Well after a quiet few months the old girl has decided it was time for a little issue to keep me interested !
I am pretty certain my chain guides have collapsed so its off to a mates garage for surgery.
I have a couple of questions if anyone can help.

http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/timing-chain-l322-p-34859.html
Does that kit cover everything I need ?

And does anyone know if theres a difference in the cheap locking kits off

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/13pc-BMW-Engine-...Swo4pYIv8~

Is that any good?

Thanks

Hi mick,

Just catching up on your other post. Would be really grateful for details of your analysis on what happened and what needs doing. Am trying to find a BMW engine specialist who isn't afraid of LPG down here in bristol. Anyone know one?

I think that will do the job. Can't really confirm every part, but that looks comprehensive. I think there were a few older threads with a list or two.
In addition to the camshaft locking tool kit, you will need the crank nut turning tool. It's a plate that bolts onto the crankshaft, where the removed crankwheel was, it has a long bar welded to it. This is rotated to lock against the subframe, in order to remove the crank nut, (with a pole!) necessary to remove the lower timing cover.
I've seen them on eBay for about £50 -can be sold on obviously. Don't risk shearing the small setting pin in the locking kit to hold engine as you undo it. It could break and that's too dangerous to the engine.
It can all be done with engine and front panel attached, just radiator and fan off.
Add to your list, and search forum for vanos solenoid return valve seals. (X2) They are about £3 each, and easy, but carefully put behind the vanos solenoids. And, take a good opportunity to renew you vanos gear seals. Another (approx) £120 including the tool, and your engine will sound as good as it was a very long time ago. The icing on the cake, might be a lower temp thermostat kit at about £50.
It's a satisfying job when completed.

Thanks for the reply John,

I was hoping you would be along after I read your postings on the subject.

I have never had any Vanos noise at all on my car would you still do the seals ?

I have just done mine if you have a look at a few posts into the thread below.
There are a couple of different timing kits relating to the vanos setting jigs depending on year, I think they change after 2003 but double check. You will also need the correct loctite sealer for the cam covers.
I had my cam covers blasted and powder coated and purchased my vanos seals and press tool from beisan.
I also purchased the crank locking tool but it is all in thecthread below

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post416694.html#416694

when i did my chain job, i didnt know the state of the vanos seals. it wasnt a particularly easy job, but following the guide, hooking out the old, and carefully placing in the new, isnt too hard, but then the 'setting' of the units, ie you use this tool to crush the units, to make the seals 'seal' is a big job, in that you need access to a decent sized vice, on a decent bench, and a five foot pole!. not a little thing in a wooden shed, as you need the pole and a lot of force, to set them, and a shed would/might just twist and collapse.
however, if at a later date, you did want to do the vanos seals, it doesnt involve a complete stripdown, like the chain, only the rocker covers off, and chain locking tools. so bear it in mind. you still have to 'set' the vanos cogs, mine didnt register zero ohms, on a meter, -many didnt, but i was happy they were 'right back'

Im still happy i did the whole job, as my engine, for 167k, sounds perfect, at speed, and idle.
i cant remember what RTV selant i used, but it was i think loctite, and was black! but the tip is to clean all oil from any faces, on all the seals and especially on each corner joint, to wipe in some, to seal the possibilty of leaks. although my engine is now dirty-ish. it did look good, and I too, paintstripped the rocker covers, and lightly polished them, on a rough buffer, and laquered them, but silver or black-crackle finish would look good.
its a satifying job, and a little long winded, but its a bit like a life-saver for the engine, and gives it a huge 'guarantee'
keeping all the invoices, proves to the new buyer too.

I agree on the vanos, i have a fairly good vice, used the 5 ft pole from the crank bolt tool so was easy but the seals were fiddly, the harder plastic ring i killed one trying to get it in but luckily had bought the spare recommended by beisan.

The sealant is loctite 5900 or STC50550

i had a spare set of cam covers that i had blasted and powder coated which made the job a lot quicker and the cam cover seals fitted and stayed in place really well when refitting.

I didn't get continuity on either vanos unit just but just turned it back hard against it's stop as you did