Thanks Phil.
Autogearboxes.co.uk quotes £1320 ex.Vat. to remanufacture the transmission. Not including TCU warranty.
This it approx. 1/3 of what the locals here demand.
Will try to confirm the part numbers with the ebay sellers.
If anyone knows of other transmissions for sale, please let me know. 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

Gearbox with 100k miles ordered from ebay and is currently on its way to Autogearboxes.co.uk in Sussex.
They qouted me £200 to ship it over to Norway when finished.

Anything I should attend to when having the gearbox removed? Parts to order? Bits to inspect? 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

Check the flexplate (flywheel equivalent on an Auto) for cracks which is the main reason I took my gearbox off as I was getting an annoying ticking noise.
Check the rear main seal behind the flexplate (crankshaft seal on the back of the engine) for signs of leaking. Mine had a tiny bit which you would expect after 100k miles and wasn't really a problem...I replaced it anyway.
I also replaced the input shaft seal on the gearbox but if you are getting a re-manufactured box then you shouldn't have to worry about that.
Basically check for any other leaks from the various hoses and seals you would have a hard time getting to normally.

Autogearboxes should do you fine...they are actually next door to Sussex Auto Parts and part of the same company, Autogearboxes are basically the installation/fitting arm of Sussex Auto Parts and it's them who will likely manufacture the units.

Thanks Weejock,

From what I can tell by the workshop manual, the following should also be replaced.
- 1 pcs Transfer case o-ring seal (on the shaft?)
- 2 pcs Transmission oil cooler line o-rings
- 8 pcs transfer case bolts
- 4 pcs flexplate bolts
- 12 pcs driveshaft bolts

It also mentiones a TC installer tool (307-497) too, but I'm not sure if I'll need it. 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

The tool, according to the workshop manual, is used to give something to grab onto in order to remove and install the torque converter onto the gearbox.
If you are getting a new TC with your gearbox it should come ready installed on it and secured in place for transport so no need for the tool (and arguably if you are careful installing you don't need it anyway). When installing the new gearbox just make sure that the TC is fully home into the box as it could prove expensive if not, keep the transport bolts/strap holding the TC in place on until the actual install. If a garage is doing it then they should know what to do.

Seals on the other ends are also worth checking although I can't remember if I changed the output seal on mine as it wasn't giving any problems. A new box should have new seals anyway.
I took the gearbox and transfer case off together as one unit which was a big mistake doing it on my own even with a gearbox lift cradle. I split them on the ground and reinstalled them separately, much easier!
The Transfer Case o-ring on mine wasn't a problem and I probably re-used it, I seem to remember it doesn't really have to do much (that's on a 5HP24, yours might be slightly different). It certainly showed no signs of leaking and if it did at a later date removing just the Transfer Case is pretty easy. Up to you of you want to change it, worth having a spare one just in case anyway...I wasn't planning on taking the Transfer Case off the gearbox so didn't have one to hand but if it needed it I would have got one.
Oil cooler o-rings are worth doing just because if they do leak then it's a bit of pain to sort the fluid out again and they only cost pence anyway....like wise with any washers on banjo bolts, they need renewing if undone anyway.
I think I used new flexplate bolts as I would usually do with any flywheel removal as they get a fair amount of torque applied over a short thread length so can stretch but other bolts I re-used.
Of course if the manual says you should replace stuff then best to do it for peace of mind, it really depends on the individual, I make a judgement call on the application and loading etc. and decide but that's me.
This was all on a 5HP24 so not your transmission and which a did probably 5 years ago so memory of it not the best, the principles are the same on any autobox though.

P.S. If not done so then probably worth replacing the transmission oil cooler and even the radiator at the same time (if the radiator is also part of the transmission oil cooler heat exchanger system). I know some places won't warranty a box if it's not renewed at the same time which is understandable if the original box died from overheating.
I replaced both of mine but that was prior to doing the Torque Converter.

Appreciate the in-depth reply.

I'll be doing all the work myself. Initially wanted to do the transmission rebuild as well, but don't want the down time on the car. Maybe I'll have an attempt on the old transmission.

Good advice on taking off the Transfer Box first. I see the manual states to remove them together, but if possible to remove separately, I think that'll make the job a lot easier.

Is the transmission oil cooler really an issue on these? I've tried to find topics describing this problem, but couldn't find any. Mostly just 4.4 tdv8 oil coolers. As far as I am aware, the current transmission never had overheat issues. 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway

While it’s out give the transfer box a once over. Check the main mating seal in the middle where the 2 halves. If the box meet. These can weep, also check the bolt on bits such as the hi lo pos sensor aren’t weeping oil. Much easier to swap out when they are off the car. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

Removing the Transfer Box certainly makes life easier as I found out after the event!
As the main mass of the Transfer Box is offset from the centre line of the transmission it means the whole lot wants to rotate and fall off any jacks you use if you take them off as a combined unit...and they are bloody heavy combined!
Doable if they are a couple of people with decent workshop lifting gear but if you are tackling it on your own then a lot easier to take the Transfer Box off first. I underestimated how much the combined units would want to rotate to find the centre of gravity and the result wasn't pretty...at least it had a soft landing when it slipped off the last 8ins of the jack to the ground...trouble was the soft landing was my body and I ended up pinned to the ground! Just managed to wiggle free.
I ended up splitting it and buying a transmission jack to put it back in after the struggle of taking it off.

Another tip which hopefully will still apply to the diesel is to take the whole exhaust off in one go, just unbolt at the downpipes and undo all the hangers and lower the whole lot to the ground. Just make sure you leave enough room to remove it out the back (so a car length behind free, if doing it in a standard size garage just drive in forwards) as it won't go forward under the vehicle as the tail pipes are wider than the wheelbase! The TDV8 might be different though, certainly heavier if it has DPF etc.

As for the cooler, replacing is just an insurance policy. I wouldn't want to spend out £1500+ on a new transmission only to find out later that it's overheating and been killed for the sake of not changing a £200 part. You'll find most companies providing replacement autoboxes won't offer a warranty unless it's replaced because it's possible it's what's killed it in the first place (or at least shortened it's life).
In most cases it's not the transmission oil side of the cooler that is the issue, it's the water/coolant side that'll cause problems especially when they use the bottom section of the radiator as the heat exchanger. Where does all the crud and 'silt' settle in a radiator...at the bottom. If it's getting on for 100k miles and neither have been touched then I would say it's best to replace the radiator and transmission oil cooler if you are planning on keeping it, entirely up to you though.

I received the remanufactured transmission a couple weeks ago, and it came with a bottle of transmission flush to use on the oil cooler. Will replace the transmission cooler thermostat when replacing the transmission.

I also received a few photos from the repair, in case anyone were curious as to how they look inside after 110k miles.

Cant wait to get this badboy installed.

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Transmission installed. Details here: https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post523984.html

I don't think it fixed the vibration mentioned earlier in the thread, between 1900 and 2400 RPM, so surely one could rule out the torque converter/Transmission. Could it be tired injectors? 2007 L322 3.6 TDV8 Stornoway