sako243 wrote:

Unfortunately even if you delete the EGRs, put it in an old vehicle and it doesn't meet emissions you're still stuffed because its based on the age of the engine rather than the vehicle (again I think, based off my own research rather than what someone said). So if you put a period engine in then you need to meet emissions for the period engine, if you put a Euro 6 engine into a series 1 you need to meet Euro 6 standards.

Think that you need to read the reg's again buddy, if you put a new engine in an old car then it has to meet the emission standards for the age of the car....... however if you put an old engine in a new car then it has to meet the emission standards of the year that the engine was manufactured........ that's a win win, if you can be bothered to go through all the hassle of the engine change and integration

now running on the logic that the EGR's are eltriceral, and that they supply a signal back to the ECU to report on which state they are in, can it not be faked? My other car ( sorry can't name it, or Pete will go in to one, but it's a tri-pointed badge ) has electronic operated swirl flaps but they have found that you can do away with them and fool the system with a resister I think that the EGR is of a similar design..... but I'm still sorting out other things before I get around to open engine surgery...... anyway it's running too well at the moment and returning 37 MPG  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Its on my bucket list, either a TDV8 Defender or an electric one. Thought the emissions stuff was a bit odd, might re read it if I can ever be bothered.

Anything can be faked, what was surprising me was that the motors only had two connections, unless they're using the casing for earth but given it appears to be cast aluminium that would surprise me. I would have assumed that they were stepper motors but that doesn't appear to be the case, I haven't tried donning up the motors so its conceivable they take LIN or CAN input, unlikely CAN since the wires weren't set up as a diff pair.

All that led me to assume they were monitoring position via some other means. Once I've got it back together I may investigate further. Ed

Forgot they could also be doing load sensing on the motor. Ed

Got a feeling that they is either open or closed and there is nothing in between except when they are all crudded up

I know that the Merc system is either open or closed, it just needs to see some thing around 5 volts on the return, hence the resistor.... happy ECU, no orange EML and a happy engine cos it hasn't got fight all the Euro emission crap that's been added  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Mikey wrote:

Haylands wrote:

"and a few tuners I have spoke to do not advise blanking the EGR system on the TDV8"

I'm not doubting they told you that but I do wonder how they got to that decision...??? Did they do it to several TDV8's and they blew up...!!!!

Or is it the case with "tuners" and "engineers" that if they aren't able to do it, then it "shouldn't" be done...???

They probably tried and realised that they couldn't stop it throwing up fault codes as the system was more clever than they were, so just decreed it shouldn't be done....

Wow. Really?

Not going to start throwing names around, but they are one of the most highly regarded Land Rover tuning specialists in the country. They said it could be done, and without issue, but advised me not to. They have mapped 3 of my own cars now, if they advise against it, I'd take their word over an Internet "expert"

Quote:

I don't, however, believe everything I read and I certainly don't believe everything I'm told..........

Your the BEST PETE

Like you bud, I fail to see how an engine that requires a good supply of clean air will run well when it's forced to breath some of the exhaust..... it just doesn't make any seance

Having been doing a fair bit of searching about VGT turbo faults.... the biggest cause of failure is soot clogging up the works..... just about the same as the EGR's..... from what I can see you need to replace the missing sulphur in the fuel with either an additive or 2 stroke oil.... this would appear to be the best long term remedy. If you can keep the engine looking like it's just left the factory inside , then everything should work.....

When the vanes get clogged up and stop moving in the turbo, it causes over boost... which leads to things going pop and Some cars appear to have a boost censor that detects the overboost and puts the engine in to limp mode.... Land Rover seam to have done away with this and just rely on the the induction system exploding resulting in a limp engine  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I don't think you will have much trouble, your engine will get a good work out towing the crappers around...

Most of these EGR type issues seem to happen to cars that rarely go over 2000rpm, probably because they don't self clean or get a good work out...

Anyway, what do I care, I don't use the devils fuel....  Pete
I now have permission from the boss to use Y.O.L.O. Enjoy life
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Based solely on the IID Tool readout the EGRs on the TDV8 are not just open or closed as it reports a percentage and I've seen it reporting that on test drives when I was evaluating the EGRs.

However mechanically I currently don't understand how it does it.

Pete - I seem to remember you saying on a particular thread I've been visiting recently you wished you had a diesel simply so you could replace the EGRs

And with regards to overboost miggit the TDV8 does appear to have one as when my intercooler hose split there was a fault logged stating one of the turbos had overboosted. Didn't through up an engine warning light though. Ed

Well I don't reckon much on L/R software then.... a pal of mine has just copped hold of a VW Touareg and that keeps on going in to limp mode rather than blow everything to pieces But we don't care cos there's a cheap fix with Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner and some rubber gloves OO ER Matron  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

You'll quickly realise that most car manufacturers can't or don't write software particularly well.

My limited experience so far of Land River's is that it tends to carry on going rather than limp at the first sign of trouble (almost as if they expect people to have some mechanical sympathy and common sense). When it starts telling you stuff then you really need to start paying attention!

Of the two modes I'd prefer the latter if I was doing something more adventurous. Which after all Land Rover pride themselves on the cars being capable of, even if no one uses them for that. When my pipe split I just kept the revs down so off the boost as much as possible so I could get somewhere safe at normal motorway speeds rather than limping down to 30 or 50mph at 2am on the M6 where most people were zooming along at that time. Ed