 | Home > In Car Electronics (L322) > [DIY] BMW NBT Retrofit |
 
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| Danwilderspin Member Since: 15 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 2231   
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Hi All,
Start casing the cables underneath. Next lift the seat side to chase under:
now remove the silver sill/kick plate and chase the cable under the black trim between the back seat and the trim you have removed.
Continue to run cables under trim just past the back of the left hand seat frame... now if you wan to do this properly you should take the seat out now and run under the carpet... I did not took long enough might do one day... out of sight out of mind 
Ok so you now need those cable into the inside of the center console - if you didn't remove the seat - run them under the seat rails!!! don't want them being crushed!. I did this by putting my hand on the inside of the console and forcing it out creating a gap to push cables through its sharp though!
Ok now cut a hole in your storage bin for the usb and connect the HSD up to it (1 down! 3 to go! Ok next cut a hole in the black trim you made earlier for the idrive controller so you know roughly where to leave the controller wire. (I made a cardboard template and dremlled it out) Mine looked like this when done if you want an idea :
Ok next we need to run both cables up to the dash - I did this by removing the lower panel under either the glove box or steer (left hand side) and then pushing a bit of wire down from the top where the existing screen is and then taping the can and lvds wires to it and pulling them through.
Leave lvds where the existing screen sits. Run CAN cables and splice into can wire on the kombi - unplug the two plugs - cuts the can wires one at a time - solder back together with the splice. Ok if you haven't done so (hopefully you will) prepare the screen bezel - I removed mine from the screen measured the existing width and cut it to the same. I then used chemical metal and paint to make it the same width all the way up.:
I then rubbed it down and painted matt black and reattached to the screen. Connect the screen. mount the screen and side posts - I did it like - two metal brackets screwed in wedging it - the dash would then secure it -but use whatever you have to secure it:
Non vogues - not the amount of space back there - I would suggest you have your nbt in hear and then the screen in front of it nice and easy! Ok next - back to the boot. Time to plug the quadlock from the bm54 into our harness. I then plug the quadlock from the harness into the NBT. I put the two tv antenna in the yellow green sockets (DAB) I plug the aerial from bm54 into black aerial socket. I push gps from the nav unit into the blue socket. Bluetooth aerial into the beige socket (if you don't have a Bluetooth aerial a cheap ebay china job did it for me less than a tenner). ok then plug the pink screen connector in to the pink socket , the usb connector into the beige socket. You then need to wire your microphone from your existing telephone module - pinouts available online as they can differ but into the mic input on the harness. Right... we are set! start the car. All being well it should fire up and be semi usable! If this is the case, next put the dash back together, the centre console back together and the rest of it. I also chemical metalled and painted around the controller to make it look a little nice. It should now look something like this Great - that's it... you now need to code it properly... for that you need to get a copy of esys ... its very easy to use to code on and off options. Most adapters will tell you whats needed. I was also told id need to code my dsp amp to mid_basis or it would cut out... I did not have to do this so I don't know how you would. That's pretty much it! Any questions just shout Heres it working: *EDIT* As I wrote this late last night I forgot to mention there will be a 5mm gap above the screen... I used some black washer hose I had lying around with a skewer in and it filled it nicely. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Last edited by Danwilderspin on 24th Feb 2017 10:28am. Edited 1 time in total |
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24th Feb 2017 12:53am |
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| stan Site Moderator Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: a moderate moderated moderator moderating moderately in moderation Posts: 35622
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nice job Dan, i've put this in the wiki.. |
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24th Feb 2017 9:53am |
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| Danwilderspin Member Since: 15 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 2231
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Thanks Stan |
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24th Feb 2017 10:26am |
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| Danwilderspin Member Since: 15 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 2231
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Re wires everything and my issues are less br used too narrow gauge wire. No PDc display still so still waiting to hear back I probably still would go car systems ATM.
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8th Mar 2017 9:00pm |
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| Danwilderspin Member Since: 15 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 2231
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Still no update from BR they will get a serious bad mouth soon second thing I've bought that's not as advertised!
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13th Mar 2017 8:59am |
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| Danwilderspin Member Since: 15 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 2231
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Hi guys - this will most be a problem to everyone on here who attempts this...
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19th Mar 2017 11:51pm |
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| mjdronfield Member Since: 04 Nov 2011 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 7905 
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Navcoder?
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20th Mar 2017 12:53am |
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| Danwilderspin Member Since: 15 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 2231
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Navcoder I thought was the original answer but you can only read the dsp unit not code it I emailed jochen but he said he could not work out how to code it so gave up |
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20th Mar 2017 10:26am |
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| Danwilderspin Member Since: 15 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 2231
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I tried the guys over at iid tool and I got a should work. It won't guarantee it... an expensive test as that's all I'd use it for...
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20th Mar 2017 11:20pm |
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| mjdronfield Member Since: 04 Nov 2011 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 7905
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Don't forget you are running active crossovers in the standard system, so they are not powered by the amps.... so the wattage comparison is not like for like. In a passive system, up to 70% of the power to the speakers drives the crossovers. Have a read on the internet about active and passive systems and it will tell you more....
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21st Mar 2017 6:50am |
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| mjdronfield Member Since: 04 Nov 2011 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 7905
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Thinking on... to be honest, the stock system is quite old now, 1990s tech, so things have moved on a bit now.... new stuff might be the way to go now.... 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8
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21st Mar 2017 6:54am |
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| Danwilderspin Member Since: 15 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 2231
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Hi all - not left this to die anyone thinking of this..
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20th Apr 2017 11:30pm |
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| Danwilderspin Member Since: 15 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridgeshire Posts: 2231
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Hi all - whilst waiting for the bits to come I have pursued another experiment - I have (stupidly) ordered the carsystems adapter to compare.
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23rd Apr 2017 1:14pm |
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| Rewmer Member Since: 14 Jan 2013 Location: Essex Posts: 142 
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How did the carsystems unit work out Dan ? No7 - 2003 V8 Vogue |
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20th May 2017 7:08pm |
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