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Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2231

2007 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.2 SC V8 Zermatt Silver

[DIY] BMW NBT Retrofit

Hi All,

Firstly wasn't sure if this should be under ICE or Modifications as it falls under both. also apologies its taken so long.

Secondly this is for the BMW generation FFs. However there is a different emulator you can buy from car systems which will work with FF's upto 2009 if you like what you see

I fitted this on my vogue - cable routing was a bit of a b**ch I believe in the non vogues/HSEs this retrofit would be 10x easier!!

However every cloud... they vogue has two antenna that go into the tv tuner - these work very well in the DAB NBT.

Right so I have most pictures now but lost a few!

What do you need?

Easy,

BMW NBT Headunit - apparently this work with the very latest ID5/6 (carplay) Touchscreen units. This would have been perfect as I believe no idrive controller is necessary. Anyway these are very pricey...

So... you have NBT or NBT Evo... not much difference except evo has no drive normally and is smaller, and generally more expensive. You also have DAB/no dab - DAB has a premium.

You also need an idrive controller, any for the f series will do touch.

You will need the 10.5 (or 11.2) inch screen cant remember which it is one size ive made up there!

You need an hsd/lvds cable for the screen 5m if you are in a vogue any size if your not in a vogue. THIS ONLY GOES ONE WAY ROUND BE AWARE WHEN FITTING (one end for screen one for nbt)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331913680621?_trks...EBIDX%3AIT
one of these for the usb (not tested as its not arrived but should be fine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/152310190540?_trks...EBIDX%3AIT
and a usb port from BMW not sure the PN I rang and said I needed a new usb port for my nbt system and they ordered me one for 20gbp.
You may need a cheap Bluetooth aerial if you don't have one with a fakra connection got one from china for a tenner.
Finally, you need your emulator.

Now this can be where it gets complicated... you have two choices:

Bimmer Retrofit
Carsystems

At the time BR had a promo and the adapter was oly 2/3 the price so I went this route, there are some caveats though, and they are full price again..

As far as I can tell the BR adapter does not have anything over and above the Carsystems adapter.

Now carsystems over Bimmer Retrofit... This has dynamic park guideline if you have a camera and if you don't it will work with any 20gbp off ebay! Also it has a really nice feature of telling you the speed limit on the kombi and on the nav.

Bimmerretroift you buy direct - two options standard or extended - extended has a prewired loom the other you make yourself.
carsystems you buy from a reseller.
Reseller wise you have two options - you have Mick - (if you google nbt e39 retrofit there is a massive thread message him off that) who is more expensive at 500gbp but that is made ready to go with all the loom ready - you just need to run those cables.
You have Ricky who sell just the emulator and the wiring manual he is around 400gbp so two choices there.

You also need to consider support... the community seems to have a lot more happy carsystems customers.

Also BR don't officially support the FF but Carsystems do (which is a joke)

I have some niggling issues with my which we are still trying to iron out but they have pulled the 'unsupported vehicle card' so not holding too much hope however if they pull through I will recommend them.

Right - onto what I went for:
I managed to get all my bits from a 2016 f10.
I wen for the DAB NBT
The 10.2 inch f10 screen
The Touch idrive controller (without the touch module didn't interest me.)
The Bimmer Retrofit adapter with extended wiring loom
The LVDS cable above
The HSD cable above
A USB from BMW

Ok enough boring stuff lets crack on.

Sorry if I miss pictures I lost a few

Ok start by removing the following (no order) I wont write how its easy to find but remove the top of the dash and the existing screen.

Remover the top of the center console (black bit) if you lift the grey trim in front of the armrest up there are screw s there and maybe a couple more. Pull up the gear gator the put your finger in the hole and pull up the auto panel and unplug it all.
Unscrew and remove the black top.

Over to the boot now... if this is NOT in a vogue you can skip this part its the most annoying part as well so you may get lucky!..

Ok take the left panel off, remove the DVD/CD drive, the BM54 unit (at least unplug) the TV module and the telephone module if you have it.

Next we have to chase the cables from the rear to the front - we have the following:

LVDS cable for the Screen
IDrive controller cable from the loom (mine was premade)
HSD cable for usb port
two wires to splice into the canbus on the combi (I cant tell you which two as the emulators are different but both have two to run!) DO NOT DO WHAT I DID! Use good twisted cable for canbus not cat5 cable as it caused interference and faults!

Ok first picture - remove or lift the green panel between the panel you remove housing the dvd/cd drive and the rear seat

Click image to enlarge

Start casing the cables underneath.

Next lift the seat side to chase under:

Click image to enlarge

now remove the silver sill/kick plate and chase the cable under the black trim between the back seat and the trim you have removed.

Click image to enlarge

Continue to run cables under trim just past the back of the left hand seat frame...

now if you wan to do this properly you should take the seat out now and run under the carpet... I did not took long enough might do one day... out of sight out of mind

Ok so you now need those cable into the inside of the center console - if you didn't remove the seat - run them under the seat rails!!! don't want them being crushed!.

I did this by putting my hand on the inside of the console and forcing it out creating a gap to push cables through its sharp though!

Click image to enlarge

Ok now cut a hole in your storage bin for the usb and connect the HSD up to it (1 down! 3 to go!

Ok next cut a hole in the black trim you made earlier for the idrive controller so you know roughly where to leave the controller wire. (I made a cardboard template and dremlled it out)

Mine looked like this when done if you want an idea :

Click image to enlarge

Ok next we need to run both cables up to the dash - I did this by removing the lower panel under either the glove box or steer (left hand side) and then pushing a bit of wire down from the top where the existing screen is and then taping the can and lvds wires to it and pulling them through.

Click image to enlarge

Leave lvds where the existing screen sits.

Run CAN cables and splice into can wire on the kombi - unplug the two plugs - cuts the can wires one at a time - solder back together with the splice.

Ok if you haven't done so (hopefully you will) prepare the screen bezel - I removed mine from the screen measured the existing width and cut it to the same. I then used chemical metal and paint to make it the same width all the way up.:

Click image to enlarge

I then rubbed it down and painted matt black and reattached to the screen.

Connect the screen.

mount the screen and side posts - I did it like - two metal brackets screwed in wedging it - the dash would then secure it -but use whatever you have to secure it:

Click image to enlarge

Non vogues - not the amount of space back there - I would suggest you have your nbt in hear and then the screen in front of it nice and easy!

Ok next - back to the boot. Time to plug the quadlock from the bm54 into our harness. I then plug the quadlock from the harness into the NBT. I put the two tv antenna in the yellow green sockets (DAB) I plug the aerial from bm54 into black aerial socket. I push gps from the nav unit into the blue socket. Bluetooth aerial into the beige socket (if you don't have a Bluetooth aerial a cheap ebay china job did it for me less than a tenner).

ok then plug the pink screen connector in to the pink socket , the usb connector into the beige socket.

You then need to wire your microphone from your existing telephone module - pinouts available online as they can differ but into the mic input on the harness.

Right... we are set! start the car.

All being well it should fire up and be semi usable!

If this is the case, next put the dash back together, the centre console back together and the rest of it.

I also chemical metalled and painted around the controller to make it look a little nice.

It should now look something like this

Great - that's it... you now need to code it properly... for that you need to get a copy of esys ... its very easy to use to code on and off options. Most adapters will tell you whats needed.

I was also told id need to code my dsp amp to mid_basis or it would cut out... I did not have to do this so I don't know how you would.

That's pretty much it!

Any questions just shout

Heres it working:

*EDIT* As I wrote this late last night I forgot to mention there will be a 5mm gap above the screen... I used some black washer hose I had lying around with a skewer in and it filled it nicely.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Last edited by Danwilderspin on 24th Feb 2017 10:28am. Edited 1 time in total

24th Feb 2017 12:53am

stan
Site Moderator

Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: a moderate moderated moderator moderating moderately in moderation
Posts: 35651

nice job Dan, i've put this in the wiki.. ... - .- -.

Y. O. L. O.
.

24th Feb 2017 9:53am

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2231

Thanks Stan

24th Feb 2017 10:26am

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2231

Wasted a little more money on this experiment but it may make it cheaper for you guys if anyone fancies it.

Looking around to see the differences between professional nbt and business nbt, they are the rive found so far:

Pro has 200gb hdd for storing video and music business does not.
Pro has Bluetooth Audio streaming with album art - from what I can see it's the same with business but no album art.
Pro work with cars with hud/ mpower systems etc business does not.

Business is the same size as the mk4 drive so hopefully it will fit more snug.

None of the above bother me i don't need the drive I stream form an iPod or deezer anyway. This is me braving it I asked bimmerretrofit if it works they said untested but it should, it must be newer than 07-14 or it will be old non nbt model.

Anyway these are cheap put it this way I paid £100 for just the unit and my nbt would have worked out being dab £400ish (this too is dab)

It turned up earlier so will try to fit and code and report back

26th Feb 2017 9:46pm

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2231

Re wires everything and my issues are less br used too narrow gauge wire. No PDc display still so still waiting to hear back I probably still would go car systems ATM.

Is anyone else interested in doing this in the uk I have a precoded for l322 nbt with dab spare and a screen thinking of. Using a controller and selling a kit - you'd just need to do the wiring and the emulator which isn't too hard

8th Mar 2017 9:00pm

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2231

Still no update from BR they will get a serious bad mouth soon second thing I've bought that's not as advertised!

On a side note I tried just connecting everything in my mates vogue and used the tv tuner antenna but the signal was quite a bit weaker so you could get lucky like me or you may need a stick on aerial in the rear 1/4 window which wouldn't be too. As I wouldn't think

13th Mar 2017 8:59am

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2231

Hi guys - this will most be a problem to everyone on here who attempts this...

The sound not switching on was indeed a coding issue the amp needed to be told not to look for the boardmonitor...

However I have no idea how to code it as ncs doesn't work in the l322 from what I see? Anyway I found one out of an e39 without nav... plugged it in and it works fine however the sound is not right and once again I've read that it needs coding for the right crossovers and l322 is different to e39... any ideas how we can code these amps?

19th Mar 2017 11:51pm

mjdronfield

Member Since: 04 Nov 2011
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 7912

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE TDV8 Buckingham Blue

Navcoder?

http://www.navcoder.com 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

20th Mar 2017 12:53am

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2231

Navcoder I thought was the original answer but you can only read the dsp unit not code it I emailed jochen but he said he could not work out how to code it so gave up

20th Mar 2017 10:26am

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2231

I tried the guys over at iid tool and I got a should work. It won't guarantee it... an expensive test as that's all I'd use it for...

I have asked around all the bmw forums if anyone with a dsp setup in e38/39/53 would recode my unit for some hard cash but it's very silent currently...

This has lead me to options 2 and 3...

Option 2, after reading around the existing dsp is 300watt rms, 100 to the subs and the remaining 200 to the speakers...

The internal 4 channel amplifier of the nbt is 100w rms... so half... now I barely drive around at quarter volume so I'm hoping this will suffice , so I have ordered a set of diamond audio 3 way crossovers and will attempt to rewrite the nbt output via these. I really don't want to change the stock speakers as that gets really pricey. I will also drive the sun separately.

Option 3 - if the above is too quiet is to do exactly the same but code the nbt to use low level output and stock a 4 channel 300watt amp in the middle of option 2...

I'll keep you posted!

20th Mar 2017 11:20pm

mjdronfield

Member Since: 04 Nov 2011
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 7912

Don't forget you are running active crossovers in the standard system, so they are not powered by the amps.... so the wattage comparison is not like for like. In a passive system, up to 70% of the power to the speakers drives the crossovers. Have a read on the internet about active and passive systems and it will tell you more....

You will get the idea anyway... it will work, but you will lose the benefits of active.....

2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

21st Mar 2017 6:50am

mjdronfield

Member Since: 04 Nov 2011
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 7912

Thinking on... to be honest, the stock system is quite old now, 1990s tech, so things have moved on a bit now.... new stuff might be the way to go now.... 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

21st Mar 2017 6:54am

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2231

Hi all - not left this to die anyone thinking of this..

After reading a few other posts and speaking to my friend who use to be and engineer for b&w he reckons we can make some high pass filters for the tweeters and the mods around 5khz tweeter and 1khz mid and the control the bass speakers with an amp if I go the amp route or another capacitor if I don't.

I think this is going to be the best way to retain stock equipment I'll keep you posted...

20th Apr 2017 11:30pm

Danwilderspin

Member Since: 15 Jun 2016
Location: Cambridgeshire
Posts: 2231

Hi all - whilst waiting for the bits to come I have pursued another experiment - I have (stupidly) ordered the carsystems adapter to compare.

Once I've compared and hopefully have the full solution working nicely would anyone be interested in purchasing the complete kit? I have put the nbt and screen I had spare in for sale but might pull it for now and list a full kit with loom, controller etc that's pretty much plug and play... I will even precise the head unit as best I can for the Range Rover... all you will need is half a day to chase the wires...

It would be the better carsystems adapter I'd sell it with I think as the one I have from bimmer retrofit is vin locked so it would be junk if I didn't use it...

Cheers

23rd Apr 2017 1:14pm

Rewmer

Member Since: 14 Jan 2013
Location: Essex
Posts: 142

How did the carsystems unit work out Dan ? No7 - 2003 V8 Vogue

20th May 2017 7:08pm

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