Hi all, I am in the process of sorting the rust on the normal spot on the rear arch. I'm tackling it from the inside this time and as there is some in the corner when removing the subwoofer dvd etc. It's odd as it's totally bone dry in there but there is some rust and moisture in the corner that seems to them rust through the otherwise. Anyway I am going to wire brush it back and waxoil or equivalent in there then tackle the outside. Unless anyone has a better idea? Understand cutting it out is best but if treated both sides hope this will work.

Anyway everything is removed to get at it except this black plastic thing which I have no idea what it is or how to remove it so wondered if anyone can help at all?

Click image to enlarge

Black box is held on with some plastic barbs, you just have to be violent to get it off, or take the bumper off and do it from the outside...

You need to remove ALL of the rust, every last bit or it will come back, all these rust killers etc they sell only work to an extent, the rust will always come back unless it is all removed...

If you treat the inside then do the outside, neither filler or paint will stick with rust proofing oozing through from the inside...!! Pete

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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thanks. What's the box for and called?

Will just whip the bumper off as it's a 10 Mon job it's easier.

Also been looking at por15 that's supposed to paint on the rust too wonder if I clean it up as good as I can then paint this on as apposed to waxoyl this might be better at keeping it at bay.

Will try and get it all out though Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

Por15 converts the rust it touches, the very outer layer, any rust that has penetrated a panel will have many layers and it will show its ugly head again...

The only way is to cut out ALL the rust, there is no other way....

It is a one way air vent, lets pressure in the car out, otherwise you couldn't have the HVAC blowing air into the car...  Pete

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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I used Por15 and the 2nd stage ate all the rust back to shiny metal. Kept it wet for a good 20mins and got rid of it all and then painted with the 3rd stage.

Once dry I rattle canned it back to body colour. 2011 4.4tdv8 Vogue
Baltic Blue

Thanks both. I will get the wire brush attachment in there and have a go at cleaning it all up on the inside. Then get something on it to stop new rust forming from inside. Then I will attack the outside again as I'd done that last year but the odd spot is coming back through.

With the sills I remember from a while ago Pete you put waxoyl or something similar in your off road one. As they rust out here too is it wise to do these box sections with that or dinitrol as I have some surface rust on the front but have no way to get at the back of these panels to clean that back? Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

You should really tackle both sides at once. When I did mine, I found double skinning, foam insulation (soaked with water) etc. Best to get the bumper off and go at it with a wire brush tool on your drill so you can see the extent - it will be as bad under what may look like good paint. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I agree, unless you cut out all the rust, no matter how much you treat the area and convert the rust, it is still seeded, it’s just a short term fix and will see blistering start under the paint within 18 months.

I have tried many times over 35 yrs to deal with rust and only cutting out the cancer and replacing with good thick metal and then properly paint with good materials will hold rust at bay.

There’s nothing like spending hours stripping, grinding, wire wheel cleaning, sanding, treating, filling and painting and then finally rebuilding the car to notice a year later little blisters 😭

Do it right or don’t bother.

kbald wrote:

With the sills I remember from a while ago Pete you put waxoyl or something similar in your off road one. As they rust out here too is it wise to do these box sections with that or dinitrol as I have some surface rust on the front but have no way to get at the back of these panels to clean that back?

Thanks all. I agree after having done the outside once only for the orange to come back through was annoying to say the least.

I'd love to have a crack at cutting it out and welding in fresh and have this skill moving forward as it's a handy one to have if you like older cars. However, I don't have any knowledge or way to make up the new steel to fit in other than make a cardboard template but some of the contours that would need to be made look tricky. Is there any good resources out there to show how to do this stuff? Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue

Check out YouTube there’s loads of how to videos on how to make repair panels and welding etc

Fitzee’s Fabrications channel is excellent and gives some good tips...

Thanks will give some a watch  Current 2007 TDV8 Vogue Buckingham Blue