MOT time, I have decided it’s time to give the ff a bit of love. I have a small amount of play in a lower arm bush so decided to buy a front end kit for it. This included front and rear lower arms and ball joints. Unfortunately on these sort of items I cannot afford genuine parts. While I am there I am fitting new front steel brake pipes ( these are genuine and only 20 quid for both), new flexi hoses and upgrading to 4 pot brembo. As I bought the brembo complete with hubs I have cleaned the hubs up and painted the so the front will look nice and shiny and also means no messing trying to get old stuff stripped. Just brake pipe, bush mount bolts, anti roll bar links (already changed) and cv joint. Then just re-assemble. However ball joints are causing me a worry. These are the ones pressed into the hub and held in with two torn 50 bolts. The old ones were tigh toget out but not that hard as with the hub off could mount in vice. But the new ones just drop in and have a tiny bit of play. Th FF is no lightweight and I am sure the new ones should be a bit tight going back in else 2 1/2 tonnes going around a corner will work it loose and we’ll the consequences of it coming loose are not worth thinking about. I have looked and searched forums and people having issues getting them out but nobody mentioning if they are loose to get back in. Are my hubs damaged from knocking old ball joints out, suppose to be loose or is it just cheap pattern part that is a waste of time?

I bought a pair of cheap ball joints for my 3.6, one was so badly made that the bolt holes didn’t line up properly but I still fitted the other one as I had the old one stripped out. Within weeks the new joint had loads of play in it.
I assumed I was being clever and saving a few quid by getting the same item just without the Landrover packaging and markup - it never crossed my mind that someone would go to the bother of making an obscure part like that ball joint, then make it badly out of materials.
I suggest you get better ball joints

I very rarely buy genuine LR simply because, in line with all other OEM parts, of their comedy pricing regime. I go for OE quality, usually Febi Billstein, Lemforder, Mahle, etc.

Sounds like you could do with something along these lines. I fitted Mahle HD front suspension arms on my FF, no issues at all. Drives:
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue - Stornoway Grey
2010 FFRR TdV8 Vogue SE - Zermatt Silver
1998 BMW E36 M3 GTII

Having done a 100k in a 2004 in 4 years I've long since given up buying anything other than OEM (or genuine when the price difference isn't that much) on suspension components. I had to replace way too many cheap parts in the early days far too soon - false economy unfortunately.

The front end of a RR is so heavy and the forces going through it when cornering etc are great - its just not worth economising on these things. OEM and genuine are made to much more exacting tolerances and better quality materials. The old adage, you get what you pay for is true. Current Fleet:-
2018 Discovery 5 3.0 HSE
2021 Ford Ranger Wildtrack
2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt 5.0 V8
1993 Defender 90 200TDI Pickup

Gone - not forgotten
2016 L405 4.4 SDV8 Vogue SE
2012 L322 4.4 Westminster
2004 L322 4.4 V8 Autobiography LE
2000 P38 RR 4.0 HSE (ex Clarkson test car)

thanks all for your replies, so am I right in thinking the new ball joint should not just drop in the hole and not be a loose fit then. if there was any way I could get genuine I would, I got the whole front end kit for the price of one oem arm, so my thoughts are if they last 2 years and I change every 2 years then I will get 8 years for the same cost? but the arms I am not fussed with as when I remove my old ones I am going to fit new bushes etc to them. it's just as you say such a heavy car a loose ball joint will be too much risk. LR only want 30 each so as the mot is not until March so will do some saving I reckon. but for anyone removing the ball joint for bow long it takes remove the hub. it was fairly easy to knock out with easy access.
gonna see if I can get a refund on the useless ones.

Can we get clarity on which one you are referring to? If you mean the upper ball joint I replaced those not long ago just because. The replacements went it with just hand pressure except for the last couple of mm that the retaining bolts took care of. Didn't have the special tool for removal so about 20 min with an air chisel each side.

yes it is the one with the two retaining Torx 50 bolts. the big stand alone one. I can see the step on the ball joint where i presume it is suppose to tighten up but there is literally no resistance at all. in fact it rattles in the hole probably 0.5mm of free play!!!

I don't like that amount of play. I'd take it to a parts store with a micrometer and compare against a known quality one. If the same then the play is in the spindle.

Worn spindles are my concern too. However the old ones are still tight and I helped break the car they came off and as payment he gave me both front struts brakes and hubs complete. I know that it was fairly low mileage and had original joints. I think I need to get a quality or oem part and check fitment and size. I am not going to continue with these ball joints. Will update once I have new parts sourced.