No, If it gets cold enough the engine will run richer fuel maps thinking it is still warming up etc. Mind you i don't think you will get it that cold

As engines become more modern they are running at hotter temperatures, The TD6 is extremely fuel efficiant and in some conditions can struggle to keep itself warm to some degree




Dave 2010 TDV8 Autobiography

Past - 02 & 03 TD6 And an 1984 Classic

GAP Diagnostics

Am definitely going to try running TD6 minus viscous fan just in case this is at fault. Have been meaning to do this for ages but only now the cold weather has arrived,it's become urgent!

You can hear the fan if you know what your listening for when it is running / driving, they are very noisy!

Mine on the TD6 only ever came on during very hot days and you could always hear it kick in... like a bloody helicopter



Dave 2010 TDV8 Autobiography

Past - 02 & 03 TD6 And an 1984 Classic

GAP Diagnostics

Thanks for the reply miggit. However there is a bleed screw that's higher in the system than the EGR cooler supply and return (see photo)[img]

My only thoughts are they've fitted the bleed screws at known airlock points in the system.. and you have done away with one.. it could just be there because the EGR cooler gets airlocked, but it could be more than that... the main bit of good news is that it isn't overheating, so it is useable But with the awy the weather has just gone you might need to wrap up a bit warmer  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Two week gap and about a thousand miles. I have no loss of fluid (good) but the temperature gauge is cold going downhill and warms up towards but never reaches the 12 position under uphill load. I think it might be time to change the main thermostat and I think the Gates one looks like the best option. I'll update here when I get it done.

Hi guys, my TD6 is also running cold! sits constantly at 10 o'clock with very small fluctuations up or down, it did once cool down to the top of the blue section too! on a steep hill. I read that the EGR thermostat could be a problem so I made a small clamp and blocked the hose with it and its made no difference at all, I assume this would point to it being the main thermostat? as I haven't heard much about the g/b oil cooler thermostat causing a problem?

Also for those of you who have removed the EGR cooler completely...what size bungs/caps & jubilee clips do you need for the pipes to be blocked off?

Hi Ollie7195. I removed the complete EGR system about a month or so ago. The original advice was on the Aussie RR site at http://www.aulro.com/afvb/l322-range-rover...tem-2.html
Apart from the hassle of having to remove the fan and the shroud to gain access it really is quite simple. There are several EGR blanking kits on line and they are all pretty much the same. Just make sure you get the exhaust blanking plate in your kit, apparently not all kits have this. I have to say that fitting the exhaust blank is difficult to access and it's easier if you remove the turbo air supply pipe. I also had to remove the vacuum pump from the front of the engine to get access to the bolts on the turbo pipe. The blanking plugs for the EGR cooler supply you mention are a separate purchase http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270967905450?clk...rmvSB=true These blanks are soft and may not stand the test of time - one of mine split already (see above!)
As for the temperature fix. I had exactly the same problem that you have.

Hi mariner30! I've got the blanking kit with the exhaust manifold blank as I was planning on removing the egr completely at some point but didn't know what size the pipe diameter was for a plug (guessing around 15mm inside diameter?) and didn't want to drain it down as I need the car during the week, but thanks for the tip I had thought the vacuum pump might need to be removed as I couldn't see how to remove the turbo inlet pipe so thanks for confirming that!

Do you have the part number for the thermostat? I think I might change the water pump while I'm down there as the engines got 140k on it and I suspect they wear out at some point so might as well do it at the same time.

and have you removed the viscous fan permanently? as that's another thing I was going to do to make access easier, doesn't seem like its going to be needed, at least not for what ill use it for!

The LR Thermostat is LPEL000050 and retails from LR at £69.06 inc VAT. The blanking caps are 16mm and come as a pair. The water pump should be changed while you're there unless it has already been changed. The new one will have a metal (not plastic) impeller)
Joe90 advised that the viscous fan isn't needed but I refitted it as I am about to go away for a few days and I wanted to see what the coolant temperature was like on a longer journey. If all is steady and at the right temperature I'll remove it and run around locally to see how it goes.
Hope all goes well- BTW mine has done 113k and the EGR valve was badly blocked - also the EGR cooler was clearly leaking as evidenced by the white steam out of the exhaust and the excessive coolant loss! We're lucky that EGR removal doesn't bring up the Check Engine Light in this model.

Have fun! 2003 TD6 SE model with EGR removed
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee - drowned!
2002 Nissan X Trail - Passed away
1997 BMW E36 323i Conv. My spare for summer use!

Thanks for all that, greatly appreciated! I have no excuse not to carry on with it now I have a feeling my viscous fan may have started to cease, I had the bonnet open while idling and it was spinning round rather quickly, will have to try the newspaper test on it when its cool and see if it stops, could be that cooling it a bit too much but i doubt that would be enough on its own, I expect my valve and manifold to be pretty bad, doesn't look like any of it has been touched from new! hoping getting rid of the egr and a good oil change will make it run a lot smother, damn thing has the BMW vanos tick or something along those lines (sticky hydraulic follower) hoping its not a blocked oil way!

Just tested the viscous fan and it appears to be sticking, I don't want to use the word cease as it can be spun by hand when the engine is off but it stops after about half a turn, but tested with the news paper and the fan showed no signs of stopping so that will be coming off and going in the bin!

^^^^ and leave it off  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Probably right Joe 90. Just travelled about 160 miles on Motorway and country roads. Temp remained steady at 12 o'clock all the way. Time to remove the fan when I get home next week, methinks.

Have fun Ollie. Hope to hear how it all goes! 2003 TD6 SE model with EGR removed
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee - drowned!
2002 Nissan X Trail - Passed away
1997 BMW E36 323i Conv. My spare for summer use!

Finally got round to removing it all! changed the main thermostat, annoyingly the original was still holding fine when i tested it, but the water pump was the original and it was just beginning to get a bit of slack in the shaft, blanked the EGR at the exhaust manifold and boy what a difference!

throttle response (turbo) much quicker, and also the exhaust was A LOT less fumy I used to be able to smell it when ever it was running but now for some reason you can barely smell it at all!

Did you guys put the fan shroud back afterwards?

The EGR thermostat was definitely passing so I expect that was the culprit!