miggit wrote:

Well normal should be around 75 - 100 degrees centigrade, as long as your over 70 then I wouldn't worry, if it's below then I'd be looking at the EGR thermostat and then the engine thermostat... but the EGR one is way easier to get at

^^ well in an ideal world the thermostat would hold the engine at exactly the correct temperature...... But in reality the operation of a thermostat isn't quite so quick.....and this is why the temp goes up and down like a yoyo... hence the statement 75-100 deg should be ok. As you correctly say 88 deg is the correct operating temp.. but I can guarantee that if you monitor what the ECU sees it will only be 88 a fraction of the time. This is why in the good old days Smiths damped their temp gauge to stop the needle dancing up and down, and why LR has opted to rate normal on the ffrr between 70 and 105... it's actually more than that, I think it shows normal from 68, and mine was still showing normal at 105, so that will go higher before the needle moves

I fitted an old fashioned style gauge cos I'm doing extreme towing with the car and I really need to know when I'm pushing too hard.. been a bit paranoid after owning a Shogun, which would boil over and then show hot on the gauge I dare say that LR have improved on the system, but I wasn't going to test it  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Having watched the ECU reported temperature - and with the benefit of the tell-tales in the Torque app - as I did a 650 mile run across France a couple of weeks ago I can report that once warmed up the temperature remained between 89 and 93 for the whole journey. Actually even though I agree about latency in the thermostat, I can't see how all that metal and coolant could go up and down "like a yoyo" across a twenty five degree range.

On my Jag which also suffers from ECU interpretation of both coolant temperature and (worse still) oil pressure I've fitted a piece of American kit called 'Real Gauge' which piggybacks onto the sensors and drives the needle stepper-motors.

The temperature variation is pretty small - 90 to 94 from memory even in high 30s OAT.

Obviously the oil pressure varies hugely, as one would expect, and apparently that's the reason why JLR took the decision to fit a 'numpty needle' which shows normal as soon as the 6psi switch closes: because they didn't want the hard of thinking class of owners troubling the dealers with the complaint that the oil pressure keeps going up and down.

"I can report that once warmed up "............

Once my real time gauge shows 68 deg the ffrr's is stating Normal... As the engine temp increases it still reads normal, even at 105 deg Once my engine has got 88 deg it doesn't really go below.. but with a steep hill and a 3.5 ton trailer the real time gauge will go over 100 easy...and all the time the ffrr gauge says normal It's a great bit of kit to stop the numpties complaining about the needle moving, but in real world applications, it can be left a bit wanting.

Also the temp sender for the real time gauge is in the top hose, so it shows a greater range of temps during opperation.. But the water has to get to that temp for the gauge to register it

The OP was asking if there was something wrong as his gauge stays at 11 o'clock not 12... I was only pointing that he didn't have to thrash the nuts off his TD6 to get it scalding hot to test the gauge.. as long as the ECU is seeing temperatures in the 70's + then the gauge will point to normal.. unless the needle is in the wrong place...... Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

How did you tap into the top hose to fit the sensor

Demon Tweeks sell this:
http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/...daptor-kit

but as with with most things that they sell, the same thing is available cheaper elsewhere

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-T-Piece-Te...1558189933

I used the second option.. but I don't think that I paid that much FYI 36mm is the magic number for a TD6  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

If you have to faff with the egr cooler and stat just remove them. Much simpler and better in the long run for your engine above just possible diesel oil mixing FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Ive ordered an x type jaguar fan pack with the soft start ecu I'm going to fit a new thermostat and remove the egr cooler completely and see what happens. Thanks for all the replys

Further to my previous quote where I stated that "Normal" is from 68 deg.. I would like to amend that to 72 deg Due to the cold weather it actually took a few minutes to warm up and I was able to determine the exact point at which normal was reached  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!