If you have the original 4 hoses then definitely ditch and replace with the 70mm silicone versions. Could be the source of all your issues. We’ve seen this a lot over the years and as Greg said, splits are often hidden.
Follow Neil’s posts in that link
Another example https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic52120...p;start=15

Silicone hoses fitted on mine

Thanks DrRob, I'll definitely replace the hoses, will order some tonight and get em fitted. I'll update as and when.

Cheers

Paul

At least then you know you’ve eliminated that potential weak point.
Is the intercooler to throttle body pipe sooty anywhere where is joins the throttle body? That clip is a weak point  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

It was a little sooty around the hard plastic spigot where the rubber hose mounts over. Didn't seem drastically sooted, but there was definite cake around the little raised bits etc. It's a process of elimination!

The GAP IID Bluetooth is much better than the icarsoft lr2. I can say that as I’ve had both
The IID works on your phone via an app and more importantly it can monitor DPF soot levels and exhaust temperatures that show when an active burn isn’t taking place etc.
Get an IID from Island 4x4
I’m confident with the combined knowledge on here coupled with an IID that a solution can be found  Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

See my thread here. https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic55878.html

I would also recommend reading Geoff's (GGDR) threads as he has imparted lots of info on this subject. Just for clarity there are 3 types of regen:
1. Passive (the car does it when the parameters are correct,; fuel level, speed etc.)
2. Active (the car overfuels to achieve the correct exhaust temps to initiate a DPF burn)
3. Forced (normally done on a Red warning and requires MD Software (Or GGDR's DA kit)

check the number of Demanded DPF re-Generations on your icarsoft if you can. I have very similar probs to you: no fault codes; DPf was cleaned in feb; no air leaks (new inlet manifold replaced- minute crack); LR unable to say what is wrong (LR technical Case initiated yesterday) however it demands 1,800 regens in 10 minutes!! However it will drop the DPF soot reading by 2-3g so IS starting regens but not completing.

I reckon it is electronic as there are 4 ECUs that look after Regens.

The reason your oil level is changing is prob because during "Active" regens the ECU over-fuels in order to raise the exhaust temps to initiate soot burn. Excess unburnt fuel drains into the crankcase and dilutes the oil. The critical level is 7 (on the Gap IID tool) - this can be lowered by a simple oil change (resets to zero). Mine is currently reading 4.7.

WARNING - if your DPF soot level gets above 28.5, LR will not be able to force regen as their software inhibits it. I went to a tuning specialist who did a clean for £200. He was also able to clear a red warning triangle at the same time.

Hope this helps.

Thanks DrRob, will be investing in the IID tool, and the ability to have it plugged in whilst driving without it covering my break peddle is much safer

I'll be able to post the screen grabs when i get the accurate readings.

Dolphinboy, I've read your posts also and seen you had the inlet manifold replaced etc. Sorry to hear it hasn't resolved your issues. I'm starting to feel like I'm in the same position myself (but remaining optimistic )

Paul,

So either your car is not regenning properly or is sooting too fast for the regens to clear the DPF. Most DPF issues are not the DPF itself. The DPF is a porcelain filter that can be heated by over-fuelling to burn off soot - they almost never break.

I suggest you eliminate the following causes:

1) Are you driving in the right conditions to trigger a Regen i.e. regularly driving >37mph steadily for 10-20 mins
2) Are you maintaining more than 1/4 tank of fuel?
3) MAF / MAP sensors clean
4) All Hoses + Induction system / inlet manifolds smoke tested for leaks.
5) ECU software checked working and not re-mapped + while you're at it figure out the "P2459 DPF Regeneration Frequency" fault code. This is unique as far as I am aware and needs further investigation if the above are all ok.

A quick search found this: "OBD II fault code P2459 is a generic code that is defined as “Diesel Particulate Filter Regeneration Frequency”, and is set on diesel vehicles when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) detects that the regeneration frequency of the DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) is not conforming to a predefined and/or specified rate." I don't remember seeing this fault code before so this might be it.


Less frequent / secondary considerations:

6) Turbos / Turbo Drain Mod
7) EGR valve nick (ultra rare) or EGR sensor fault.
8. Throttle butterflys (but according to a LR Chief tech this is sensed and easily recognised - the sensors show precisely what degree they are open to).
9) Fuel injectors blocked or faulty but again this is sensed and would throw up a fault code too.


Finally - don't over-worry. DPF issues seem like a dark art initially - usually because the problems are mis-diagnosed and the wrong treatment prescribed; like cleaning the DPF. This cleans up the mess but does not necessarily address the cause .

There are so many L322 4.4 TDV8s out there but only a handful of reported DPF problems - most of which are easily diagnosable once you know what to look for - an IID Tool will certainly help (below is the live value setup I use). The description you give of your sooting speed suggests a split hose - which quickly puts up a DPF Full Yellow warning light, just like you described.


best,

Click image to enlarge

Quote:

Geoff (GGDR)

Close, it's Greg
Also: use cruise control

. Cheers, Greg
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
2011 Vogue SE 4.4 with lots of toys in Stornaway

Greg, sorry chap. It was late and I'd had a number of Beavertown Lupoloid beers!! Will update you as soon as I have stg concrete to report.

Thanks Range Rover L322, and a good bit of insight / motivation to keep going with the investigation. I am definitely keen to rule out the 90% likely leak issue (and with a bit of luck that is what's causing this). I've got it booked in to a local garage today, I'm going to ask specifically for a high pressure smoke test on the air system.

Cheers

Paul

Good. If they only have low pressure then it won't be good enough to find the smallest leaks.
Silocne hoses on yet? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Hi DrRob, sorry for the late reply. I've ordered the hoses to replace so when they arrrive I'll fit (probably over the weekend).

I told the ECU the DPF had been replaced (given there were no fault codes other than "P259-65 (6C) Diesel particulate filter regeneration frequency - Algorithm based failure - signal has too few transitions/events".

After this, the DPF filter was reset to 0.

Using the IID tool, whilst driving to the motorway to give it a blast the soot rose from 0 to around 15 (from memory as was driving at this point and not recording the levels).

I was on around 1/3 tank with engine at temperature etc and drove for around 25 minutes (10 minutes A roads / 15 minutes Motorway with no stops).

Pulled in for petrol and hooked up the IID again. Soot reading was now 0....

No demanded regens recorded, nor any partial regens.

Driving back the way I came and under same conditions EGR live readings in the region of:

Bank 1: Sensor 1 @ 415°C / Sensor 2 @ 145°C / Sensor 3 @ 320°C
Bank 2: Sensor 1 @ 160°C

The above where whilst accelerating quite hard (circa 2500 to 3500 RPM in sport mode)

Normal motorway miles at approx. 1500mm RPM the DPF pressure sensor voltage on Bank 1 was around 0.79 to 0.82v.

I will upload screenshots when I get chance.

The above retrun journey added around 6.5g of soot, but I'm not sure the reductions are applied / caluclated during the journey or afterwards once you stop?

I'll plug in again tonight and read the new soot levels.

I'm still learning on the IDD tool so once I'm a bit more aufait with the functions I can be more concise. But so far so good.

Have you had the high pressure smoke test done yet? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Not yet - the garage I took it to couldn't do the test so I'm going to have to find one who can.