Hi everybody,
RR l322 Vogue 2004
I have looked at past threads but can't find any answers, sorry to be starting new one.
My DSP unit will not 'sleep' I am getting .5amp discharge. Not as high as many of you have suffered but still enough for battery drain and starting problems after 2/3 days.
Everything else is sleeping ok. Tested the Sat Nav. MK 4 Radio BM54, CD Player and TV all of them sleep after few minutes.
I can disconnect all of those units individually but does not make any difference to the .5amp discharge. They do of course 'spike the discharge when reconnected but settles down again to .5amp when they 'sleep'.
The only way to get down to .001 amp sleeping is to disconnect the 16 pin plug on DSP. Diagrams of this plug show that one of the pins is a live battery feed to the unit. So I am assuming this feed is not 'sleeping.
I can take out the DSP and send it away for repair or replace it but if the sleep mode is not internal to the unit it will be a waste of time and money.
I have very little knowledge of electronics ( they say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing) For instance does the IBus initiate sleep mode and if it does how come the fault is confined to the DSP. I am sure one of you experts will know if 'sleep' is internal to the unit or another system causes the shut down.
All of the functions of the DSP work fine, that is the Radio, Sat Nav, CD Player and TV. Are there another functions that are turning off causing the DSP not to sleep?
I have tried 2 new batteries (110amp/hrs) the RR is A Japanese import so all of the units have been replaced or converted to UK Spec including a new rear systems loom for UK systems..
Everything has been working OK for months and still all works OK except for this .5amp Drain
Any suggestions will be very appreciated. Thanks.

Me again,
I forgot to mention that this vehicle is is excellent condition ( due to climate where it has lived) and does not have any water ingress or dampness in rear quarter and all the units in that location are like new with perfectly clean connections.

Thanks

Despite you car having no signs of water ingress I would still be inclined to remove the dsp and take its case off to see if there are any signs of corrosion in there. Not uncommon.

^^^ Agreed

My Satnav was doing the same thing, looked fine on the outside, but the PCB was a mess! Some contact cleaner and a toothbrush resolved the issue.

Thank you both for your replies,
Yes I have already removed the DSP and checked inside by removing both covers. There is absolutely no signs of water/corrosion. It is totally dry and the original shellac/coating shows no signs of lifting on any of the circuit boards.I have however left it open in a dry warm area for a few days to dry out in case of dampness.
I have previously seen problems with these units when wet/damp but that normally causes a malfunction to sat nav or speaker distortion/failure. This one is working perfectly and operating everything as normal, but just will not sleep and is drawing .5amps

My real problem is not knowing what puts it to sleep. If the sleep function is built into the unit I can just get it repaired, but I kinda suspect there is another system within the car to put the various units into sleep mode.
However I could be very wrong about that because watching an amp meter connected to battery not everything sleeps at same time. For instance the sat nav does closed down and sleeping while other units are still going through a sleep cycle. There is clearly a gradual amp drop as each unit closes down.
Not sure if I am making sense but that would indicate that all 'sleeping' units have an independent 'close down' system, in which case the fault would be in the DSP.

PS Joe 90 love your new RR

You are indeed correct all the ecus progressively shut down. I'm not even sure that they do it in any particular order, it seems to be quite random.
Before you do anything with the dsp, can I suggest you have a look below it and below the tv module and see if there happens to be a small box just lying there with two blue plugs connected to it about the size of a packet of cigarettes. Might say something like "Connects 2" on it.
The box was part of the original car telephone system.
If it is there unplug the two blue plugs and connect them together, they are m/f and then go and check for current drain again.
This box was the cause of my significant current drain some years ago, once removed never had a problem since.
The box tends to be redundant now with the advent of smart phones etc.

Thanks a lot,
That makes a lot of sense, I will try that and report back with the result. ( It might help someone else in the future)
I was not sure but it did seemed more likely that there was an 'in car' shut down process, rather then built in to individual units.
I have been in transport management all my working life mainly lorries and buses but my mechanical apprenticeship was served with Austin/Morris just about the time the original Minis were introduced early 1960's.. Long time since I was 'on the tools' We even changed Lorry tyres with tyre levers and the heels of Heavy Boots.
I can remember when cars had adjusters for the steering box and ball joints. My first LR was a series 2a in 1973 and "slightly" easier to work on.
Modern car electronics are well beyond my knowledge. But I do understand the mechanical principles of modern cars.

Smart Phones!!! What are they???? I still use a camera to take photos and a BT line at home and a Nokia 610 as a mobile.
But at least I can throw the Nokia at people that annoy me and it will still works.(I would use an Emoji here if I know how)

Thanks for your advise