Yes, just passed the 170,000 mile mark today

(searched and searched for my "annual thread" on this but couldn't find so starting again!)

When purchased in Jul 08 car had done 87,000 (so averaging @ 14.5K a year)

Now the average is @ 11.5k

I have averaged @10.3K

Oh, and it passed its MOT without any failures, though tester starting to get worried about rust on front and rear subframes, one rear wishbone, and I have not had the plastic covers off the sides yet to look at what is going on with the sills and jacking points. Plenty of bubbling in the rear door frames, and LHR wheel arch, rear quarter panel and LH boot edge. So much to do and so little time  .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

just run in joe

Not far beyond - just turned over 164,000 this evening - doing 22k a year. Sailed through MOT last month with just an advisory on a rear suspension bush. Current Fleet:-
2018 Discovery 5 3.0 HSE
2021 Ford Ranger Wildtrack
2019 Ford Mustang Bullitt 5.0 V8
1993 Defender 90 200TDI Pickup

Gone - not forgotten
2016 L405 4.4 SDV8 Vogue SE
2012 L322 4.4 Westminster
2004 L322 4.4 V8 Autobiography LE
2000 P38 RR 4.0 HSE (ex Clarkson test car)

Front and rear subframes are the things that will go, i've spotted even on mine while it may be surface rust it still gets in.

Probably best to find used ones and then sandblast then primer and paint up as swapping over shouldn't be too bad  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I have less fear about dropping the rear subframe given all the fiddling about I have done at the rear end (ooer!), how easily does the front one come out? Could I do this on my drive?

Seen any second hand ones then? - actually there are a few on eBay, a beauty of a rear one for £400 ! .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Front should be fairly easy, you just need a framework across the suspension tops to support the engine...  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

As above Joe

For spares just try breakers.
Not sure if the subframes are the same across years and engines mind. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Joe90 wrote:

Yes, just passed the 170,000 mile mark today

(searched and searched for my "annual thread" .........................................................

Joe90 wrote:

I have less fear about dropping the rear subframe given all the fiddling about I have done at the rear end (ooer!), how easily does the front one come out? Could I do this on my drive?

Seen any second hand ones then? - actually there are a few on eBay, a beauty of a rear one for £400 !

If it's got all new bushes on it then gotta be worth it for that price to save faff with bushes as a direct boot over swap  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

kingpleb wrote:

As above Joe

For spares just try breakers.
Not sure if the subframes are the same across years and engines mind.

Yes they are Will... All the same exept the later Derv frames have extra exhaust hangers attached

Are the rear diffs the same as well? Extra hangers makemo real odds as you don't need to use them  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Sorry Will, i was referring to the front subframes being all the same no matter what the engine fitment

Rears I’m unsure about

I'm on 166k. All three mots I've done on it since owning, apart from the first, (bought with no mot) have passed, with this year getting an advise on the front discs. (Done) and the under tray had a couple of bolts missing!
I've seen the the paint flaking off the front subframe, but it's not like it's made of tin plate. Surely, it's worth getting your overalls on and goggles, and brushing it up a bit, and perharps brush painting it. Surely you can get to most of it. And maybe an aerosol for the out of reach places.
Shutz guns work wonders. It's cheap, but it does cover other components, if not properly padded with screwup newspaper, or rags etc. Might be a lot easier than removing it all.
There you go, your next job to think out, while soaking in the bath!

MOT guy suggested I went at front and back with an air needle gun to knock off all the loose.

Don't have air compressor, but a "proper" electric one can be had from Jewsons on hire for the weekend for £45

http://www.jewson.co.uk/tool-hire/power-to...eedle-gun/

might be a bit unwieldy in places though... .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

How much would it be to sand blast it if you tooo it off the car though as that could only be 15mins work for someone and save a lot of time for you but does mean fully taking it off and you can note the areas to really coat it up as well as I'm sure some bits suffer more than others... FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.