Hi Guys.

I have had my 54 Plate 4.4 FFRR for about 5 Months now, only done 82K and although it had has a few issues I must say I do love it.
Problem I have now is that I have just split my 3rd Expansion Tank.
1st went a few weeks after I got the Car (Split down one Corner) must be an age thing I thought as its 12 Years old so I got one from Euro Car Parts and it seemed fine. Towed the Caravan 500 mile round trip to Wales with no issues.
Had done probably 2K Miles and it Coolant Low came up on the Dash, topped it up a couple of times and it still came up after only a short run so decided to investigate.
Found Expansion Tank No2 was leaking from where the Top and Bottom Halves are joined.
Took it back to Euro Car Parts and got another Tank FOC.
This has been on the Car for 3 Weeks and it went again but this time on the M1.
Having spent 2 Hrs waiting to be recovered the Car is now back home.

Can anyone throw any light on to what might be causing this to happen.
I've read a lot on here about different Pressure Caps and different ratings but it originally had a 200 Cap on when the 1st Tank split so I bought a 140 Cap when I fitted tank No 2 and this still failed. When the latest tank was fitted I decided to go back to the 200 Cap ( as this was the original cap when I got the Car) but yet again I have a split Tank.

Only other thing I'm questioning is the Antifreeze I'm using.
When Tank No1 split the coolant that came out was Pink / Orange so I have been filling up with the Halfords OAT (Orange) Readymixed.
Is this correct for a 54 Plate 4.4 Petrol or is this a possible cause ?

Need your help guys as I need the Car to be reliable and after 5 months of owning it I've been recovered 3 Times now which is really taking the shine off things.

I've got g48 in mine. Is there a possibility mixing the two has bunged up the car?

I've got g48 in mine. Is there a possibility mixing the two has bunged up the car?

The antifreeze should be blue/ green and shouldn't mix with the red type.
I use inugel expert.
I have the 140 cap which after lots of digging around I believe is the correct one now supplied due to split tank issues but I have never have had one split.
I don't know what the quality is like for the Eurocarparts one so if it's cheap it may be worth looking at an alternative brand.

How are you bleeding the air out, I found recently raising the front of the RR on ramps or even a curb helps, have a look on the meeknet site on how to bleed it as the BMW M62TUB44 is the same engine you have and poorly bled system can cause overheat and pressure, check if the bottom left hose is cold after a run.
Quality tank
140 cap
Bleed thoroughly
Ideally drain, flush and replace coolant with blue once you are happy with the set up.
Cross your fingers and hope your head gaskets aren't causing the pressure...

common faults with coolant/ if you have a leak somewhere it can be difficult to find due to the heat generated by engine ..pressure is usually caused by airlock ie not bled properly. header tanks can be a problem. change thermostat to 80 deg one which will lower pressure and heat . get a pressure test done on system and make sure she is bled right which can take time and patience/ you need a 200 cap as pressure generated turns water to steam and will leak out past cap/you will hardly see where the leak is coming from as any water leak is evaporated instantly leaving a nice whie mark on offending area water pump rear knuckle joint rad header tank also if top hose plastic is brown in colour change it asap as it may destroy itself best modification is 80 deg thermostat good luck

and oat orange is correct antifreeze dont mix with any other colour but get system sorted first as it will cost you to keep replacing it

First off go and get a genuine tank, Dan at Duckworths, site sponsor will sort you out with a good price, he can also tell from your vin which cap you need.

I would suggest that your radiator is starting to block up at the bottom, they all do it, it's just a matter of time.... this reduces the flow around the system and increases the already high pressure, if I were you I would check the rad, check the hoses and also do the thermostat mod to reduce the ridiculous temps and also the pressure...

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic39362.html

Might also be worth getting a blown cylinder head gasket test done as that could also lead to excessive pressure...  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thanks for the replies guys.
Had another look tonight and the Tank is still in tack.
Turns out the Rubber Hose has blown off the Plasctic Fitting on the Top Rad Hose.
Have refitted for testing with a New Jubilee Clip.
Results so far are no leaks that I can see but the bottom rad hose is staying stone cold.
So have Ordered Top and Bottom Hoses for the Rad, along with a Sniff Test Kit to check for Gases and an 80 Deg Thermostat Mod kit.
My thinking is the Bottom Hose is cold due to the Stat not Opening thus causing excess Pressure which Blew the Top Hose.
New Thermostat, Hoses and Flushing the Rad at the Weekend will hopefully sort things out.
Will do the Sniff test as well just for some peace of mind.

Will let you know how I get on.

Unlikely a stuck stat would do that, more likely a blocked radiator or could be an airlock, I'd try for the airlock first, remove the rad cap and let it tick over for ages, see if some air gets blown out...  Pete
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

The top hose is not normally a jubilee clip, it is supposed to be a bonded seal with a steel band around it , there is nothing for the jubilee clip to grip to, I have just changed my hose.

You have air in the system I would say.
Read the meeknet site but basically add coolant to the header and burp both top and bottom hoses and keep doing that with the coolant nearly to the brim until air bubbles stop and have the front of the car raised on ramps or blocks .carry on doing this with the engine running and heater on max heat and fan on 1.
It can take a while and keep topping up coolant and do t chip off your fingers in the fan or AC pump.
You can fill it to max and release the bleed screw to start but mine didn't really bleed until I started squeezing the hoses.
Your bottom hose should be at least very warm. Taking it for a quick drive around the block and starting again helps as well but have a read of the meeknet site .

small top hose to expansion tank has a jubilee clip better replace hase as they get knackered and break off def bleed air do it a few times and leave overnight then check when cold in the morning will prob need some water

OK had her all apart today.
Removed the Rad and its flowing freely with a Garden Hose so no blockages there but I got a load of crap out of the corigrations when I cleaned it all out with an Air line.
Just waiting now for the Thermostat Mod to arrive and I can put her back together and see what happens

Well all back together now.
Ended getting the 80 DegC Stat mod and a New Viscous Fan Clutch and all seems to be good.
Thought the Mod was a very good idea to reduce Temps and Pressures, still can't get my head round why running coolant at 108 DegC was even deemed to be a good idea.
Fan was very notchy when I tried to spin it and as we will be doing a lot of Towing this Summer I thought it was worth doing.
Just going to keep my eye on the Coolant Levels over the next couple of days and then try Towing the Caravan on Saturday as it needs to go for it's annual service.
Fingers crossed I've got to the bottom of the issues.