If this has been covered before then my apologies as l can't seem to find any info.
Ok as we all know the fronts to the majority of the work when it comes to braking so whilst l get started changing the cam chain and guides l managed to come across a 3.6 tdv8 being broke, l asked the guy about the front discs and calipers and he said l could have the 4 pot brembo said for quite a reasonable price. Unfortunately when the timing chain guides failed this was unaffordable. I spoke to the guy and he explained that he had suffered a stroke so couldn't brake the car any further and if l broke it l could have the brakes. Well being in a wheelchair won't stop me getting those brakes so, all ecu's, wing, column, doors gearbox exhaust aaannnnddd when l came to remove the rear subframe vented rear discs???? Mine is an 03 and has solid rear discs, also it has an electric handbrake where as mine is manual, so more for looks than efficiency has anyone tried or does any one know if the discs and calipers will fit on my handbrake mechanism? Sure would be nice to have drilled and grooved discs front and rear?
Thanks

I would say completely unnecessary - so you're only going to get potential downsides - as there is no upside.

Personally I wouldn't bother

Exactly why l asked the only up side is cosmetic, and thats what l need to know, if it is a straight swap maybe down the line once the front is done make it look nice. I have just put new discs, pads and shoes on the back too. But have access to the calipers and disc at a very more than reasonable price as l have done him some favors, talking mcdonalds large meal money, but useless if wont fit, not even as spares you see. So thanks and unless l can get a definitive answer of yes just straight caliper and disc swap wont bother. Looked at the shoes and they appear to be the same.
Thanks again and l 100% agree with what you are saying. So unless it is a simple PROBLEM FREE swap, its staying with the solid discs.

Ahh just thought, might have made an error in my question, l dont want an eleccy HANDbrake, stick with my feel when its on lever, just the discs and calipers, bolt on and forget..... just in case peiple were thinking l wanted to convert....

I've never done this, so no direct help, and I know you are talking about the rears....

....on the fronts, I seem to remember someone posting that the holes on the hub that the calliper bolts go through have to be enlarged. Others then said it doesn't leave enough metal left. Not sure if the same issue exists with the rears..... 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Thanks for that with regards the front l have heard both too, but luckily got the hubs too. But thanks for the warning. When done will be able to confirm once and for all and may take some pics on the upgrade too.

Do not fit drilled /grooved discs . They will squeal , they will split but they won't work any better if at all . Fit original brakes and be confident that it will stop consistently . Anyone who has gone down the dubious(boy) racing disc rout has had nothing but trouble . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Ok point taken, never had any on any car before and I go past this 1 series mtec beemer every morning parked outside work and it has drilled discs and looks awesome, however I had heard stories from many moons ago about easy warpage and splitting and the fact that you are also reducing surface contact point. I just assumed that the modern day discs were better quality. Now I know why they seem cheap to replace. Apart from tje looks of the calipers through the wheels the main reason for the upgrade is to help with the pressure I need to apply when braking with my hand controls, so anything that hinders that would make the whole conversion counter productive.
That must be why I dont see em on the new sport, guess stoping 2.5 tonne plus does not agree with them and if the manufacturers dont fit em who am I to say I know better I guess?
Thanks

The thing with rear brakes is they do so little work that upgrading them generally makes things worse. What you end up with are larger or more efficient brakes doing the same low level of work so it all seizes up, starts squealing and goes rusty a lot quicker. If you wanted evidence of this take a look how many brake squeal threads there have been on here, and a large amount of them seem to be the later cars with 4 pot and 6 pot Brembos. Massive brakes are not always a good thing aside from looking impressive.

What you have to remember is that when you brake, a good slug of weight is shifted forwards where the front brakes will do the work. This makes the back lighter, which in turn unloads the bias valve and thus you get less braking on the rears. Bizarrely, the harder you brake the more pronounced the effect.

The only exception is when a large trailer is connected and you have both weight on the towball and (with over-run brakes) another lump of weight shoving you forwards. This will make the rear brakes work harder than normal.

The standard LR set up has been designed with all the above taken into account and whilst most would accept it has been designed to a price, working within that price bracket it will be about the best set up you could have on there when you balance performance, cost, longevity etc.

I agree with everything you have said, l was not aware of any brake squeal issues, not really looked to be honest. Yes looking nice was a contributing factor, but the main reason is I was hoing that as I have to have hand controls fitted all my braking and accelerating is done with a series of levers and cables, I can get a nice soft brake pedal but then I lose leverage to get max throttle, lose about half of it and the lever stops against the steering wheel jamming it. So have to have the throttle on the stop around a quarter an inch of the way away, this means the brake lever is connected to the brake pedal higher up so I am pushing on the pedal about halfway up the arm so you could imagine how much force is needed. This is fine on long distances motorway or short journeys but inbetween the old right tricep and the hand takes a wallopping. So I hoped the four pots may have been a little more efficient with less force as there are 8 small pistons instead of 2 big ones. And the backs were just for looks only, before my accident l had a ninja and the back brake was useless unless I was just sitting at a junction or something so understand what you mean about the bias and the weight shift etc, do all the brembos squeal or is it lack of maintenance or cheap replacement parts

Either way, got the answer I needed ref the back brakes, even it they do fit there is just no point so save me a job, might still get the hubs and arms though, clean em paint em rebush and new wheel bearings ready for when they pack up.

Drilled discs, yes dont fit, groove discs DO fit if you can find good ones that wont warp. They are by far a better upgrade than pads alone.

As for the vented rears the only advantage they would have IMO would be if you towed a lot to help brake the rear end that bit more. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Nah old 90's 24ft mobile hotel well felt like it with the p38, oh and wont be towing this year anyway as timing chain guides gone. But no caravan once a year tip run occasionally and the odd chevy pick up for my mate. It was purely for looks so well and truly convinced to stick with solids. So have you had decent results with grooved discs? Main thing l don't want is performance discs and pads that take an age to get hot before they work, was gonna go with genuine l/r or brembo pads and after mark discs with grooves and drilled holes. But now may either go for std vented or will have a look and do some digging on grooved. I have 7 spoke 20's so it would have been nice to have matching style of discs front and back. But as the fronts are an upgrade for real braking reasons will try std discs on front first and then at a later date try some grooved, at least then I have a base line to work on. Was thinking if l chuck non std first would never know if it was an upgrade or not

On a Fiat coupe 20vtbinwent thru a lot of combos and found that grooved and dimples discs did the best for me but could have got away without the dimples to be fair but they look nice and Pagid blue pads by for you I'd say standard pads should do well with discs as the brembo ones are bigger anyway. If you want better fade resistance then groves would be next followed by an upgrade in pad material FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I fitted these on mine, much less pedal pressure needed now....

Extract from build thread.....

I'm a strong believer in using genuine or OE parts where possible but I'm not that impressed with the way the standard discs work when soaking wet or covered in mud, they don't seem to clear the water or mud as quickly as they should so I thought I'd try some Terrafirma slotted and drilled discs and some EBC Green Stuff pads, a couple of mates run them on Disco's and recon they are superb, so lets hope they work well on an L322...



They are superb and work fine from stone cold..... :thumbsup:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete

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