Hi folks, I'm reviewing options to eventually replace my trusty 2002 L322 TD6 which has given sterling service for almost 10 yrs.

An L405 is the natural progression and I suppose I'd like really one rather than go for a later model L322.

The 3.0 will have ample power for my needs. Reliability an longevity are obviously of interest and I do accept after 5 Range Rovers that periodic issues are to be expected and dealt with. Without focussing purely on any bad news stories, my research has lead to accounts of issues on the TDV6 / SDV6 engines i.e. Crankshaft issues with shells spinning out of situ, blocked oilways and seized engines. However the accounts seem mainly affiliated with Discovery and RR Sport models rather that the full fat L405.

In essence I'm seeking advice / experience from the forum on whether this is an actual issue on the L405.

Also in terms if Cambelt change could anyone advise on the correct interval for the 3.0 TDV6.

I understand that the TDV6 is a single turbo, without particulate filter which was then superseded by the SDV6 which featured twin sequential turbos etc.

Apologies for my ignorance, just seeking to improve my knowledge before jumping in ! Current
2016 MY L405 SDV8
2018 VW Golf GT EVO
2001 BMW Z3 2.2
Previous
2002 L322 TD6
2004 Mercedes R230 SL350
1994 993 Carrera
Range Rover P38 x3
Range Rover 3.9 EFI

Up until a year a year or so back I owned an L322 TD6 which I bought new and it was a fantastic motor. I can honestly say in 14 years I didn't have to have any works carried out other than routine servicing and one recall. Moving on to my current used L405 AB there's been quite a few issues which I'm gradually sorting out and I'm determined to get things right. Mine's an SDV8 so I can't comment on the V6, however there are quite a few common problems not related to the engine. This is my seventh FFRR over twenty plus years so I'm not new to the animal but I am a bit disappointed with certain aspects. Having owned many new and used cars over the years, the new ones seem to have been relatively trouble free but used ones have generally had problems so I can only assume this boils down to hard use of the car / lack of servicing by previous owners so thorough research is vital.

well, I can't comment on reliability aspects of the 3.0 TDV6 L405 but I can give these viewpoints.

I currently have a 2015 4.4 SDV8 which I thought was pretty good to drive (when it worked!). I had always ignored the 3.0 thinking it would be under powered and inferior in most driving ways, that is until last week.

My own car in the dealership AGAIN for repairs and LR assist provide me with a facelift late 2018 3.0 TDV6 and to be honest I have been blown away by the car and can't believe how much difference 3 years of fine tuning the model has made....and not just in the engine capability.

The loan car feels quicker, is more economical, the drive is silky smooth, gear changes almost imperceptible. The suspension is fantastic - swallows the bumps but holds the road surprising well for a big car when thrown around bends, The engine seems quieter too. The only area my car seems to be better than the newer car even with the 3 year age difference is wind noise. For some reason - don't know why, my car seems more protected from wind noise - perhaps the facelift models are noisier? (both are autobiographies btw).

The 3.0 has impressed me that much that as and when I change car, and assuming I stick with LR, I would defo now consider the 3.0 TDV6. - the power and economy make it very tempting.

to add my 2peneth...

I see many D4's, many RRS's and NOT so many FFRR's being serviced in our local MOT centre. Evert time, they fill the engine with the "usual generic oil" pumped from the tank out the back!

The oil necessary for the 3.0 is absolutely critical and needs to be the correct specification WSS-M--------- If the wrong oil is used there is a coagulation issue and this can & does block small oil journals in the engine! I have discussed this many times with friends in the trade & JLR employee's... We all hold the same view!

So... If anyone owns a DPF'd engine 3.0 or 4.4 for that matter! Check & double check that the correct oil is being used! Its VERY important!

The key to any engine long term viability is clean oil , I am changing mine every 6,000 miles along with the filter , plus change the fuel filter and 2 x air filters every 3rd oil change . Use Shell helix ultra professional af-l .

You would be shocked at how horrible the used oil looks and feels after 6k , personally I feel the 16K service intervals are way to long .

I 100% agree with Craig and Charlie in the 2 previous posts.
I change my oil and filter twice a year even though when it was due last month it had only done 4K miles.
It is still dirty black when I do it, even at these intervals, but the sheer number of very similarly named Oils demands being very carefully when buying new oil.
Like Charlie I use Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF- L. In my 4.4 td v8 the AF -L is important to double check.

Click image to enlarge

And even if you order Shell Helix Ultra, they still have something like 30 different types/grades!!! A mine field!

I change oil and filter every 5K km and she is running better now (140K km later) then when i bought her with 78K km.
I use Mobil 1 5W-30, it costs ~ 5 Pounds per liter if you buy in bulk.


 2012 TDV8 Black Edition
2000 Disco. TD5
1975 series III

I know use engine oil flush every change (on my 3.6 tdv8 L322). It makes a difference to keeping the oils clean for longer. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow