Car left for five days not long after fitting new battery
Would not unlock with remote, key worked, but could not turn ignition
Put on charger for 36 hours (only got two lights on the Ctek 5 initially and took 7 hours to get to four)
(battery drain issue to be dealt with separately)

Initially car unlocked using remote, started and ran fine (only issues were clock at funny time (date was OK), fuel gauge not reading correctly, but it caught up with itself after a few miles of driving)

After this could not lock/unlock the car using the remote.
Central locking works fine from centre console button and key
(note alarm does not go off when unlocking?)
Interior lights all come on as expected/usual
Little red light on remote OK
Only have the one key
Tried the key syncro routine a few times to no avail
Need to plug in IIdTool/AllComms to see if somehow I have gone into Transport mode?

Any other suggestions ? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Last edited by Joe90 on 21st May 2018 11:12am. Edited 1 time in total

battery reset and replace remote battery, or buy a new FF..  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

Disconnecting battery tomorrow, so we will see, also have a new fob battery so will install that too  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Neither battery disconnect or new battery in fob has made any difference.... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

auto sparky is needed...................... i know you like to do every thing your self tho joe good look

Hi,

Had the same issue with my 2004, I changed the small aerial that sits in the tailgate by the wiper motor looking like a old music cassette.

All I had to do then was to resync the keys.

Hope this may be of some help.

Stuart. 2004 4.4 Vogue.
2003 Mini Cooper S
1998 Triumph Speed triple
1999 Honda Blackbird CBR1100XX.
1981 Yamaha XS1100.

Good one stwid!

Ran through config with the IIDTool today, both central locking remotely options were marked as inactive! Changed them but still no joy.

Could be a case of calling WBAC.com ! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Mine did that after I had been tinkering. Turned out to be a blown fuse. Test the receiver for voltage ( the cassette like thing in tailgate). If no power then probably the fuse. Not sure where exactly but it's in the rear fuse box. 2007 Vogue TDV8 in Zermatt Silver with Charcoal

After a recent flat battery I had to resynch the keys to the BCU. Not a complex task, but it doesnt always seem to register the key and I had to try dozens of times and over three days before I got a key to synch again. A real flaky process. Might be worth persevering.

Best of luck
Mark

Thanks for the tips, will hopefully get to the bottom of things over the weekend .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

RESULT!

Decided to have another go with the key reprogramming routine

Took 5/6 goes but eventually the BCM locked and unlocked the car.

Remote locking and unlocking working again

Thanks all for help and advice

For reference, here is the reprogramming procedure in full:

##########################################

FFRR

Reset Procedure for your key fobs

Every signal from the remote handset contains the transmitter identification code and a rolling code. The BCU checks the codes and only responds if the signal is from a valid transmitter. During vehicle production, the remote handsets supplied with the vehicle are initialised to set their individual transmitter identification codes and synchronise their
respective rolling codes with the BCU. If a transmitter loses synchronisation with the BCU, or if a replacement or additional remote handset is to be used with the vehicle, the initialisation procedure must be repeated. During the procedure, all remote handsets for use with the vehicle must be initialised.

Initialisation Procedure

1 Ensure the vehicle is unlocked and the driver and front passenger doors are closed.

2 Install a key/remote handset in the ignition switch, then turn the ignition switch
to position I and back to position 0 in less than 5 seconds to put the BCU into the
initialisation mode. Continue the procedure within 30 seconds of turning the ignition
switch to position 0.

3 Remove the key/remote handset from the ignition switch.

4 Press and hold the unlock button for a maximum of 15 seconds. During this time,
momentarily press the lock button three times within 10 seconds.

5 Release both buttons.

6 Successful initialisation is indicated by the BCU locking then unlocking the vehicle.
If this does not occur, repeat step 4.

7 Repeat steps 4 and 5 with all other remote handsets belonging to the vehicle (4 maximum).

Begin the initialisation of each remote handset within 30 seconds of completing the previous
initialisation, or the BCU will drop out of the initialisation mode and the complete
procedure will have to be started again

########################################## .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Did you get this to work consistently or was it still a pain? I'll have another go at some point and see if I can get both keys working. Presently it is one or the other.

As I say, took 6 or 7 goes, key to position 1 a couple of times, making sure lock button pressed three times inside 15 seconds etc.

Only have the one key... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Excellent, worked first time for me after flat battery.
Only thing to add is that the led on the remote flashed for several seconds after doors locked and unlocked.
Thanks Joe
Mine gave alarm after opening door with key.

Winter is approaching here in the great south land and all old batteries are dying. Our daughter's Toyota Rav 4, my partner's VW Golf and my L322 remote key fobs all quit within a week. All 3 use the same battery - 20mm diameter, 1.6mm thick, 3.4 volt (nominal) lithium cell - aka 2016 coin cell. The Rav and VW retained settings during change over, but not the Range Rover. So, on to the wiki to read the re-sync instructions. After failing a few times I did some research and here is the result -

L322 Keys have 3 lock systems
1 - The mechanical match of the cut will release the tumblers in the driver side door and the ignition lock.
2 - Detecting (within ~30mm) a valid Radio Frequency IDentity (RFID) chip embedded in a key will release the ignition lock latch.
3 - A 433MHz wireless transmitter in each key fob will send codes to the Body Control Module (BCM).
While most of the world uses 433MHz for remote unlocking the US uses 315MHz ...

The mechanical key cut is easy to defeat. That is why the Radio Frequency IDentity system was added.
A set of RFIDs (8-10) is stored in the BCM at the factory. The first 2 match the chips inside the keys initially supplied, and only Range Rover keeps a copy of the other codes. Replacement keys need a valid RFID chip inside, either physically moved from the old key or supplied (by Range Rover) on purchase of additional keys.
However a tech savvy locksmith can overwrite codes stored in the BCM to match new RFIDs or copy a code from the BCM to a writable RFID chip. For a large fee. Why? Because the BCM has to be taken from under the centre console to the locksmiths electronics workshop, pulled apart, the memory chip accessed with an in-circuit clamp and ... so on.

Note - an AK90+ EWS reader/writer can be got for $20 these days, so the locksmith cost can be reduced to just the cost of the mechanical cut if you do the rest diy.

Besides the RFID # the Body Control Module also stores a list of valid key fob transmitter IDs and calculates a new access code for each fob every time it receives a key press message from that fob. All remote key fobs also calculate the same new access code (unique to themselves) ready for the next key press. The remote may be pressed when out of range so that its calculated code may get 'out of sync' with the access codes that the BCM calculates.
To accommodate this the BCM always calculates ~100 concecutive new access codes and accepts them all. It then re-adjusts to a matching access code so that it stays 'in sync' with each key fob.

But sometimes the key fob will get more than 100 codes out of sync. This can happen when a grand kid plays with your keys or the battery goes flat and the key fob 'forgets' the current code (or re-boots to start from some default value). Also a drowned or corroded (destroyed) transmitter may also be replaced with a new one. In each case the BCM can still be re-synced to the key fob's current access code by sending a special sequence of button presses from the fob. BUT the re-sync re-writes the entire key fob data table, so all existing keys need to be re-synced whenever this procedure is done.


Step 1 - setup 'standard conditions'
Key operator in driver's seat
All doors closed
All doors un-locked

Step 2 - initialize BCM to re-sync mode
Put a valid key into ignition lock
Turn key to I (accessories) - this can only happen if the key's RFID is stored in the BCM
Turn key to 0 (off) within 5 seconds (any longer cancels re-sync mode)
Remove key from ignition lock

Step 3 - send re-sync sequence
Hold key at face level (receive antenna is at this height)
Hold down un-lock button, wait till send LED flashes at least twice
Press and release lock button 3 times - the LED will NOT flash
Release the un-lock button - the LED will NOT flash,
If successful all doors will lock then unlock.
Both the transmitter ID and the new (next) access codes are stored in the BCM's temporary memory.

Repeat Step 3 for every key fob. Step 3 has a time limit of 30s per key. Over-running any timeout
will part cancel re-sync mode. Remember, ALL keys need to re-sync in the one procedure, 30s each -
if any key fails to sync go back and do step 2 twice (once to fully cancel re-sync mode and once to
re-start it) then steps 3 & 4. Missed keys will be waaaay out of sync.

Step 4 - write changes to BCM permanent memory
Put the key (that was used to start the session) into ignition lock (MUST be same RFID as Step 2)
Turn key to I (accessories) - this must be done before the last Step 3 30s times out.
Turn key to 0 (off)
Remove key from ignition lock
All done. Test all keys.

Note - badly worn conductive contacts or plastic buttons on a key fob can cause the re-sync to fail because they don't make contact, or prematurely release a button, or send multiple presses for one user press, etc. This was where my problem was, but a little bit of "shoe glue" applied to certain points inside the key fob plastic buttons restored clean, clear key presses and the key synced first time.
Besides the plastic button wearing the actual conductive coating that the button presses against the circuit board also wears away over time. There is very little you can do to fix this except by replacing it. The good news is that a replacement plastic sheet with a new conductive contact dimple is included with most ebay button and fob kits.

Note - a key without a RFID chip is still able to unlock the door, but can't start the engine. Useful if the 'real' key accidentally gets locked in.

By-the-way the RFID chip in the key is used by the BCM for all the other luxury touches like individual seat position, outside mirror positions, gear changing preferences, etc.

bye. 2003 TD6, EGR delete, vortex crankcase breather update, performance chip, UHF 2 way, Android head unit, crash camera on dash, always-on rear view camera to mirror screen, LED DRL`s, Electric trailer brake controller. FSR replaced. Pulling 3T caravan all about Australia

Last edited by bgennette on 16th Mar 2020 3:12am. Edited 2 times in total