Think I know the answer but just need confirmation of impending doom
On a previous thread i told of the transfail safe dreaded bong which turned out to be (from codes) that the potentiometer was probably at fault as the box always behaved very well through changes etc.
Now however the message is much more frequent and gear changes seem to behaving a bit weird, this doesnt happen everytime and can go a couple of days with no problem then may do it again.
Does this sound normal for a box on its last legs?
currently on 118,000 miles

Have you had the fluid changed?

No I haven't, do you think it's worth while? I seems to misbehave when cold but when warm all seems ok?
I dont really want to spend a couple of hundred and it make no difference as that could be put towards the new box, catch 22 I suppose damned if I do damned if I don't 😩

Certainly worthwhile draining the fluid to check for ‘glitter’ (metallic debris). Dexron lllG fluid isn’t too expensive either. Should be under £50 for a drain and refill.

Phil

Cheers Phil, I will book it into my Indy and see what happens, as you say it may give some clues as to the condition of the box.

If you can, ask the indy to take the filter apart if nodebris is found in the g/box.
This happened with mine, no sign in the sump but was debris in the filter.
at that mileage it's doing well, but if you're having problems, expect the worst.
good luck
greg

Cant get in to the Indy till next week, but have noticed that this problem only happens for the first couple of miles and then everything seems to work ok (gear changes) are normal, is there any reason for this -low fluids?? will be having them changed soon so hopefully it might prolong the inevitable

It’s certainly more common to have problems which emerge when the transmission gets hot and which then disappear as it cools down (caused by internal leakage) but, as you stated, a possible reason for an issue when the transmission is cold to disappear when it warms up is low fluid level (fluid cannot return to the sump quick enough when cold to prevent the filter being uncovered and aeration occurring).
Have you had the vehicle from new so you know that it’s never had a replacement transmission fitted? 118k miles is generally considered ‘optimistic’ for a GM 5L40-E in an L322 – though there are exceptions of course.

Phil

No Phil not had the car car from new only owned for the last 2 years, i bought it on 92,000 I don't know if its the original box but have nothing to say otherwise, I read a lot on here before buying and was fully aware there may be problems ahead which if happen will need doing. but after endless reading and comments from yourself and others i'm not convinced the box is actually gone,as when warm as i say it behaves as normal. I will get fluids changed next week and keep my fingers crossed but on the other hand after reading there seems to be no hard and fast symptoms of what happens before it gives up! so can only try fluids first and if no better then looks like its anew box.
Thanks for your comments its good to have access to a gearbox guru on the forum

Quick update, finally got to the local Indy plugged in and no gearbox codes at all but a few transfer box/ motor ones which I knew about as transfer motor is shot. All codes cleared car drives and changes gear perfectly, not sure on code number but remember seeing transfer motor actuator so guess that's what's giving me problems. My question is will changing the motor for a recon one solve my problems? Still getting the odd trans bong error message
The Indy drove the car and said it changes and pulls lovely..

Did your Indy not check the fluid level? This offered the most likely cause?


Changing the transfer box motor is unlikely to resolve any gearbox problems, (as this just handles shifting from high to low range) and you are going to need to win the lottery to buy a new one! (unless things have changed since I last looked).

Do you only get the bong if your go from high to low or back again? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I just popped in to the indy and firstly he plugged in and there were no gearbox codes at all just the ones i mentioned for the transfer motor actuator, he cleared all the codes, I then drove up the road using kickdown etc all was fine he also took it for a drive and again all fine, he said in his opinion the gearbox is fine and changes very smoothly.
The gearbox level was not checked as all seemed fine.
However it has done it a couple of times since last night ( but majority of the time is ok), could it be the fault it detects activates the trans failsafe prog so the gearbox then enters this mode. after a bit of reading on here I think my next move is to clear the codes and unplug the transfer motor, I will then get the bong on start up but should not get it when driving which is when the problem occurs.
Does this make sense??

Update- ok I have disconnected the transfer motor I now get TFP on startup but not while driving and all seems good it changes gear nicely, however when i push the gearstick left now instead of getting sport mode i get manual mode( the gear changes are good here too) is this because the transfer motor is un plugged?? @RRPhil
Also the when I went to remove the plug it seems to have lots of play in it where it joins the threaded bit(if that makes sense),is this normal?

^^ Sounds normal on both counts

Have you tried the reset procedure for the TBM? It's on here somewhere. .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

I helped a guy out about 6 months ago with a similar problem who thought his gearbox was goosed and was contemplating selling his TD6 as spares or repairs.
After telling him to get the codes read and working through them (it was coming up with transfer box faults) he got the motor changed. It was absolutely fine after that and even commented to me that it drove better (probably placebo effect!).

Have a look here about removing and testing the transfer box motor:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15834-45.html

RRPhil did make a great thread on the motor and the potentiometer within it which causes a lot of problems:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15193.html

and here, later on in the same thread, for splitting the potentiometer and tweaking the wipers positions on the tracks which can 'cure' the problem where the tracks have worn through and certainly worth a go for nothing:
http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15193-50.html

For a replacement, refurb motor with a new potentiometer then these guys might be worth a shout and might be slightly cheaper than elsewhere (no idea if they are any good though but come with 1 year warranty):
http://www.4x4lro.co.uk/home