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Brian Considine



Member Since: 15 Apr 2019
Location: Garlinge
Posts: 428

United Kingdom 
L322 Battery going flat.

Couple of weeks ago my battery went flat overnight causing the alarm to go off. Recharged battery, checked voltage when engine running +2v and thought OK as I had not used the car for nearly a week (normally used every day), but had done a fair amount of stop start prior to that.
Next morning flat again. Bought & fitted new battery & OK until yesterday - battery flat again.
Time to look for the problem - I've checked back on old threads & the wiki so, to make sure I've got this right ;

1) Car can take up to 20 minutes to go to "sleep" & when fully asleep the "P" light on the gear selector indicator goes out.
2) During this process the drain can start off at around 5A reducing to around .5A.
3) When checking disconnect the bonnet sensing switch.

Other things to check are ;
1) The alternator for discharge when engine/ignition off.
2) Fuse 49 - especially the SatNav.
3) Original Carphone Module.
3) Cover on the OBD port.
Apart from USB chargers left in sockets have I missed anything ?

2003 (BMW) L322 3.0L

Thanks in advance for any help/guidance/pointers. 2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6

Post #557046 9th Jun 2020 9:47am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6408

England 

I found it better to physically disconnect modules and kit rather than trying to pull fuses, especially with all the media/AV stuff, which all seems to be interlinked. (I did try the fuse checking routine that others suggest, but got nowhere with it.

Get yourself a clamp meter, makes life much easier to test the drain.

Also don't confuse the decimal points you are looking for below 50milliAmps as an OK amp level

You have no doubt found this thread:

https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic47332.html?highlight=drain .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #557051 9th Jun 2020 10:26am
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Brian Considine



Member Since: 15 Apr 2019
Location: Garlinge
Posts: 428

United Kingdom 

Thanks Joe - yes, I found the thread & that;'s where I got most of the information from.
Just ordered a Durite 75-0-75A Clamp on for delivery tomorrow.

Although I like my L322 "standard" I would not mind being able to fit an ammeter. 2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6

Post #557054 9th Jun 2020 10:43am
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Brian Considine



Member Since: 15 Apr 2019
Location: Garlinge
Posts: 428

United Kingdom 

Well, I've checked the usual "suspects" & did find that the Satnav CD-ROM unit has a jammed CD-ROM in it & continues to try to eject it for some time - disconnected that but still have the same issue.

Not wanting to upset the neighbours thought I'd disconnect the alarm sounder and whilst doing that - ignition off, bonnet switch tie wrapped down I heard the heater/ventilation motor start up for a couple of seconds, then stop every couple of minutes.

Could this be the issue & what controls this fan motor please ? 2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6

Post #557643 14th Jun 2020 8:47am
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DrRob



Member Since: 16 Apr 2015
Location: Petersfield, Hampshire
Posts: 4302

United Kingdom 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Buckingham Blue

There is a YouTube video or two about a little fan running on behind the dash Thumbs Up Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
2025MY Defender D350 90 in Silicon Silver on coils
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many, many other Landies over the years
My preferred specialist: www.glenrands.co.uk
--------------------------------------------------

Post #557644 14th Jun 2020 8:58am
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ur20v



Member Since: 19 Feb 2019
Location: None
Posts: 634

A Trap 

Check your alternator output, should be approx 14.8v at 2000rpm then slowly drop back over approx. 15mins of driving, at tick over you need at least 13.5v anything less and you are looking at an alternator- not alternators can back feed when they start failing and drain the battery as well.

Check your battery voltage at rest, tick over and at 2000rpm then report back with the figures. (Note the battery rest voltage needs to be taken after approx 10 minutes so all the control units have shut down... leave the bonnet up, shut all the doors then leave for 10 minutes then read the voltage without opening the doors etc.)

Even with a new battery. when drained flat it hurts the battery capacity, number of flats and depth of discharge and lack of proper charging build up so if I was you, I would budget for another battery and possibly an alternator, belt and idler/tensioner pulleys. It’s very common to need to replace all these items on modern cars due to the load and stress the items are under 👍

Post #557646 14th Jun 2020 9:15am
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Mr Tee



Member Since: 13 Dec 2010
Location: Near Wackyjim
Posts: 2643

Scotland 

have you changed the final stage resistor yet?

Post #557647 14th Jun 2020 9:51am
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6408

England 

Quote:
I heard the heater/ventilation motor start up for a couple of seconds


The main blower?

Are you sure this isn't the FBH firing up then shutting down, with nothing to do?

What drain are you getting with the car asleep? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #557648 14th Jun 2020 9:52am
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Brian Considine



Member Since: 15 Apr 2019
Location: Garlinge
Posts: 428

United Kingdom 

The alternator has been tested ^& although the voltages are correct it does take a couple of seconds from engine start to extinguish the charging light.
The battery was replace about a week ago.
The fan noise is what I always hear when unlocking & getting in before switching on the ignition - I've never heard when when the car is/should be asleep.
I suppose it could be the FBH (which does not work anyway).
I'm loath to replace the alternator until I can verify the actual charge amps (75-0-75) clip on ammeter still not turned up.
It does seem to drop to around 0.5amp when asleep but not watched it constantly.
Not too sure about the "little fan" so I may have to look for the YT clip.

Thanks for your help so far guys. 2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6

Post #557656 14th Jun 2020 10:49am
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Brian Considine



Member Since: 15 Apr 2019
Location: Garlinge
Posts: 428

United Kingdom 

Still waiting for the clip on ammeter.

In the meantime ;

Pulled the fuse for the FBH.
Pulled the fuse for the telephone.
Charged the battery during the day.

Locked the car overnight & it started in the morning although maybe did not turn over as quickly as normal, but battery went flat during the day.

Charged up last night & heard the fan noise again - more investigation required. 2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6

Post #557965 17th Jun 2020 5:59am
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Brian Considine



Member Since: 15 Apr 2019
Location: Garlinge
Posts: 428

United Kingdom 

DrRob wrote:
There is a YouTube video or two about a little fan running on behind the dash Thumbs Up


I think this is what I'm hearing - I've had a look on YouTube & cannot find the clip.

Any idea what this fan does & how easy it is to get to it please ? 2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6

Post #557978 17th Jun 2020 7:57am
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Brian Considine



Member Since: 15 Apr 2019
Location: Garlinge
Posts: 428

United Kingdom 

Mr Tee wrote:
have you changed the final stage resistor yet?


Am I correct in thinking that if the FSR is faulty it can prevent the heating/ventilation ECU from shutting down ?

I now have an accurate ammeter in circuit & on turning off the engine the drain goes from around 9A to 2.1 over 30 minutes or so, although there are are few "spikes". At this stage the car is locked (2 x presses on remote, alarm sounder disconnected & although the bonnet is up the switch is tiewrapped down.

However, even with the care "asleep" I can hear something run for a couple of seconds raising the current draw to 2.7A - could this be the cooling fan for the ECU's ?

I have pulled the following fuses from the glovebox unit ;

#22 Telephone
#28 Headlight Cleaning
#40 CD Changer (has CD jammed in it)
#59 Auxiliary Heater 2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6

Post #558065 17th Jun 2020 7:56pm
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6408

England 

Yes, the FSR is one of the things to check/change. You need one of those monkeys with tiny human hands to change it Smile .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #558071 17th Jun 2020 9:18pm
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Joe90



Member Since: 29 Apr 2010
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 6408

England 

I have a new FSR (not LR) you can have for a £10 plus postage .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember Wink
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Post #558073 17th Jun 2020 9:27pm
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Brian Considine



Member Since: 15 Apr 2019
Location: Garlinge
Posts: 428

United Kingdom 

Done - PM sent. 2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6

Post #558077 17th Jun 2020 9:49pm
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