Hi all and Pete

As you maybe aware the 'ang' 'over has had a resent fubar'd spate, and it's getting time to get shot, but the DSP amp has drowned it's self So I'm now left with a car with no radio, and a dud satnav, and an analogue TV which is as much use as a chocolate fire guard..... So what to do now?

The satnav may or may not work with another map disc, the one that it has is a copy, and it was spitting it out and then reloading constantly, whir thud, whir thud, so I took the bloody disc out and that stopped it's game

The TV works very well, but there is no bloody signal any more

And the DSP is self explanatory... it drowned and is no more

I could get another disc for the nav and another DSP amp, but from what I can see there is a chance that the DSP amp will need coding to the car to get it to work for more than 30 seconds, and a stealer is only one able to this OR I could buy a Range Rover DSP amp and pay £300 + And I still would not have a working TV.......


Think that it maybe time for an upgrade... I'm looking at a non Android unit (there's no point I'm selling the car) with phone, nav and freeview and all the other bits like dvd ipod etc.

The £60 Question is do I need the extra long power lead? as from what I can make out the plug is cut off and it's all hard wired, so is there any reason why I can't cut and extend the wires on a short lead that comes free with the unit?

So I'm thinking of getting the head unit and the 6 meter aerial lead only and filling in the missing bits myself.... Any problems?

Plus has any one installed a TV module with their unit and did they use the ffrr TV aerials or buy some stick on ones? Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

As you've realised the actual power feeds (switched and unswitched) are already available in the dashboard, as is I-Bus, but the "extra long power lead" as you refer to it is rather more than that, for it also carries the audio outputs from any new head unit to the appropriate speakers, and those speaker feeds are currently located in the N/S/R wing. It also contains discretes for things like reverse sensing.

There's nothing to stop you running your own speaker feeds to doors etc but it's probably easier to make/buy the ready made point-to-point extension lead.

I paid for the extra long lead, but in hindsight I had to make so many additions to it that I would probably have been better to have made my own loom from scratch.

I'm still playing with the DTV receiver, but so far not getting much joy using LR aerials/amplifiers, so am considering alternatives.

The issue of DSPs shutting down after 30 seconds relates to the start-up handshake between the BM54 radio, the Nav Unit and the original Bordmonitor (head unit) - I remain unconvinced that it has anything to do with which make of vehicle a DSP finds itself in - and that can easily be overcome using Navcoder.

Well I'm sort of on the same wave length as you, I was actually planning to run everything except power and i-bus to the boot for connection, and although I have to go past 2 of the doors there is no way I'd be trying to connect to them except via the boot

I was just having a hard time justifying the out lay on the 6M power lead when we are looking at a tenners' worth of cable and a bit of solder

It's good to know that the JLR aerials are pants, for some reason I'm not surprised at this revelation So stick on is the way to go  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

No bother in extending the cables from the short leads... as said none of the FF aerials work very well with anything else...

Have fun....  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

 Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Hi , I have the Dynavin N6 unit that was fitted a few weeks ago with DAB but not the TV , I put the cable in to the boot as my amp is still ok , feel free to look at my posts and if you have any questions get in touch and I'll do my best to answer

 Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

The only concern I have about removing the DSP is that you will still need some form of crossover in order to prevent the smaller speakers from getting slowly baked.

I know that some people have connected the speakers without taking account of this, whereas some have used a capacitor as a first order filter, some have used passive crossovers, and some have gone the whole hog and fitted active crossovers.

Good point bud

I'd forgotten about crossovers... might be looking into a couple of sets of passive ones, two and three way. And then depending on how pants it sounds there might be an active sub as well

I brought a Pioneer active sub for my ML and I can honestly say it really makes a huge difference to the sound. Well worth looking at if your stereo is sounding a bit tinny  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I started pricing up passive crossovers, and by the time you've spec'd them with a sufficiently low crossing point for low frequencies in the car (≈600Hz from memory) the price is such that you're well on the way to paying for an active unit.

It was the cost of this that led me towards retaining the DSP and using its ready made digital input facility rather than go from digital to analogue then back to digital in the audio path.

On the subject of active subs I was under the impression that all our cars had them in as standard. Am I wrong?

Mines been done for ages, no crossovers, use it all the time... no issues whatsoever with the speakers, still sounds great,

Why bother.....  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

No your not wrong, they do have an active sub, to go with the active DSP driver, only I'm screwed as I can only do binary connections....... on or off...... so I haven't the foggiest idea on how to turn it all on....... hence the totally passive route and an active sub wired to the sub out on the head unit and and the remote power lead

When I was a lad they hadn't invented remote control TV's and they were just getting to grips with clockwork computers...... give me an engine with a carb and I'll get it running sweet...... give me something with a diagnostic port and things tend to go Pete Tong very quickly  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Haylands wrote:

Mines been done for ages, no crossovers, use it all the time... no issues whatsoever with the speakers, still sounds great,

Why bother.....

Wot you've not even upgraded to marine grade speakers

Ok, you've sort of convinced me to just wire it up as is and see, or should that be hear If I don't like it then I can add the crossovers and sub after, fortunately it's all in the rear cubby, apart from the sub out connection at the head unit.... which I might just extend in to the cubby to save the inevitable D'OH! if it sounds pants  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I upgraded to an Android unit, very happy with the outcome.

Plus with all the bits I removed that I've been selling on fleabay, im now making a tidy profit

Also havent had any issues with speakers with no crossovers, and it gets turned up quite loud, a lot

I bought the 6m lead for ease. Also went with the DTV and DAB, i have the magnet aerials going up the A pillar to the roof- signals ok, couldnt get anything when it was on the dash top.

I would like it if when the DAB is struggling for signal, it didnt make such a god awful screeching noise! Anyone else found this problem?

nip848 wrote:

Also havent had any issues with speakers with no crossovers, and it gets turned up quite loud, a lot

The closest analogy I can make to this is “I took the air filter out of my car, and it will still go down the motorway at 100mph, and doesn’t make any funny noises”.

However you are now forcing the engine to process something (foreign object particles) outside of its design operating range, and in so doing you will not be get the best out of it, and worse you will be shortening its life.

When you connect a mid-range speaker, or worse still a tweeter to a full audio spectrum electrical signal coming out of a power amplifier the result is that the lower frequencies will cause (1) saturation of the magnetic ‘system’, and; (2) heating of the inner delicate copper coil.

1 will result in degraded audio performance, and 2 will will shorten the speaker’s life.

As a professional electronics engineer I maybe (am) taking a very purist approach, but I fail to understand anyone who wantonly doesn’t get the very best out of a given system, and at the same time is actually damaging one of their own possessions.

At work we term it ‘ACD’, but then I'm probably OCD.