Afternoon all,
Now I know this subject has been covered in other posts, however, typically, my problem seems to be unique;
So one day out of the blue a couple of weeks ago, the key wouldn’t turn. That’s odd I thought, so I grabbed the spare key and had the same problem. Left the car for a day or two and then it started working fine and I thought nothing more of it. Car worked fine for about a week, and then the problem returned. So having scanned through these hallowed pages i’ve discinnected and reconnected the battery, held the two disconnected terminals together for a minute or so, removed and refitted fuse 18, and tried tapping the steering column in the vicinity of the lock, all to no avail.
Interestingly the key has since been recognised again on one occasion only, and that was before I’d tried any of the above. I’ve also removed the steering column ECU plug connector and refitted it, and tried all manner of combinations of doing that, then disconnecting the battery, r&r fuse 18 etc etc, and still no good.
During the week after it’s initial hiccup the lock worked fine, giving no indication the pin was struggling to move or anything like that. So far all my fault finding has achieved is throw doubt on whether it needs a new steering column, and my feeling is it is more ignition barrel related. I’ve tried both keys several times, turned the keys around and offered the other ends to the barrel to see if they’re then recognised, but again no.
Interestingly, every single post I’ve read about this talks about the pre2007 models with the key barrel next to the gearshift and the old BMW style keys, whereas mine has the ignition barrel mounted higher up the dash near the vents, and uses the matchbox shaped flip key.
Any help on this guys would be greatly appreciated as it’s driving me mad, and to make matters worse, it’s stuck with the steering lock engaged and parked with the front wheels at an angle.....

Update; so although I was doubtful, having removed the top section of the steering column and gained entry to the lock plunger housing, I’ve removed the lock plunger and found it to be moving freely. So I lubed it anyway, and plugged the plunger block connector back in to the circuit board but left the plunger mechanism hanging so I could access it, left the cover off and plugged the steering module back in. Reconnected the battery, and inserted the key into the barrel while manually operations the plunger and............ the key still won’t move.
This then leads me to believe that for some reason the keys aren’t being recognised by the lock barrel. So, more diag and investigation required, but if anyone’s could offer some insight I would be very grateful. Remember though, that although mine is a 2007, it has the lock barrel mounted high up on the dash, not next to the gearshift and doesn’t have the BMW shaped keys.
Thanks in anticipation.

my car is a 2007 with dash key hole but bmw key
I had a similar issue with no turning key. that was resolved by the IID tool
also really check the wiring to the battery.


https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic51475.html

If you hold the key beside the barrel you should hear a click as the car picks up the key. Does this happen on yours? Before you put the key in

Hi, and thanks for your input. To answer your questions though, I had no warning lights whatsoever, and prior to the failure the car was running perfectly. The battery is less than two years old, is in a good state of charge, and both terminals where tight and secure.
Regrading the keys being recognised, no, there is no sound or faint click or anything when either key is offered up. This is why I’m of the mindset that the problem may be with the lock barrel/ignition switch rather then a the steering lock. Only snag is it looks like removing the switch assembly is a bit of a work up......

Yep, removing the ignition switch was indeed a workup. So while I could easily buy a replacement and fit it, does anyone know of a bench test it’s possible to do? Also, I’m assuming you can remove the key lock barrel so you can reuse your existing key, and I’m guessing the tine hole next to the key slot is relevant? Anyone know the procedure. Would be a huge help.

So I’ve got to the bottom of it, the actual steering lock mechanism had jammed internally. Nothing to do with the locking pin not retracting or anything like that, just a simple (and typically rare) mechanical failure that nobody seems to have come across before. A replacement top section of steering column and normal service resumed. Stay tuned for next week’s failure.....

Hi Sam, very interested to read your posts as I’m having a similar problem.
I, too, have a 2007 L322 with the key high up. My problems started (as they often seem to from other forums) with a flat battery. I hadn’t driven my rr for several weeks over lockdown and had, stupidly, left the doors unlocked. When I came to start her the key turned fine and the engine only just turned over. I then turned the key back and did not remove it. Tried to turn the key again and it wouldn’t turn. Disconnected battery and charged it, did hard reset by touching the leads together and she started fine . . took her for a 20 minute drive. Next day key wouldn’t turn.
The battery is suspect, so have suspended all action until a new battery is fitted. However, I fear I have the dreaded steering column disease.
Did you buy a new steering column at significant expense, or did you find a clever fix. My inclination would be to completely disable the steering column lock and hard set the sensors to “safe to drive” mode as a permanent fix.
What are your thoughts? Anyone else have any experience of a permanent (inexpensive) fix?
Thanks to all,
Stuart Stuart
L322 2007 TDV8 Vogue

https://www.google.com/search?q=robthecarg...;ie=UTF-8#

If you remove the upper column be wary of orientation of the clock spring.

The above fix does work, mine failed in the locked position, luckily at home

Direct link couldn't edit on phone

Nespouls

DO NOT what ever you do drill the casting, drill too far in and you . There is a youtube clip of someone who did this but got away with it....just!


Mine is playing up awell, been an 03 its well covered on forums, see my thread, but suspect something else going on as well.

Hope you get it sorted. If it dont work.......burn it!

If the IId tool cant fix it.......burn the FF.

If the FF cant be fixed......buy a Land Cruiser!

If the LC cant be fixed..............................................BUY a horse !!

Hello Stuart,
First and foremost, don't faff around with bodges like drilling holes in the housing, wiring in bypass switches or getting the pin to remain permanently in the ok to drive position. Just repair it properly and it will be far more reliable and far more sellable when the time comes to move it on. Would you buy a car with random switches scattered around the dashboard....?
Besides, when you know what you have to do it's actually quite straightforward repair. It'll cost you about £120 an around an hour of your time. Mine suffered a jammed mechanism, was nothing to do with the pin but the symptoms were the same, and the repair outlined below will also fix locking pin problems.
Adjust the steering wheel so that it's as far out as it'll go then disconnect the battery. Remove the airbag and steering wheel, then remove the top and bottom steering column shrouds. Disconnect all the block connectors and undo 2x 8mm bolts, one either side of the steering column. You'll then be able to remove the 2x triangular shaped slotted yokes and then the 2x eccentrics that allow up and down adjustment of the steering wheel. If you then give the top section of the column a tug it just comes away. Don't buy a whole column, just the top section, and don't bother trying to repair it, you'll be wasting your time. Get a replacement top section off ebay or suchlike, there's loads available for around £120.
When you start to reassemble, replace the 2x eccentrics, 2x yokes and nip up the 2x 8mm bolts. Before you go any further just slide the steering wheel back on the splines and see if there's any backlash in the up and down plane. If there is, play around with the eccentrics until there's no free play. You can then put everything back together but do not push the airbag all the way back onto its two mounting clips. The reason being is the first time you'll drive it you'll find the steering wheel off center so you'll have to remove it again, and if you've got this far you know what a faff removing the airbag is!
Anyway there you go, good luck with it.

Sam

Unless you buy a column from ebay that's starting to suffer from the same issue

If you do decide to remove the airbag, use a thin screw driver, when you insert it all the way in push it forwards this will dislodge the connector at one side, repeat for the other side, job done

Hth

Hello Sam and dingg1, thank you both for taken the time to respond and to provide such useful information, I really appreciate it.
Sam, I totally agree with you. A magnificent car deserves better than a bodge fix and I will follow your advice. I have always shied away from secondhand spares, but in this case: needs must. Before installing the replacement top section are there any bench tests one can do to ensure it does not suffer from the same fault . . . and any preventative maintenance to do on it to prolong it’s active life?
I have a slight issue in that my Bunty is lhd and so I will have to match up part numbers before purchasing. I suspect lhd and rhd are not the same.
One final question, please, Sam, is how would you define “top section”? I’ve had a look at ebay UK and ebay Fr and there are a wide variety of columns in various conditions of build.
Many thanks again to you.
Stuart Stuart
L322 2007 TDV8 Vogue