Too old for all that faff

PnP Baby  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Well received my new wabco compressor yesterday...fitted it early doors today..cleared "reservoir pressure static when filling fault..controls unlocked..sat patiently expecting resoviir pressure to raise..nothing! Slight fluctuation from 0.9 bar to 1.4? Rear end of cars still on bump stops and front ends in off road height ny the look of it...ordered a pressure sensor just now as its a cheap part and hopefully solves the problem...

couple of questions gents....im planning on fitting it myself..what's the best way to depressurize the remaining pressure from the reservoir?
Secondly..to get access to reservoir what's the best way too get access...i now have a decent jack, axle stands x2 and lots of 2 foot sections of railway sleepers..can I jack car up and place sleepers under wheels to give me clearance and to allow space when car depressurizes and drops? Any helps welcomed..

Drive it up on the sleepers it will save your arm.
I have not dropped the reservoir pressure on a FF before but on my P38 I just used to depress one of the collets on a suitable line and wait for the rush of air.
Drop the FF to bump stops and then send it to off road height and then shut everything down this will get rid of most of the system pressure.
Those that had an ID tool will tell you to depressurise with the ID tool...........$600?

If you use my technique earmuffs and goggles or safety glasses are a good idea, and let those around you know there is going to be some noise, its pretty loud for a few seconds.

Remember that low mode is not the depressurised height, it will drop a few more inches... so err on the side of caution and get it high

I have no experience of depressurising the system as mine sort of did it for me with a few holes in the front air bags Rave says to use the Land Rover T4 testbook (posh name for stealers computer), so that was no help.... and I'm pretty certain that the iCarsoft wont do a pressure dump.... hopefully someone will say crack this nut!

FYI Rave says not to remove the pressure switch and to replace the whole tank..... but then they said some thing similar about the front propshaft coupling (new prop and upgrade dealer only), so I would take it with a pinch of salt... there is a chance that the pressure sender is sealed with a thread sealer like loctite, and this is why they say that they can't be changed... piffle! they wouldn't sell replacements if you couldn't change them Again someone will have done this, and hopefully will add their 2p's worth  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Just done a google on the part number.... that's a Land Rover number, of a genuine Land Rover part.... that Land Rover says you can't change in Rave.... elbows and comes to mind... don't you just love manufacturers that have got their corporate heads so far up their corporate 's that they don't know if they're coming or going  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Great input again gents Miggit .ive searched high and low for info on replacing pressure sensor. Not a lot of info about on it tbh but as you say it can be purchased on its own so must be removable?

Fingers crossed someone on here has experience of said job ... I appreciate the help hugely!

Never meant to post the Smiley...fat thumbs haha

From Rave 'System Description and Operation'

"The air suspension reservoir is fabricated from aluminium and is located under the RH sill of the vehicle. The reservoir
is secured with four bolts to the underside of the vehicle. The reservoir has an additional bracket on the forward facing
end which provides the mounting for the valve block. A pressure sensor is screwed into the rear face of the reservoir.
The sensor is connected to the air suspension ECU and measures the pressure within the reservoir. The pressure
sensor cannot be replaced. If failure of the sensor occurs, the reservoir, complete with the sensor must be replaced."

It says the same in the Repair section.... it does not compute If the pressure sender is non replaceable, why do Land Rover sell the bloody things?

Having looked at some pic's of the sender it would appear that it has an O ring to form the seal, so it should be fairly straight forward to replace.... Also looking at Rave, it looks like it can be done without removing the Air Reservoir, just the cover.

I suppose that the biggest worry for Land Rover, is the reservoir is pressurised to 13 Bar, and if fully pressurised has the potential to do some real harm.... so they have tried to head off the ambulance chasers by saying it can't be done. Also there is no way of telling which revision of Rave I have got, I suspect that it's an early one cos there's no mention about the front diff upgrade.... And as I have found out it is possible to repair the diff coupling, even though LR claim that it has to be binned and replaced with a whole different drive train Money grabbing Liers  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Hi

I've had a run in with inactive suspension recently - my pump was knackered , like you I tried the repair kit , although the pump then produced some air I still had 'inactive' on the dash. (turned out it was a small hole in the supply line from the pump.)

Anyway I'll get to the point - after fixing the leak and clearing the faults I still had problems (it was stuck at access height after working ok for a couple of days) - Did the old battery disconnect process and it's worked ever since.

So try a disconnect - nothing to lose - these FF's often have miracle cure from one

Simon

Your an absolute star ! Parts enroute,pressures at 0.09 bar just now so should easily depressurize..going to attempt it in Saturday... thanks miggit

Simon...yeah I've already tried that I'm afraid.

Right I have been looking in to the "Pressure Static when filling " fault, and it seems to be a fancy term for the ecu hasn't a clue what's going on so I'll have a fit

Number one cause is worn pump, there is a lot of posts about the pressure sensor on the tank, although no one actually says how it is changed But from the various pics that I've seen it should be straight forward

There are also a few posts that having replaced the compressor and the possibly the sensor (very vague) they are still getting the "Pressure Static" thing.... it would appear that the valve blocks can cause this fault too, and instead of getting air for the bags from the tank, something goes Pete Tong and the air is sent from the pump direct to the bags, bypassing the tank and sensor At this stage the ECU goes into panic mode triggering the the Death Bong and Screen of Doom
If the ECU were to look at the height sensors instead of the pressure senders it wouldn't trigger the Pressure static fault

Apparently there are a number of non return valves in the valve blocks that can fubar themselves over time and cause the EAS faults, and they are really non repairable

The problem as I see it, is the way the system has been plumbed in, the work of a twisted maniac If the compressor were to feed the tank directly, rather that through a series of valves and the airbag pipe work, this wouldn't happen, but LR have created a system that has two way flows in the same pipes and in the end something has to give.... normally your wallet

The obvious fix would be to feed the compressor direct to the tank via a non return valve and blank off the existing pipes from the compressor. Whether it is doable is another thing.... but one has to wonder WHY? For decades compressors have filled tanks directly and worked well, why have they tried to make the pipework 2 way? All they have saved is the cost of a simple non return valve and a few feet of nylon pipe... in the grand scheme of things the saving of a few quid and an over complicated system  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Was thinking that the valve block could be part of the problem...when I'm under it at the weekend I will check piping ect..do you think its worthwhile taking the existing valve block off and trying to clean it? Failing that island 4x4 have replacements and their not that expensive tbh...my friend basically gifted menthe car when he got his l405 so quite happy to spend money to get her in perfect working order..

When I got the car the air suspension was inactive.i got the icarsoft out and cleared faults..suspension came to life and was working beautifully...i got a bit excited playing with it and after about the sixth time raising her up and down she died again but this time her arse was on the bumps...i wonder if its due to system being down for months then me overdoing it somehow managed to finish off the valve block??

I had the "Pressure Static when filling " fault , replaced the sensor in the reservoir, had the valve block on the reservoir apart,
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic27157.html had the compressor completely apart, dried out the filter, did the bagpipeAndy piston ring fix on the compressor, but the fix was a new compressor.

Don't buy a whole new unit though, the compressor on its own can be found for @ £260 on eBay:thumbsup: .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

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Took delivery of a new one yesterday.. Never helped so now its investigation time I've read your post today actually lol..