats exactly what needs to happen !
Got back from the shop earlier and they cant get the bolt out either (An hour £££ wasted). So i’ve driven it home again and shoved it on the drive.

Ive got it booked in for the 4th of Jan, they said around £150 will sort it inc fitting of the new bolts and 2x new cv boots ive provided.
As i’ve got some time off work....I am thinking of just continuing myself now if it needs cutting, it meeds cutting. As-long as dont mess up thr knuckle in anyway....ive got a reciprocating saw that I wonder would get in the gaps as a hacksaw
would taken bloody forever like you suggest.

I can then undo it from the diff...remove the abs sensor & handbrake mechanism (again).
Take the whole flippin thing to a shop and get it removed.

......Trouble is for the sake of £150, hardly seems worthet.Might aswell let someone else suffer for 1/2 a day & its done then.

What do you think ?

For £150, I'll let them have the hassle

lol I thought as much, its one of those “just because you can, doesnt mean you should”

The work includes the following:-

- Cut out the bolt between the knuckle
- Unbolt 1/2 shaft from diff
- Undo lower bolt (thankfully I was able to loosen this, so this bush can stay in toe. I got new top & bottom bolts
- Unplug ABS sensor, handbrake cable (I guess that means un-doing the brake drum that only recently put back together with those buttons from another brake shoe pin kit
- Somehow separate the shaft from the hub on the bench
- Add on my universal CV stretch boots
- Press in the new bush on the top of the knuckle
- Re-assemble (ill also make sure they adjust the shoe so its 6 clicks of the handbrake

Suppose its a no brainer, probably get them to do some welding on the subframe (yet more bloody rust) as ive noticed 2 holes.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10T-Hydraulic-P...SwvEFfcvI~

you also need 5 std wheel nuts and someone with a lathe to turn the outer diameter of the threaded section of each nut down down a bit so that it fits inside the slots in the puller's flange.

the wheel centring spigot on the drive flange is proud of the face of the drive flange and this means the puller's flange cant get up close to the drive flange resulting in insufficient thread of the wheel studs protruding the backside of the puller. the modified wheel nuts fit inside the puller's flange to address this.

forgot to mention that if its tight enough that you need a tool to get it apart you will also probly need one to put it back together!

ask your lathe friend to weld a spare big hub nut onto a suitable sized tube then turn the threaded part down so that its thin enough to fit down past the splines till the threads engage .

I've not made one of these and didn't need one because even though my splines were a very tight fit, sufficient thread was proud of the hole to get a nut on and tighten to pull the cv shaft fully home. however, I have heard of others who did not have sufficient thread and so I was prepared for the problem!

Im not continuing with it anymore mate

For the sake of £150, they can faff around with it themselves. It was because I couldnt the shaft separated from the hub
myself with my puller, is what caused me to start undoing the knuckle nuts (and snapping one of them). To aid in the loosening situation.

I was going to buy the land rover hub/modified but for the sake of all the additional tools id be buying.
On this occasion, it’ll get done my the garage.

Just to close my promise of pictures of the hub puller a friend and I made...






Sorry its taken a while. Range Rover 4.2 Supercharged 2006
Ford Focus EcoBoost 1.5 2017
MG TF 2003

Previous Cars of note
Land Rover Discovery 2
Jaguar Mk2 3.8 - Company car
MG Midget 1974 - Concours

Looks good - very manly lol  Current Fleet

FF L322 2.9TD6 SE
BMW e46 330ci Msport
Skoda Superb TDI Mk2, stage 1
Audi A3 8P 2.0 T 4x4, stage 2
Yamaha R6 13S
Triumph Thruxton R
Sold, but not forgotten

WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee V8

We’ll the knuckle assembly & shaft is out, but not separated (still !)
As their pullers wouldnt do it either.....As I already knew would be highly likely, the assembly would need to be walked up the road to a machine shop they use.

But as this was at 18:00 last night, it wascobviously shut

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I have been asked for some dimensions so hope this helps

Its made of 10mm mild steel, the bolt is M16 x 70mm with matching nut welded under the top plate.

Click image to enlarge

Bloomin marvelous

Thanks a lot  Current Fleet

FF L322 2.9TD6 SE
BMW e46 330ci Msport
Skoda Superb TDI Mk2, stage 1
Audi A3 8P 2.0 T 4x4, stage 2
Yamaha R6 13S
Triumph Thruxton R
Sold, but not forgotten

WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee V8

So would have been far easier and cheaper to have bought the correct tool in the first place then sir? 👍

well duuuh !!!!  Current Fleet

FF L322 2.9TD6 SE
BMW e46 330ci Msport
Skoda Superb TDI Mk2, stage 1
Audi A3 8P 2.0 T 4x4, stage 2
Yamaha R6 13S
Triumph Thruxton R
Sold, but not forgotten

WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee V8

bigbo wrote:

I have been asked for some dimensions so hope this helps

Its made of 10mm mild steel, the bolt is M16 x 70mm with matching nut welded under the top plate.

Click image to enlarge

I believe bigbo and a few others have been making their own pullers with assistance from freinds/engineering shops I’m very greatful for this and my hopefully my mate is also making me up something similar too. Maybe ill tackle the rear again in the summer, or I will wait until those brake shoe pins rust through

I removed my front shaft with only a few knocks the other day which is good. I just know that something else will go wrong and I will be needing the puller again. The shaft is now at a garage having new CV boots fitted as I have no way of separating the joint from shaft myself Current Fleet

FF L322 2.9TD6 SE
BMW e46 330ci Msport
Skoda Superb TDI Mk2, stage 1
Audi A3 8P 2.0 T 4x4, stage 2
Yamaha R6 13S
Triumph Thruxton R
Sold, but not forgotten

WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee V8