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Home > Technical (L322) > HOW TO: L322 Centre console removal + ignition barrel/switch

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mazza7282

Member Since: 10 May 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 99

HOW TO: L322 Centre console removal + ignition barrel/switch

Hi - Hopefully this thead is in the right section

Either my searching is very bad, or I didnt see any pictures for how to remove the centre console to access the ignition barrel and switch.
I have already seen a write up for a "how to", and looked at the workshop manual on RAVE.

I thought it might be helpful for someone to add some pictures too

1 - Lift up armwrest and remove lower bin cover

Click image to enlarge

2 - Remove lower bin cover

Click image to enlarge

3 - Remove 2 securing bolts

Click image to enlarge

4 - Gently prise up the Transmission lever to aid removal using a plastic trim remover

Click image to enlarge

5 - Remove Transmission level gator with a good amont of force (it will pull out itself)

Click image to enlarge

6 - Gently price up Transmission indicator panel, I removed from the rear facing clips first and worked my way forwards. Be careful as there are electrical connections that will need to be removed when the transmission indicator panel is moved

Click image to enlarge

8 - All the electric cables will only fit one way when you go to refit

Click image to enlarge

9 - The RAVE workshop manual doesnt state to remove the phillips head screws here, but i did anyway, they can always go back at a later date

Click image to enlarge

11 - Remove pair of screws underneath the indicator panel

Click image to enlarge

12 - Gently prise the armrest placstic cover

Click image to enlarge

13 - Which then reveals 2 more screws that need to be removed

Click image to enlarge

15 - Gentley prise around the plastic that covers the ignition barrel, work around these

Click image to enlarge

18 - Directly behind the ignition barrel there will be 2 screws on either side, remove these (you'll see these if you move your head towards the panel and shine a torch)

Click image to enlarge

19 - Be sure to remove the 2 screws for the ignition barrel so it drops down

Click image to enlarge

20 - Either pop out the cigarette ligher and carefully remove the brown and red wires (taking notes as where they go)

Click image to enlarge

21 - Unclip trim panels either side of where the driver and passenger legs would go

Click image to enlarge

22 - Remove last retaining screws, located either side of the panels. You will now be able to wiggle the and tilt the centre console to be able to gain a good amount of access here

Click image to enlarge

23 - Carefully remove the ignition lock cable

Click image to enlarge

24 - Carefully remove the 3 wireing harneses from the ignition barrel and switch

Click image to enlarge

25 - Ignition barrel and switch now removed

Click image to enlarge

27- Admire the mess that you'll have to put back when you refit

Click image to enlarge

To seperate the ignition barrel from the ignition switch, use a small pin in the top where you insert the key (you'l see a small hole)

EDIT: You will also need to remove the 2 securing screws that secure the barrel to the switch

Click image to enlarge

Disclaimer - I know I have probably removed a few more screws then I needed, but they can always go back.
All in all, takes approximately 45mins to an hour to remove, about the same amounf of time its taken me to write this thread.

Last edited by mazza7282 on 26th May 2020 9:49pm. Edited 1 time in total

24th May 2020 10:06pm

Haylands

Member Since: 04 Mar 2014
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 8189

2014 Range Rover Autobiography SDV8 Loire Blue

Top job and nice write up... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

24th May 2020 10:47pm

p38arover

Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1523

Good post. I hope I never have to do it.

Funny how something designed for quick assembly on the production line can be a nightmare to disassemble - part of the problem being figuring it out! Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Last edited by p38arover on 25th May 2020 4:26am. Edited 1 time in total

25th May 2020 12:23am

stan
Site Moderator

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: a moderate moderated moderator moderating moderately in moderation
Posts: 35264

good job, put in our wiki.. ... - .- -.

Y. O. L. O.
.

25th May 2020 4:11am

mazza7282

Member Since: 10 May 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 99

In reference to my "
To seperate the ignition barrel from the ignition switch, use a small pin in the top where you insert the key (you'l see a small hole)"

We'll thats that it says on rave, but how the hell do you separate this apart ?

The small access hole surely isnt the bit where the cable goes in at the side is it ?

26th May 2020 5:14pm

mazza7282

Member Since: 10 May 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 99

Ignore the above post, I missed removing the securing screws, i've amended this in the write up above.

Click image to enlarge

I've also requested wiki editing permissions so it can be added

I've also popped this BMW part number , 6901 961 into ebay and it doesnt relate to anything Land Rover. I know these parts are obviously shared but I just see an ignition starter for a petrol E46.

I'll soon find out I guess as another genuine part for this will be here in the next few days

26th May 2020 9:50pm

Corsica

Member Since: 03 Jan 2019
Location: Corse
Posts: 50

2011 Range Rover HSE TDV8 Santorini Black

Have you unplugged the battery

27th May 2020 5:13pm

stan
Site Moderator

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: a moderate moderated moderator moderating moderately in moderation
Posts: 35264

@mazza...anything you add to this thread is linked in the wiki entry.. ... - .- -.

Y. O. L. O.
.

27th May 2020 5:53pm

verydisco

Member Since: 10 Dec 2009
Location: UK/US
Posts: 2952

2002 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Tangiers Orange

Hi guys, woudl anyone know if anyone has used graphite as a temp soluiton? I have in my P38 and it works

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/19034189482?iid=1...lyEALw_wcB l=Oo\________/oO=l l:OolΞΞΞΞΞΞΞloO:l

Current
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L SDV8 - 2013 - Indus Silver, on Almond.
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L V8 - 2002 - ex-2003 G4 Challenge Event Vehicle, Stage 3: Australia
RANGE ROVER HSE 4.4L V8 - 2004 - one-of-one Overfinch
RANGE ROVER P38a 4.0L V8 - 1999 - ex-2000 TReK Event Vehicle: South Africa

Previous:
RANGE ROVER Vogue 4.4L TDV8 - 2012 - RANGE ROVER 3.6L TDV8 x3 - RANGE ROVER Td6 x1 - RANGE ROVER Classic 3.5L V8 x1

27th May 2020 11:28pm

Haylands

Member Since: 04 Mar 2014
Location: East Yorkshire
Posts: 8189

J, Graphite would probably work but as you say will only be temporary, I removed the park lock mechanism as if it does fail you can't even tow or push the fatty as it will be locked into park... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

28th May 2020 7:35am

p38arover

Member Since: 16 Dec 2015
Location: Western Sydney
Posts: 1523

p38arover wrote:
Good post. I hope I never have to do it.

Funny how something designed for quick assembly on the production line can be a nightmare to disassemble - part of the problem being figuring it out!

Well I did - and I'd forgotten this thread.

I needed to remove the whole centre console to replace the yaw sensor which is bolted to the floor at the back of the console. RAVE leaves out a few steps but it also only covers the HSE - not the Vogue which has a rear blower. This blower is above the yaw sensor and prevents access.

I couldn't get the cubby box liner out because the cigar lighter socket wouldn't release and come out. With it in place the liner cannot be removed. In the end, brute force was required on the cigar lighter socket and the plastic retainer wouldn't come free. Before reassembly, I swapped it with the one in the front of the console (the one opposite the ignition key) which would release.

One can't actually remove the centre console because one can't move it over the handbrake lever. The console needs to be rotated 90 degrees (horizontally) to be able to do that. One can't rotate it unless one removes the seats. Not mentioned in RAVE. Gaaah..

In the end, I gave up on removal and lifted the rear of the console up just enough to be able to get a 1/4" drive socket/ratchet in to loosen the nuts then used my fingertips to slowly work the bolts out. I had to use a magnet to retrieve the bolts. I was then able to wiggle the sensor out.

Getting the replacement back in was a struggle as was using my fingertips to get the bolts in and started.

In the end, the yaw sensor wasn't the problem even though the diagnostic software (Faultmate, GAP IID, and T4) all said it was faulty. It was the ABS module. Ron B. VK2OTC
2003 L322 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA

Last edited by p38arover on 11th Jul 2023 4:32am. Edited 1 time in total

24th Aug 2021 1:39am

mazza7282

Member Since: 10 May 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 99

I forgot I even wrote this

I did try to remove the centre console a bit more but as you mention was not easy with the seats in the way.
I recently removed a centre console on my E46 330CI and was able to twist and turn and get over the handbrake in order to remove the centre console fully (even removing that console was similar to the L322) so much shared across the group at the time.

Reminds me of a Land Rover Evogue I saw at Dunsford Land Rover Museum that had a the bmw step auto shifter fitted during testing. Even the Dashboard was BMW until final release !

My L322 has been parked up for year under a cover so who knows that state that will be in to start up. I'll definitely be going through pre ignition testing before fireing the old girl up again, clearing whatever code show, steering angle sensor bla bla bla (battery should still be good as its been disconnected but ill add an optimate to it 24/48 hours in advance. Current Fleet

FF L322 2.9TD6 SE
BMW e46 330ci Msport
Skoda Superb TDI Mk2, stage 1
Audi A3 8P 2.0 T 4x4, stage 2
Yamaha R6 13S
Triumph Thruxton R
Sold, but not forgotten

WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee V8

24th Aug 2021 9:46pm

stuart_2006

Member Since: 17 Jul 2018
Location: Holsworthy, Devon
Posts: 125

2006 Range Rover Vogue Td6 Zermatt Silver

Just replaced the ignition switch contacts on my TD6 as power wasn't coming through properly in the AUX position. A few notes on Mazza's excellent procedure:

-- Disconnect the battery first!
-- Get some cloths to stuff into the apertures by the handbrake and gear stick - there are lots of screws to remove which are easily dropped, never to see to light of day again.
-- Also need to remove the two screws between the front ashtray/coinholder and gear stick - as seen in the photo in step 8.
-- Step 21 - the two trim panels are held by a pair of clips about half way down the front of the panel - work a couple of fingers under the bottom front corner of the panels and give a tug towards the door.
-- Once the ignition switch was free, I had trouble removing the ignition lock cable and the two small wiring harnesses, so I left those connected and just removed the two small grub screws which enables the switch section to be simply pulled off the end. No need to go poking a pin anywhere.

The switch section comes apart fairly easily, to reveal six contact breakers operated by cams on the spindle - see photo below. I couldn't see any burning or pitting of the contacts on my switch, and I suspect I could have re-faced the contacts with some fine emery to resolve the problem I had if I had known beforehand how the switch was designed.

10th Jul 2023 5:05pm

Merchy

Member Since: 14 Feb 2021
Location: North Wales
Posts: 1180

Having used this excellent 'how to' guide a while back to change my failed ignition switch, the only other tips I would add to Stuart_2006's additional tips are -

Use a large piece of cardboard, and at each stage of the process, once removed, stick the fasteners into the cardboard and write on it where they are removed from, no mix ups upon re-fitting

If possible plan ahead so the job does not have to be carried out on the driveway when the ambient temp is about minus 4/5 degrees, it's a fiddly job, I had to thaw out my fingers twice to keep the job going

Magnetise the screwdriver / tool tips to help reduce that familiar 'where the did that screw go'

10th Jul 2023 6:00pm

mazza7282

Member Since: 10 May 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 99

stuart_2006 wrote:
Just replaced the ignition switch contacts on my TD6 as power wasn't coming through properly in the AUX position. A few notes on Mazza's excellent procedure:

-- Disconnect the battery first!
-- Get some cloths to stuff into the apertures by the handbrake and gear stick - there are lots of screws to remove which are easily dropped, never to see to light of day again.
-- Also need to remove the two screws between the front ashtray/coinholder and gear stick - as seen in the photo in step 8.
-- Step 21 - the two trim panels are held by a pair of clips about half way down the front of the panel - work a couple of fingers under the bottom front corner of the panels and give a tug towards the door.
-- Once the ignition switch was free, I had trouble removing the ignition lock cable and the two small wiring harnesses, so I left those connected and just removed the two small grub screws which enables the switch section to be simply pulled off the end. No need to go poking a pin anywhere.

The switch section comes apart fairly easily, to reveal six contact breakers operated by cams on the spindle - see photo below. I couldn't see any burning or pitting of the contacts on my switch, and I suspect I could have re-faced the contacts with some fine emery to resolve the problem I had if I had known beforehand how the switch was designed.

Thanks for the added steps on the guide 👍. I'll have to add that in the wiki at some point. For
ease of use, I will say definately disconnect the battery first 👍.

Unfortunately my range rover has rusted itself to bits, I wasnt able to keep up with all the rust. Despite the rear arches and various other welding jobs that have been done in the past. So I had to let it go as a spares or repairs on ebay. I covered this in a seperate thread some time ago.

For now I have a "slightly" less rusty Shogun that I am using as a tow vehicle, absaloutely zero luxury but it goes the job, & its 7 seats ! Current Fleet

FF L322 2.9TD6 SE
BMW e46 330ci Msport
Skoda Superb TDI Mk2, stage 1
Audi A3 8P 2.0 T 4x4, stage 2
Yamaha R6 13S
Triumph Thruxton R
Sold, but not forgotten

WJ Jeep Grand Cherokee V8

10th Jul 2023 8:28pm

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