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Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > Windows won't raise or lower? have a look at this...

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Ollie7195

Member Since: 11 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 74

Windows won't raise or lower? have a look at this...

Hi everyone,

Had a problem with my range rover since I bought it, both the rear windows wouldn't work!
luckily the rear drivers side door the connector had not been plugged into the window regulator! easy fix...
not so much with the passenger side though...

I could hear the relay clicking for the rear window from both the driver door switch and the passenger door switch so assumed this was fine, checked the connector alas it was plugged in not an easy fix! initially swapped in a new window regulator unit as I had 2 supplied with the car as the rear windows didn't work, plugged it in....nothing then tested the old one with some wire direct to the battery...it worked!

ok so the window regulator worked the relay clicked so what could be the problem?
put a voltage tester on the end of the connector 0V when the switch wasn't touched and a flicker of 0.1V when using the switch...interesting

did a bit of research turns out the relay for the windows is under the passenger seat...4 bolts later tilt the seat back for easy access under a flat black panel and here's the box (the little white bit with the 3 connectors)

undo the 3 connectors and the box will pull out it's a bit of a squeeze

this is the Body control unit (BCU) it controls all sorts in the car that you wouldn't expect it to...anyway

here it is removed:

pop open the back with a screw driver then to remove the circuit board push on the white connector and using a screw driver push in all the little tabs on the connector blocks working your way along to the larger black connector, this one doesn't have tabs but a good firm push and the board pops out!

it seems to be covered in lots of anti oxidising gooey stuff that makes it all shiny!
the 2 longer black boxes are the rear window relays, there are 2 separate relays in each black box one makes the window go up, the other down

here's a close up of them:

shiny one is rear drivers side dull one (replaced) is rear passengers side
now to diagnose the one that's the problem...

from the back these are the 2 relays:

then the parts of the relay:

now from this each relay block has 2 relays (2 coils, 2 12V commons, 2 normally open contacts N/O & 2 normally closed contacts N/C)

when measuring put a voltage tester set to ohms on the 12V common pin and to the corresponding N/C pin you should get a very low reading >1 ohm then the 12V common to the N/O pin should be open circuit

also the relay coil should be around 240 ohms

The problem with mine was the N/C pin to 12V common was reading ~60 ohms and wasn't switching (probably stuck/broken) on one of the parts of the relay everything else appeared fine

part you need is a: TYCO V23086-C2001-A303 can be found on ebay for around £5 much cheaper than a £150+ replacement BCU or repair!

the board is a pretty solid one unlike other types I have come across and isn't easily damaged by heat from the soldering iron, I had mine set to 350 degrees c and allowed all the solder around each pin to fully melt before using a solder sucker to take it away this way the relay is easily pulled away from the board afterwards.

not a lot else to say obviously done at your own risk! but it certainly isn't a difficult job

Another thing to note if this box is unplugged from the car you CANNOT lock it and probably can't drive it due to the different systems it controls so if you plan on doing this you will not be able to use the car during the process...

If your windows are stuck up/down or you need a way to test them without taking the door appart (bit of a pain) you can test them this way...

On the connector on the back of the BCU there are 4 wires that go to the rear windows Blue w/purple stripe & Black w/brown stripe is for the rear drivers side window Blue w/light grey stripe & Black w/green stripe is rear passengers side
looking at the connector this is pins 2 & 12 (rear drivers window) 5 & 15 (rear passengers window)

Hope this helps someone

Last edited by Ollie7195 on 30th Apr 2017 3:23pm. Edited 1 time in total

25th Apr 2017 8:26pm

alistairh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2016
Location: edinburgh
Posts: 801

2004 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

What a cracking write up!

25th Apr 2017 8:43pm

Strider

Member Since: 08 Jun 2015
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 504

2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

10/10

25th Apr 2017 10:29pm

JPHC

Member Since: 07 Sep 2015
Location: Kent
Posts: 303

2007 Range Rover Supercharged 4.2 SC V8 Java Black

Jordan

'56 SC 4.2 â€˜21-Current
'56 SC 4.2 â€˜16-â€˜18

26th Apr 2017 8:40am

mr_spock

Member Since: 07 Apr 2016
Location: Welwyn, Hertfordshire
Posts: 311

2003 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Java Black

This should be in the wiki!

26th Apr 2017 9:18am

mattstevenson2005

Member Since: 01 Jan 2011
Location: Manchester, UK
Posts: 737

2003 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 V8 Java Black

Excellent write up!! Just so you know the BCM has no direct control of the front windows, the front door modules control the front windows, the BCM just controls the rear windows directly.

Matt Current
2012 Range Rover 5.0L SC Ultimate Edition
2012 Range Rover 4.4L TDV8 Autobiography
2010 Range Rover 3.6L TDV8 Autobiography
2003 Range Rover 4.4L V8 Bespoke Vehicle

Inventor of the retro fit paddle shift and many other modifications.
Creator of the custom 2010+ RR MK4 splash screen.
Creator of the Range Rover CarPC and lots more!

Founder of Range Rover Owner
rangeroverowner.com | Facebook.com/RangeRoverOwner | Latest Videos âžž YouTube.com/RangeRoverOwner

26th Apr 2017 7:33pm

Ollie7195

Member Since: 11 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 74

Thanks for that Matt will edit the post, annoyingly not more than a week after fixing the relay for the passenger side the rear drivers side also decided to fail!!!! typically stuck half down just as it started to rain got a bit of wire and connected them to the jump spots in the engine bay then unplugged the connector found the rear window wired and powered it my self!

Definitely recommend replacing BOTH relays at the same time as the other will no doubt fail!

30th Apr 2017 10:49am

Flashman

Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Windsor & Brentwood
Posts: 1228

2011 Range Rover Autobiography TDV8 Santorini Black

Great write up, my rear drivers side has been temperamental depending on the weather, sometimes it works, other times you just hear the click of the BCU.

Might strip the doors down to see if the window regulator works off a 12v battery. Tom

Current Drive
2011 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography - Santorini Black - Ivory Leather

Previous Drives
2004 Model Vogue Td6 (Touchscreen) - Java Black - Parchment Leather
1994 RR Classic 3.9 V8 Soft dash - Niagara Grey - Grey Leather
1972 Series III SWB Safari - Green (Hand Painted) - Black Plastic

30th Apr 2017 2:46pm

Ollie7195

Member Since: 11 Dec 2016
Location: Somerset
Posts: 74

Tom, saw your post, have been through the pain of stripping the rear doors, can be avoided by the extra bit i've added at the bottom

30th Apr 2017 3:24pm

Flashman

Member Since: 05 Jun 2011
Location: Windsor & Brentwood
Posts: 1228

Thanks Ollie, great info! Tom

Current Drive
2011 4.4 TDV8 Autobiography - Santorini Black - Ivory Leather

Previous Drives
2004 Model Vogue Td6 (Touchscreen) - Java Black - Parchment Leather
1994 RR Classic 3.9 V8 Soft dash - Niagara Grey - Grey Leather
1972 Series III SWB Safari - Green (Hand Painted) - Black Plastic

30th Apr 2017 3:36pm

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