I'll have another look later / tomorrow. Just winding me up as I get covered in oil every time I 'look' at the car!

My o ring is split and I can't get it to stay in the pipe so I think I'll try a new one, see if I can get down to Advanced Factors tomorrow. I can push the connector all the way on to the intercooler, but nothing locks and it just goes back to where it locks, resulting in the rattle as per YouTube video, but it wasn't massive amounts better with the o ring in! 

Any bearing and transmission specialist should be able to supply you with an 'o'ring.. You say that yours is broken, so you didn't get one in the new pipe? I'd have thought that they'd come with a new 'o'ring... might be worth questioning your supplier.. you might have been sold an incomplete part

If you've broken the new 'o'ring then it could possibly help to try and twist the new pipe on when the ring is replaced, this will help it on to the stub from the intercooler, and something to help it slip... oil, which you appear to have more than enough of or a bit of grease  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Sorry if I've got confusing, I got the new intercooler pipe October 2016, because of the oil everywhere around it

Fitted the new pipe, it wasn't as tight as I thought but I left it, and as you can see it's covered in oil again and obviously wasn't right

I've attached some pictures of the seal that's come out the pipe yesterday when I decided to investigate... I'm starting to wonder now if I forced the new pipe on last time and broke the seal at the same time without realising ?

It's not an o ring as such, more of a T strip (second picture should explain more what I mean)

If it's all there, then a good clean (solvent) and a bit of superglue should see it round again.... looks like you caught it at an angle and it split when it was pushed home, as I said a bit of something to help it slip on will help and a twisting motion will also aid you  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

That's if there's only meant to be one seal...

Here are some more pictures of mine:

That looks like there should be an 'o'ring on the intercooler stub as well, otherwise there are 2 positions for it to lock in, and because there is a hole in the intercooler stub, if it's not pushed on far enough you'll instantly get a leak from that hole...

Further investigation is needed me thinks.... Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Well the 2 reasonable pictures that I have found don't show any hole in the stubbs

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Also, as has been commented on before, there is rather a lot of oil.... have you checked the crankcase breather filter..and is it the later vortex type? I'm just wondering if some muppet has drilled that hole to reduce the pressure due to excessive smoke.. which is very common on a BMW engine with a blocked breather! Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Now it's all making sense!!

I don't think the hole is meant to be there, it was holding the original pipe on when I took it off in October

I'm not sure about an o ring on the intercooler, but I'm thinking if the hose clips into the one nearest the intercooler, the seal should but up to the first one, so the hole wouldn't make any difference?

It's a right pita to access, I could change the intercooler but looks like a pig of a job... maybe it was the hole is sharp and ripped the seal? 

Also I changed the breather filter when I did the hose last time, was pretty knackered... bit confused as to where the oil is from as it's dry inside the intercooler pipe 

The oil will be coming from the turbo, but they all loose a bit, but it normally ends up in the engine, so you'd never know! They haven't invented an oil seal that works at 280,000 rpm and exhaust temperatures, so they all weep a mist.

I'd fill the hole with a bit of JB Weld and then smooth it down with some fine wet and dry paper.. it also files very easily That way there is nothing to catch the new seal, and nothing to leak an oil mist when it's back together  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Will see how I get on tomorrow  

My silicone hoses, the T bar clamps and the EGR by-pass kit all turned up today. I did check with the company who supplied the silicone hoses and they said that they do retain the original fittings that attach to the intercooler. Otherwise I could have sent you my spare fitting.

Have you had any more luck with it?

Glen.

I haven't yet no, I couldn't get a hose from local dealer as they couldn't get stock.. ordered another Bearmach one that will probably be here early next week!

That's interesting, does the genuine hose come off the fitting? Bearmach one doesn't it's one unit so I'm guessing if I got a silicone kit I'd need to buy a genuine hose too for the fitting?

Let me know how you get on when you fit it if you can, will be interested how you get on doing the elbow on the turbo as I will have 2 spares for that so may as well fit one...

Cheers

Steve 

Steve,

Yes, the genuine hoses are held to the fitting with a jubilee clip. I guess this is an advantage, in that it is another joint that you can slacken to get everything to line up.

You could probably get a secondhand one off e-bay, if you did decide to for the silicone hoses.

Sure, I'll let you know how I get on fitting mine, it probably won't be until the weekend now. My priority is the manifold side of the intercooler, as that is where I have the split hose. If I get time I will do the other side too. What's access to the turbo like? is it easiest to remove the air-filter box?

The quality of the hoses and the clips looks to be really good.

Glen.