Gents,

Typical luck for me right now, but I'm in the middle of replacing my SC's front brakes and have a siezed Caliper bolt.

I've tried Plus Gas and have nearly rounded the thing off. Before I go that far, any pearls of wisdom before I give the car away and give up to live on a desert island with no cars.

Thanks, in hope. Si. <This is my name.

I eat rat poison.

A man ain't truly been insulted until he stands buck naked in front of a woman and she didn't even notice. Or care.

Yikes!

Are you able to get mole grips on it really tight? or whack a smaller 6 point socket on there?

I guess it's tricky to apply heat given the function of the part, rubber seals, the location and the general proximity to other expensive rubber bits. do you have an rattle gun you could try to get a smaller socket on and try to shake the damn thing loose?

Either that or Dominica was beautiful  Formerly happymadison1978

Sorry Si, won’t be much help but get some bigger kit sir!

I will warn you though, if its that tight you may take the thread with it when you finally move it!

Just saying incase you need the car sorted quickly

You mean a 6-sided socket, Craig?

What exactly do I need?????? Si. <This is my name.

I eat rat poison.

A man ain't truly been insulted until he stands buck naked in front of a woman and she didn't even notice. Or care.

One of these... never fails, the tighter it is, the more it grips...

https://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&...r6avWLhKgF

Or let me know and I'll come and get it off your drive for you....FOC as well....  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
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2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
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Ooh yeah, those Irwin bolt removers are great. +1 for them. Formerly happymadison1978

Thanks Pete.

I've ordered the Irwin extractors. I have a set, but the ones I have are too small.

Guess I won't be using the SC tomorrow with one new disc and pad set and one worn one.

By the way, the old pads were seriously worn!! Down to 1mm material thickness.

I'd better use Clare's E55 tomorrow for work. Such a shame...  Si. <This is my name.

I eat rat poison.

A man ain't truly been insulted until he stands buck naked in front of a woman and she didn't even notice. Or care.

I meant a bigger Knuckle bar/breaker bar Si, and a decent set of sockets sir

A must if doing your own work at home

As Craig says, 6 point impact grade sockets and a 2 foot breaker bar. You could buy Snap-On if you were ridiculously rich but Halfords Pro range are more than adequate at a tenth of the cost. I've had my set over 10 years and never yet broken anything.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Halfords-Advance...xycD9TWoFY

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Halfords-Advance...Swd0BV7Xqz

.

Bellini

Just read your post

A word of warning of anyone reading this too.

I take both our FFRR to the main LR dealer at Coventry GUY SALMON ( they are a few miles away from LR HQ ) and they have the best state of the art workshops that money can buy - 5 STARS cant fault them and I have met others who have driven from London / Oxford / Leeds to go there as their local LR dealers are not in the same league. I travel about 70 miles each way too.

All LR company cars ( Including the prestigious Range Rover VRM: LR1 - are only serviced at this dealer )

Now the Head of the LR Workshop has told me loads of times that the calipers ALWAYS get seized brake fluid bolts -

so if your thinking of taking them out - DON'T

They always bleed the brakes buy taking off the main feed -

I know this as one of our FFRR has 28K miles on and the other one has 45K - every year I always ask for new brake fluid - I have asked loads of times for new bleed nuts to be fitted.

They tried on one last year - think the mileage was 18K - it was seized !!!!!!

Believe me - they know what they are doing.

My advice is new touch them as Craig has said the thread WILL COME OUT

When I buy a new pair in about 12 months - I am going to put some anti seize paste on the thread ( Metal to aluminum corrodes )

I will keep my eye on your process - I wish you luck




.

And just a reminder... DON'T use copper based anti seize on aluminium calipers,

Aluminium is much further towards the anodic end of the Galvanic corrosion chart and with all the salt they throw on the roads your calipers will get eaten alive.....

They do make anti seize specifically for alloy calipers....  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

As Craig says, the main caliper bolts on the brembos can be problematic. If once you have cracked the bolt off (with the bigger bar) the bolt doesn't start to turn easily then the thread is probably coming with it!

Can be repaired, with a helicoil but really would you want you brakes "repaired".

Are the calipers bolts not multi pointed bolts like a giant inverted torx? I seem to have a few of these on the floor from when I changed the calipers on my 3.6..... In which case a standard Multi point socket will fit very snugly. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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KIA E-Niro 4+
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Mr Emirates sir... Im thinking you have either miss understood or been sold some duff info I’m afraid

The ONLY way to bleed your brakes are through the bleed nipples! Taking the main feed off will have quite the opposite effect to bleeding them sir

If your dealer is telling you they have bled the brakes with seized calliper nipples then they are being quite “Ahem” shall we say, dishonest sir

As an anti-seize compound, I prefer to use Shell Rhodina II. Have been using it for decades on bolts as it is specifically designed for offshore use (seawater is one of the most harsh/corrosive media around) it works well on cars in countries with recurring salt use on the roads (i.e. UK, NL etc.).

I normally clean the threads as much as possible (wire brush and sometimes a tap), dry it and put a thing layer of Rhodina on the bolt thread and rub it into the threads. Next I put a thin layer inside the bolt/tapped hole. On wheel bolts/nuts I use it on the cone shaped surface as well as with alloy wheels there is quite some crevice corrosion going on there as well. But again, thin layers.

After putting the bolts in, I remove any overspill is it is anywhere near the brakes (even on the wheel bolts/nuts).

Also I apply a thin layer on the wheel hub face where it meets the wheel, to prevent it from rusting onto the hub (had that a few times in my younger years, specifically my Alfas).

Rhodina is an excellent anti-corrosion grease and lasts for decades, it is very stable and doesn't create galvanic corrosion. It is quite sticky/viscous so even when warm it hardly runs, although on overheating brakes/wheels I'm sure it will, hence the removal of "excess" grease after installation and the use of thin layers.

Pity none of you live nearby as my dad gave me 5 kg years ago and I have sofar only used maybe 200 grams of it . So needless to say, I have enough to share around amongst friends . MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
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