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fanders Member Since: 10 Jul 2013 Location: Hants, UK Posts: 318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Yes, I was very lucky to find such a good example, I think the previous owner must have really looked after it (how many owners cavity wax the sills, if I’m right in thinking they don’t come from the factory with wax inside?). There are a lot out there with rusty sills and rear arches now, including my now-scrapped TDV8, it is a real weak spot on the L322.
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DrRob Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Petersfield, Hampshire Posts: 4318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Can you reuse the sill fasteners to put it all back together or do you need new ones?
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fanders Member Since: 10 Jul 2013 Location: Hants, UK Posts: 318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I just reused the plastic fasteners and wheel arch liners. The sill trims have a lower row of about nine two-part plastic fixings (centre stud comes out to release pressure on the main part), with one screw-in one at the rear end. The upper side of the sill trims have a similar number of push-fit plastic clips that release when you pull the trim off the sill. I was lucky not to break anything, although I had a set of spares from the old car.
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DrRob Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Petersfield, Hampshire Posts: 4318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks!
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fanders Member Since: 10 Jul 2013 Location: Hants, UK Posts: 318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You just prise the centre portion outwards slightly, a thin screwdriver is useful to get it started before then using a trim removal tool to pull it fully out. I have a set of these trim removal tools, they were cheap but surprisingly good quality:
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DrRob Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Petersfield, Hampshire Posts: 4318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Cheers fanders |
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DrRob Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Petersfield, Hampshire Posts: 4318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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fanders Member Since: 10 Jul 2013 Location: Hants, UK Posts: 318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
That’s a good summary, nice find. I left the new forward trim short at the 12 o’clock position where the flange has a step, and just gave the small area still exposed a good coating of grease - looks neater. He also didn’t show cavity waxing the inside of the sills, which is also worth doing.
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DrRob Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Petersfield, Hampshire Posts: 4318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Few of us a recording tips over here:
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sumshiftyguy Member Since: 12 Mar 2020 Location: London Posts: 36 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I'm hoping to do this job in the next week or so. Have stocked up on Waxoyl and Hammerite paint having used Matt's video as reference but forgot about getting something to spray inside the still cavities. Would a single 750ml can of Dynax S50 be sufficient for both sides?
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DrRob Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Petersfield, Hampshire Posts: 4318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Probably one will be enough but until I do mine I can’t be 100%. I bought 2.
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sumshiftyguy Member Since: 12 Mar 2020 Location: London Posts: 36 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Will do, thank you! |
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fanders Member Since: 10 Jul 2013 Location: Hants, UK Posts: 318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Had a rest day on the current Alps gliding trip so took the Rangie up to the summit of Mt. Ventoux:
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fanders Member Since: 10 Jul 2013 Location: Hants, UK Posts: 318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Well the Rangie performed beautifully on last week's Alps gliding trip, down to Serres in the southern French Alps, covering 1,600miles at 17mpg. It's a fabulous area and a great place to start alpine glider flights from:
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