Lots of post about fluid changes at present (Diffs, Transfer Box, Power Steering etc).

I've done the rear Diff and will do the Transfer Box but was wondering if in reality, it is easy to do the steering fluid or not?

I've found this past thread which is if interest but not a 'how to':
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic3685.h...ring+fluid

I've not found a 'how to' on the Wiki yet.

And the workshop manual guide, to me at least, daunts me a bit/ certainly doesn't sound as easy as the rear diff oil change, for example:
http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/rang...ring_gear/

Thanks in anticipation

I did mine on Wednesday like so:

You need two people, one to start and stop the engine the other to do the dirty bits....

Take off front engine cover.

Get yourself a 2 litre bottle (I used an old coke bottle). This will be used to collect all of the old fluid.

Get your new PAS fluid ready with lids off and within reach.

Put a rag or something to catch any spillages from hitting the alternator below.

Now on the right hand side of the PAS pump, there is a hose clamped onto the plastic reservoir. This is the return feed. Undo the clamp.

Pull the pipe off and be ready to stop the flow of PAS fluid from the reservoir with your finger/thumb. Place the hose into the empty bottle, it should sit nicely in the engine bay just to the side of the PAS pump on the chassis leg.

Now be ready to fill the reservoir and keep filling as this next bit happens fast.

Whilst you're filling the reservoir get your helper to start the engine (DO NOT REV THE ENGINE AT ALL), let it idle and be prepared to turn off as soon as you tell them too.

Keep filling with fluid until you see the right colour / new fluid coming into the bottle (new fluid is green if you have the correct Land Rover Fluid). Switch off the engine.

Reconnect the hose to the reservoir and top up the fluid.

Start the engine and turn the steering from lock to lock to bleed the system. Make sure you keep checking the fluid level whilst doing this to make sure you do not run it dry.

Mop up any spillages, remove rag above alternator, refit engine cover etc

Job done


One slight difference i did, as i had two separate 1L bottles of fluid i had to get my helper to switch off whilst i changed bottles over. If you can decant the fluid into something else first it may well be easier.

Smighall, thanks very much for that really helpful reply.

I'll have a good look at it all later and stand by for some more daft questions

Cheers.

Was your old fluid very mucky sir? Was there any other issues or reasons for doing the change?

Mine was horrible and brown. Steering was very heavy after driving and then stationary aswell as a little notch on the move. Changed the servotronic valve first which improved things a little but noticed the colour of the fluid when doing that so thought best to change it.

I guess 107k miles and doubt it's ever been changed. Steering is much better now, still not perfect when stationary but acceptable

Funny how there really seams to be a lack of "usual" maintenance on 322's...

Many things left till 100k and above!!!

Sorry meant to add, "following the guidelines in the service schedule"

Cam-Tech-Craig wrote:

Funny how there really seams to be a lack of "usual" maintenance on 322's...

Many things left till 100k and above!!!

I know this is quite an old thread, but thought I'd chip in with my own experience of changing the power steering fluid this afternoon. My car has done 55k, no problems at all with the steering but I noticed the fluid was brown and decided that a bit of preventative maintenance was in order.

I had no-one to assist, so used this approach: syringe out as much fluid as possible from the header tank (about 250 ml), replace with fresh fluid (Ravenol SSF which is fully synthetic and meets JLR's 14315 spec). Start engine, drive back and forth turning steering wheel fully a couple of times (got puzzled looks from my neighbour!). Stop engine, open bonnet, and repeat (syringe out old, add new etc. etc.).
After about seven cycles the fluid in the header tank was the same colour as fresh new fluid (bright green). In total, I'd used about 1.75 litres of new fluid, with the header tank filled to "max" level. Zero mess, no need to disconnect anything, and cost about £20 (the Ravenol fluid is around £10 per litre).