To be fair I fitted a K&N replacement panel filter element to my S/C.
I know there is a lot of debate about whether this is pointless exercise on a forced induction vehicle, but I personally prefer to pretty much "fit and forget"! Every now and then I will remove the element and dispose of any obstructions such as leaves etc. but I will never have to re-oil this filter nor replace it. My truck will die first!??!
I fit K&N elements/filters to most of my cars....my Jag, Minis and even my old Bowler Tomcat off-roader have them. Yes they are slightly more to buy initially but it is very unlikely that they will ever need replacing so a cost saving in the long run.
Again I bought mine from Chris at Opie Oils. They are only about 5 miles down the road and were very keen to beat the opposition. Personally I always try to buy locally if possible especially if they are good on price!
Cheers,
Ken 55 S/C L322 Zambesi Silver.....GONE!!
56 S/C L322 Java Black......surviving at present...just!
04 N/A 4.2 V8 S Type Jag
1961 reg 3.5 V8 Bowler Tomcat.....Sold
Numerous Classic (rusty!?!) Minis

Hi Has, I assume you have done the gearbox flush and fill by now but just food for thought. I have looked and read regarding a full flush and fill vs the pan and filter drain. Generally what I found is that there are concerns with a full flush in high mileage transmissions dislodging crud that can get in the valve body causing catastrophic failure. Here is my theory. The transmission fluid can only hold so much particulate matter in solution. After that point it will settle and collect in the nooks and crannies. When you full flush you clear out the dirty oil but the crud in the corners stay until the new clean fluid, with its detergent action, disrupts the crud. With a partial flush the mixed old new fluid doesn't have as strong a detergent action and dissolves the crud into solution without big pieces being dislodged. So if the tranny fluid was looking dark and dirty a series of partial drain and fills might be the safe thing to do.

i had the trans flushed last week. and i think the gearbox is smoother now. They reset the adaptations too so it is learning from scratch again. The garage i used do lots of these especially 6 speed ZF's on Discos and RRs

but have done quite a few 8 speed boxes now too. They have adapted things to get around the thermal valve whatsit thingamagig too..(that's a technical description you know.. )

Any way they drained the oil cooler first so that part is empty, then connected an oil cooler from a Disco 4 (8 speed box) into the loop to make a complete circuit again. Flushed the lot through a couple of times etc etc and screwed it all back together.

In my opinion they have done a good quality job and at the end of the day only time will tell! The fluid coming out was so dirty it was unreal (88000 miles) it is now full of clean fresh fluid, got to be an inprovement!! Current: TDV8 (3.6) RRS HSE



Past: TDV8(4.4) Vogue
Discovery 3 Commercial
TDV8(3.6) Vogue
TD6 Vogue
D2 V8 ES
D1 V8 ES
RR Vogue Classic

Stu - IS that the so called "mega Flush" then or just drain, refill, drain refill etc...

Reason is my thread on TC issues and its booked in on Friday for a Mega Flush (£400) - IS the consensus that this type is a bad idea given its dislodging properties..??

Now confused as to what to do - I had the oil and filter changed as a preventative measure about 10,000 miles ago having not had any issues before hand - it did come back smoother to be fair but now 1 year on and i've god the vibrations and rumbles pointing to the TC issue... Ash
------------------------------------------------------
2016 SDV8 AB

I had the mega flush, I can't really advise on these matters! I decided to have this done on the advice of the garage. They are an independent L/R specialist and site sponsor on the Disco 3 forum, so that is what I'm basing everything on.

I am very happy with what I've had done, I hope you feel the same with your decision. Current: TDV8 (3.6) RRS HSE



Past: TDV8(4.4) Vogue
Discovery 3 Commercial
TDV8(3.6) Vogue
TD6 Vogue
D2 V8 ES
D1 V8 ES
RR Vogue Classic

Unnecessary quote removed

Here are my observations and theories. It might help in decision. http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic32847-45.html

Dreckly wrote:

If you speak to Chris at Opie he will look after you. I was talking to him about Lifeguard 6 and Castrol Syntrax for my L322 earlier today. Tell him Ken at Milestone Motorsport recommended him. They apparently will price match and £17.75 is the cheapest I found for Lifeguard 6.
Cheers,
Ken

Got the ebay guy down to £16 with free next day delivery, ordered 7 bottles. Opie didn't have them in stock and they couldn't match the price that far. FYI eBay guy is actually TES Transmissions, genuine big boy gearbox specialists! Bmw E36 328i M Sport Cabriolet
Range Rover Sport Supercharged - Sold
Aston Martin DB9 - Sold
Range Rover L322 Overfinch Supercharged
Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder - One find Day...

Dreckly wrote:

To be fair I fitted a K&N replacement panel filter element to my S/C.
I know there is a lot of debate about whether this is pointless exercise on a forced induction vehicle, but I personally prefer to pretty much "fit and forget"! Every now and then I will remove the element and dispose of any obstructions such as leaves etc. but I will never have to re-oil this filter nor replace it. My truck will die first!??!
I fit K&N elements/filters to most of my cars....my Jag, Minis and even my old Bowler Tomcat off-roader have them. Yes they are slightly more to buy initially but it is very unlikely that they will ever need replacing so a cost saving in the long run.
Again I bought mine from Chris at Opie Oils. They are only about 5 miles down the road and were very keen to beat the opposition. Personally I always try to buy locally if possible especially if they are good on price!
Cheers,
Ken

After doing some reading and due to this piece of extensive research I've stuck to an oem filter:

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html Bmw E36 328i M Sport Cabriolet
Range Rover Sport Supercharged - Sold
Aston Martin DB9 - Sold
Range Rover L322 Overfinch Supercharged
Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder - One find Day...

doclees wrote:

Hi Has, I assume you have done the gearbox flush and fill by now but just food for thought. I have looked and read regarding a full flush and fill vs the pan and filter drain. Generally what I found is that there are concerns with a full flush in high mileage transmissions dislodging crud that can get in the valve body causing catastrophic failure. Here is my theory. The transmission fluid can only hold so much particulate matter in solution. After that point it will settle and collect in the nooks and crannies. When you full flush you clear out the dirty oil but the crud in the corners stay until the new clean fluid, with its detergent action, disrupts the crud. With a partial flush the mixed old new fluid doesn't have as strong a detergent action and dissolves the crud into solution without big pieces being dislodged. So if the tranny fluid was looking dark and dirty a series of partial drain and fills might be the safe thing to do.

Hi Docless

Still haven't managed to do the flush as a) I'm feeling what you're feeling after doing lots of reading, good for newer transmissions, peeps with older transmissions are complaining of failures soon after flush and b) can't find anyone to do the flush and change sump/filter like I want to.

I also called up ZF and spoke to some of their mechanics and authorised centres, they were completely against the full flush. They were like why do you want to do that for? I'm still withholding judgement on the process as it has it's pros and cons.

I'm having the sump filter changed and 7 litres of fluid by my friend who works at LR dealer this weekend like dealer advises on instruction from ZF. If the trans manufacturer says it's the way to go then it's good enough for me!  Bmw E36 328i M Sport Cabriolet
Range Rover Sport Supercharged - Sold
Aston Martin DB9 - Sold
Range Rover L322 Overfinch Supercharged
Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder - One find Day...

comports wrote:

Stu - IS that the so called "mega Flush" then or just drain, refill, drain refill etc...

Reason is my thread on TC issues and its booked in on Friday for a Mega Flush (£400) - IS the consensus that this type is a bad idea given its dislodging properties..??

Now confused as to what to do - I had the oil and filter changed as a preventative measure about 10,000 miles ago having not had any issues before hand - it did come back smoother to be fair but now 1 year on and i've god the vibrations and rumbles pointing to the TC issue...

Ash where are you getting it done and why is it so much, everyone I've spoken to charge £250? Bmw E36 328i M Sport Cabriolet
Range Rover Sport Supercharged - Sold
Aston Martin DB9 - Sold
Range Rover L322 Overfinch Supercharged
Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder - One find Day...

Has remember it was ZF that stuck the "Sealed for Life" label to the ZF5hp24 so they have missed the mark before.

Back in 2014 a local so called ‘gearbox specialist’ did a gearbox oil change and the idiot used Dexron 3. He would not believe me when I told him it was wrong and refused to make amends. The dealer I bought the ff off paid for 20 litres of the correct Mobil oil (LT71141) as he had originally asked the ‘specialist ‘ to do the work, and I got my garage to do repeated drains and top ups - by using the full 20 litres I got a 93% ratio of the correct stuff. I’ve done nearly 20,000 miles since then and still going well (currently on 144,000).
I had the dreaded rumble (quite violently at times) originally which prompted the oil change in the first place, it may be time to do it again as a precaution. Current: 2004 Vogue 4.4 V8 - 2004 Discovery 2
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