There are 2 x Manifold Absolute Pressure monitors
- Manifold absolute pressure Bank 1: it was reading aprox 98
- Manifold absolute pressure Bank 2: it was reading - N/A

I'll keep making test runs until I can capture a failure.

If anybody has any other thoughts of Sensors or Live Values to check, please add a comment.

Many thanks
Bob

We're those values taken at idle or driving.

As I'm going out later and will capture live values from mine if you want to give a list.


It could be a live wire grounding out. Had drive ability issues with my previous FF and due to wires from the one of the mafs had rubbed through and was touching the bodywork and going to ground. Regards
Mark

2012 Westminster
GONE - 2007 Java Black FF Vogue, with Ivory interior

Hi there,

Those Line Values were taken at idle. I do have a large recording from a test drive but I'm not sure if I can upload such a file.

But it would be great if you could do a comparison.

Thx

proser wrote:

It could be a live wire grounding out.

It is not likely to be a live feed earthing, surely this would blow a fuse eventually and hence not be an intermittent fault, so much more likely to be a high resistance earth connection. G reg 2.5VM Vogue Portofino red 1991- 1999
V reg 2.5td P38 Rioja red 1999- 2006
53 reg td6 Vogue Oslo blue 2006- 2015
11 reg 4.4 TdV8 Vogue SE. Baltic blue 2015- date.
https://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic56162...tty+affair

The fuses are on the 12V supply, not the 5V supplies which typically are current limited by circuitry to 1A or 5A.

OK. I have a log of an Engine Cut out whilst at idle.

One thing to remember on this problem is that sometimes the engine does not fully cut out, I.e. Just a blip in power loss, but then the engine continues running. When there is a blip, no Confirmed Faults are logged by the IIDTool.

Here is the cut out line value graph for a FULL Cut-Out.

Ok - I have captured a Failed Starting of the Engine followed by a Start of the engine.

The engine was turning over for 10 or so seconds, but not firing up. Then I stopped and tried again and the engine started.

The graph shows that there is Zero RPM, Howevr, should record the Cranking RPM rather than zero ?

I'm sure that the lack of a crankshaft position sensor is the reason why the engine falters, stops and wont start. The reason the the lack of signal will have to be investigated.

My money is on the crank position sensor.

The engine isn't seeing the crank turning, then you get a signal, then when it shuts of for a sec or 2 it loses the signal again.

Had the same symptoms on my van, was the crank sensor, which on that was on the flywheel. We pulled the diagnostics on a solus and the graph looked very similar.

just had a quick look at rave, the crank sensor is inside the bell housing on the back of the engine, behind the flywheel, it is not clear if the flywheel and gearbox have to come off, it doesnt say so, however it looks an awkward of a job. Starter motor out then if I'm reading the diagrams right there are a couple of brackets which need taking off, then the sensor can be removed through a small inspection panel on the side of the bell housing. It picks up its signal from the centre of the crank. On my Van it took the signal from the edge of the flywheel so was really easy to change. the instructions in rave are pretty sparse, just says take off starter, remove bracketry (pics) then shows the small panel and a shot of where the sensor is less the flywheel and gearbox (I'm assuming these can stay in place) There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
KIA E-Niro 4+
2021 Discovery 5 D300 MHEV commercial

I expect the sensor / trigger to be the same setup as the TDV6 which uses the same sensor part number. The TDV6 trigger ring is pressed onto the crankshaft and the sensor pokes in deep from the side of the block and is retained by a single bolt. The sensor part number has been superseded twice since the 2011/2012 production version. The TDV8 sensor is mounted on the RHS of the block whereas the TDV6's is mounted on the LHS.

Yes, I think its time to get the Crankshaft Position Sensor (LR049872) replaced.

Looking at the workshop manual, it needs to be done on ramps with quite a bit of clearance.

Question is who can I get to do it ?

Anybody had it done before ? what did it cost ? I know the part is £147 from Dan, but not sure on fitting cost. Should go main dealer or indie ?

has your car been fixed, noticed my car did the same today several time when driving, a second or 2 of what felt like no power no dash light come on though

SOLVED

The cause of the engine cutting out intermittently problem was the Crankshaft Position Sensor. I've had it replaced, on its own as this version of the sensor does not need the Ring replacing which is fortunate as that is a much bigger job requiring gearbox removal.

I've been running a week or so now with no issues.

Many thanks to all those whom contributed to the diagnosis.

Overall if you do experience these cutting out symptoms or a stall, then the use of the IIDTool for diagnosis is hugely helpful. Check back in the post for the method of my diagnosis.

Thanks all. -------------------------------------
MY 2012 4.4 TDV8