I've tried to follow his guide and am stuck on he centre console by.
http://www.fullfatrr.com/wiki/Handbrake_cable_replacement

Pictures would speak a 1000 words but there aren't any so as I go I'd like to add some but from the way I read it am I correct in saying it's not the finisher panel under he rear vents that gets removed but in fact is the whole centre console after you lift the arm rest and remove the two torx head bolts from under the little plastic/rubber tray? FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Says in Rave to remove the entire center console, you maybe able to do it with removing less but doesn't look easy.... Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Don't need to remove the entire console, just the rear panel which will give you access to the cables. Watch your hands, the metalwork in there is razor sharp and if you can do it without cutting yourself then I will buy you a pint

Ah cheers John

Do you mean the lower panel on the rear under the vents, or just by pushing the rear up a few inches?

After working for years in IT I've learned about sharp metal in tight spaces sonill not be getting any cuts!

Not spotted anybheat shields cover the cable before it ducks inside the car so hoping that makes the job a bit easier for me and I'll use the old string and ductape method to help guide it in  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I think I completely remover the lift up lid/cover and tray, then the lower panel which is held in place with push in plastic pins and possibly a couple of Posidrive screws down the bottom. Sorry I can't be more help Will, it was a few years ago now and the old grey matter isn't what it used to be. Once you have a look and see it, it's fairly straight forward and simple enough to do, just don't drop the plastic clips as they are a nightmare to find again....That much I do remember

Well I've replaced the cable with no skin lost! I still need to refit the hub and connect it at that end but I think and hope that will be much easier than the interior but!

It was quite fiddly with the ball release but at least having a dedicated tube guide to feed it up helped a lot but I played it safe with the string/old abs sensor cable and ductape method
If someone had to do the passenger side one it would be super fiddly due to access at the centre console and I wouldn't want to try and push it any higher up than I did!

Well done kp.
glad you're sorted.
Good pics btw. Hope i never have to do mine.

When i get to the hub part I'll try and get some pics or at least a video, I imagine it shall be fun!

Why oh why did thy use sodding drum brakes when cable operated calipers are so cheap and much easier to install, Christ the French have been doing it for more years than I've been alive and had it working perfectly fine! FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

When I replaced my brake shoes, found it a little bit fiddly to keep the cable attached to the pull pivot thing, had to watch closely when putting the disc back on, so it didn't come off.
your right about the design though, for an upmarket motor, it's a bit antiquated.

What's the betting though that Solihulls finest have done a 'stick to wot we no best lad' approach on their newer generation of vehicles  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I had the same issue with the cable locating into the slider. Once the shoes are on & held in place with the pins then it's ok.
Still doesn't install confidence though & agree much better with a cable operated caliper.
Plenty of video clips around showing the setup.

Hi
I am working on the handbrake cable replacement, and i am Looking where this special pin Is located ?
I have read all the threats and di not have any answeer ?
Is anybody get a photo or a drawing showing this pin location?

Thanks for your help RR 2005 td6 HSE 197000 km
Volvo V70 D5 205 cv 2010
911-996 2001
Mini Clubman 2009
Fiat Panda 1991

Finally i do it without pin, using a piece of wood to maintain the cable connector out of main cable pressure,
Job is done. RR 2005 td6 HSE 197000 km
Volvo V70 D5 205 cv 2010
911-996 2001
Mini Clubman 2009
Fiat Panda 1991

Hey. Ive got an issue with my handbrake cable on my L322. I've adjusted the handbrake pads right up and backed off 3 - 4 notches, recommended is 8, I know.. but still have a slack handle.. only engages high up in the travel. The drivers side rear wheel rattles too whenever I hit a bump in the road. I think its the end of the handbrake cable flapping around against the internal handbrake lever mechanism.. I say this cos when I reef up the handle while driving the rattling stops. I suspect a stretched cable. I keep getting told its auto adjusting and doesn't need any adjustment except for the normal " flat blade screwdriver in the 6 o'clock hole". So I'm at a bit of a loss. Handbrake cable? or something else?
Thanx Matt

Ok, I've since lifted the rear of the console with the handle down, to reveal the cable linkage and found that the whole thing is tilted probably as far as it can go. 1 side is tightish but not actually activating the brake.. and the other side, drivers side, is so loose that when I push the tilt mech down with my finger to level it out, I can grab the ball end of the cable and pull it up about 40mm above the mech itself.. So there's def something wrong here. My first thought was that the ball had slipped up the cable, but on comparison with the other side, looks ok. I'll have to recheck the fitment of the other end in the handbrake drum, may have stuffed that up.