So Everyone, It's come to the point where I'm going at my TDV8 engine myself. I am going to remove the damaged cylinder head and discover what damage has been done by my failing EGR valve.

I'm only a novice and have not done anything like this before. The person who is helping me has rebuilt a number of engines years ago - so both of us are a little rusty!!

Anyways, Currently the engine sits as follows. I've downloaded the Workshop manual and purchase a number parts including the engine timing kit. How does one find top dead center on number 1 cylinder?

We can lock the cylinder heads in place, and there is a timing pin hole in the block. Is this Top Dead Center? We will be doing slow and steady, there is no room for error!! At this point, depending on what damage we find our aim is to remove the LH cylinder head! We do have a spare LH hand cylinder head and block!!

Also, what do the small dots represent on the heads?

Cheers for the input.

Click image to enlarge

Not being funny but if you can't determine top dead center on an engine without asking then I seriously think you should let someone else rebuild it, you could end up spending a lot of money on parts and destroy the engine in seconds when started...

Sorry to be negative, just trying to save you some money...

There is nothing special about the TDV8 engine, any modern engine builder should be able to do it... Pete

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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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Hello Haylands. You could very well be right! However, the best way to learn is by doing. But rest assured there is more than me involved and this process will not be rushed! I will ensure this engine is timed perfectly before starting...

Anyways;
I have news today. Upon successful removal of the LH head we discovered the damage which the EGR valve caused when it went into the engine.

Basically it destroyed the Number 2 piston and also left some fragments in number 4. At this point we removed the sump and the offending pistons. I'm going to replace each with good 2nd hand units. Luckily the actually block is in perfect condition, it's looks like it avoided being damaged.

So Here is high level overview of the plan. - Reinstall Piston 2&4. Ensure engine is at Top Dead Center Number 1. Ensure both heads are perfectly timed using the timing tools.

Again not wanting to appear like I know everything (I clearly am a complete novice!), does anyone have any tips for ensuring timing is perfect. I could very well be mad, but I'm committed now and this job has to be finished!

We are using the Land Rover Workshop Manual!

Well, good on you for having a go...

That piston looks terrible, lucky there is no bore damage, I take it you have examined it very, very closely...??

Good luck with it...  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

I looked at the bore as closely as possible. I did wipe it with a rag and couldn't see any obvious damage. Was smooth to touch. What exactly should I be looking our for? Cheers for the input!

This is the side wall of the damaged piston. Couldn't see any marks in cylinder wall. Slight marks on piston, but they are so small you cant feel them to touch. Should I be concerned, as I said didn't see any on block.

Click image to enlarge

I'm amazed it hasn't scored the bore. Maybe the piston material is a lot softer. I assume there will be remnants of the EGR bits in the sump.

What part of the EGR fell into the cylinder?

I've disabled my EGRs but might need to block off the hose too. ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

How do you disable the EGRs? I have two new ones, but would like to do this. Haven't looked in the sump, however I'm sure it's there. I think you are right the material in the pistons must be alot softer. I cannot see or feel any damage in the bores on the block. Hopefully it's not there, rather than me missing it!!

One of the reasons I disabled the EGRs is the cost of emulators was much less than the cost of new EGRs. Here's what I bought.

http://store.autocode.com.au/egr-emulator.html ______________________________
Vogue tdv8 08MY poverty pack - wow

You can also get the EGR's "chipped" out by most performance chip companies for not much money, they just reprogramme the ECU to not open them... keeps everything cleaner...

I would do some research and see if it is safe to hone the bores in that engine, depends on what the cylinder wall is made off, honing will show up any damage.

Honing is done to help the piston rings bed in and give a good oil seal...

If the EGR got sucked into the engine I can't see it getting to the sump but I suppose it's worth a look, that piston skirt doesn't look good but pistons are much softer than cylinder bores so hopefully it will be OK... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Back to your original question:

To determine TDC I always use a dial gauge (DTI) and a timing disc, and the procedure can be done head off or head on.

If you haven’t got a timing disc then just use your PC to draw up an 8” circle (i.e. the largest size that you can print on A4) with equal spaced markings around its periphery. Ideally you want a mark per couple of degrees.
Stick the timing disc to either the front pulley or flywheel as preferred, such that you can still turn the engine.
Make yourself a pointer from the block that sits directly over the graduations.

Mount the dial gauge so that (head off) it sits atop the head, vertically down, with its nose at rest about 10mm into the bore, or (head on) unscrew the nose of the gauge and replace it with a 6” piece of 3mm ali rod (TIG rod is ideal for this) then mount the gauge so that the ali rod can go down the plug ‘ole.

Now very carefully rotate the crank in one direction until the piston starts to move the dial gauge, and stop at some arbitrary but defined point, zero the gauge and mark the disc.
Now very carefully rotate the crank in the opposite direction until the dial gauge reads zero again.
Again mark the disc.

TDC is the point exactly half way between the two marks on the disc.

When you do this procedure I have found it best to ensure that the stopping points are more than 10 degrees away from TDC so that you’re working on the steepest part of the displacement vs angle curve hence will get the most accurate result with greatest ease.

BTW: Credit for teaching me this technique must go to Dave Walker at Emerald, because when you follow his ‘lift on overlap’ way of timing in camshafts, then getting TDC precise is essential.

Used pistons are not the best idea but if you must use them make sure you use new rings and hone the cylinders to give them a cross hatch so the rings can bed in and make sure you renew the mains and big end bearings.

The original crossed hatch is still visable on the cylinder walls. Will this be sufficient to allow the ring to bed in?

Some say it needs honed, others say not.

Likewise, some say I can reuse the pistons rings others say not?

New rings definitely it's a big job if you get it wrong