My local LR mechanic replaced my seized rear diff locking motor since I had a hard time doing it myself. The faults won't clear though because the calibration must be performed. His system is unable to do this calibration and recommended taking it to a dealer.

Before I go spending money at a dealer, can anyone tell me if there is another way? Will the GAP IID Tool perform this calibration? I see it has a calibration for the transfer case, but I'm guessing this is different?

Thanks!

Well this is a bit embarrassing. I'll answer my question a couple minutes after asking. GAP Diagnostic did a great job answering my support question very quickly!

They said that the rear diff requires reflashing in order to work properly. It is not something the IID Tool does out of the box, but it can be done for $30 using their fast lane service (www.gap-diagnostic.com/shop/fast-lane-service). Hopefully this info helps the next person.

One more update in case others find this thread later on..

It turns out the calibration was handled on its own. My mechanic said the codes didn't clear when he tested it after the repair, but when I picked it up the errors had gone away. I may still look into updating the firmware if I'm out of date, but reflashing wasn't *required* in my case.

interesting, thank you....  ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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My IIDtool has an option to initiate calibration for the rear e-diff but it may be a new option not yet generally available. I retrofitted the e-diff and a used control unit out of a D4 that was already at the latest level.

Graeme,

I carried out a retro-fit on my D3, but was wondering as how involved the electrics (various looms etc) are on the FF, before starting on the parts hunt??? Regards,
Mick

'Bertha' - 2014 SDV8 Autobigraphy
'Vincent' - 2010 TdV8 Vogue SE
- 'Molly' - 2005 HSE Auto
'Dixie' - 2000 D2 Td5 ES

Finding an e-diff with the correct ratio for my 4.4 was the difficult task as its ratio is not used in any other L322 but your ratio may be more common. The RDCU is the same as used in the D4 and MY10-13 RRS.

I expect the MY10-12 to be fitted with the same rear wiring harnesses in which case a replacement combination ediff/epb/fbh pump harness needs to be purchased. This harness plugs into a socket that has empty cavities for the ediff wires to connect to the RDCU. Empty RDCU connector shells were purchased from Duckworths, 30 HD pins (incl spares) for them from Farnells and pins from one of my Llams looms used for the ediff/epb/fbh pump socket as the sockets are the same so didn't have to track down pins from elsewhere. A 40A power cable was run to the empty fuse slot in the fuse panel in the RH rear quarter and a suitable earth to a nearby stud. The ignition power and can-bus wires were attached to the epb ones at the combination socket.

Below is a link to my AULRO retrofit thread.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l322-range-rove...-tdv8.html