Hi all,

Having just sold my 2003 Jag XJ, which is being collected tonight, I'd been thinking about an L322 as a replacement. I loved the Jag, but needed more load space, so the L322 seemed like a good option. I saw one which was a complete mess - damaged trim, wrong ride height, noisy suspension, broken lamps and more. Then went to see a local car which I just put a deposit on, and should collect in a few days when the owner has removed his private plate.

No pics yet, but what I know so far:

2003 4.4 Vogue
Black (is that Java Black?)
LPG with a BRC system, seems to work well
Factory entertainment with analogue TV and DSP
Parchment or Ivory piped in black
Heated steering wheel
Parrot BT kit, seems disconnected though

A service - need to check, but oil and filters. I'll get my local specialist, Aylmer, to do this and check the whole thing over - budget �350
LPG service - no record of it ever being done sadly. Local BRC place quoted �150 for full service with filters
Exhaust blow, somewhere in the middle - split cat perhaps? Budget �50 and hope
Wiper motor - it's a bit floppy at the top of its travel and there's no water flow, so budget to replace it �150
Compressor - it was slow to come to off road height, and to recover from access mode, and the compressor is a bit noisy. Same as the Jag compressor, so I can rebuild or replace. I didn't check, but I expect its been relocated away from the LPG tank which may explain some of the noise. Budget �35 for Andy's kit
Rear heated seats - no lights come on at all. Of course I'm hoping its a fuse...

Drivers seat valance - not cracked, but come away from its mounting. I'm guessing tabs broken off? �85 if I have to replace but I bet I can fix it somehow!
Driver's seat bolster a bit worn. Furniture clinic kit in the summer perhaps, I'll see how it cleans up.
Left dash walnut trim has had a phone mount. This will annoy me unless I can re-use it. �50 from ebay
LCD is missing pixels. This kit looks decent and I'm ok with electronics: http://www.diyspareparts.net/rover.html �40
While the Foundry finish parts of the dash are good, the rear panel for the heated seat switches and the front fixed cup holder are going bad. I'll probably paint these for now
Driver's side window switch panel has the rubber finish going. I may attempt to refinish or buy wood overlays. Same with the steering wheel spokes.

Welcome to the forum

Sounds like a decent list of jobs to keep you busy

Sounds like you need to live long and prosper!

Welcome  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

Sounds cool. V8 ace!

Pretty sure it'll be Java black same as our 2003 l322.

Regarding the foundry finish, our rear heated switch area was a right mess, and it's fairly easy to dismantle and spray with a can of jollop for a couple of quid. I managed to find a good, textured match from halfords, and I'll dig it out over the weekend and let you know what it was.

Drivers seat surrounds are about 130 quid on eBay..

Alymer have a good reputation and I've used them for parts supply in the past- I'd be interested in your experience of them carrying out any work, as I may need to use them soon to sort a knocking noise out. 2010 L322 Autobiography Black Edition
1975 Land Rover

Thanks all. First task will be some major cleaning!

Martin at Aylmer spent maybe 20 minutes this morning talking me through servicing options. He does seem to know his stuff!

How can I tell the difference between Parchment and Ivory?

Welcome Bud, Land Rover Indys.... there are 3 in your area Aylmers as you say, but there is also http://www.benington4x4centre.co.uk/ , I've not heard a bad word about them and there is also http://www.gandgautomotive.co.uk/ , who are top notch... in fact one or both worked for Aylmers in the past! I'd be inclined to get a quote from them all, you might get it cheaper

You don't say which wiper(s) that are wobbly, and with no water.... the rear has a bad reputation for malfunctioning.. which includes the washer part.. but we have sorted a fix for that, under �5

Reversing camera is a doddle there is a good write up here http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic24647.html Read it all cos I did it slightly different, and saved heaps in the process, more info here http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic37019.html and there is a pin out diagram in this post http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic36466.html

Drivers valance might just have come detached at the front... it has a very dodgy plastic clip arrangement that can ping off and it all goes Pete Tong.... However my seat has done this twice without braking so all is not lost, yet

And one last thing.... if you intend to do any work yourself, and it sounds like you do, get a Gap IID Tool, it is the next best thing to the Land Rover kit, at a fraction of the price.... It will allow you to change settings for keys, height, bulb monitoring etc. there ain't nothing like it... except the dealer, and they want paying for the privilege

Lastly if your stuck, ask, someone will know, and if your really lucky they'll reply too  Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

Thanks for the advice! Aylmer is very convenient as I drive past every day on the school run, but I'll call the others too.

It's the rear wiper. I suspect the white fibre gear is knackered at the start of the travel, but the lack of water can be a bunch of things but I need to get in there to see.

I'd like am IID tool if budget permits!

Can't wait to get my hands on it!

i have an lpg similar year car. i have been quoted about '�100 for an LPG service', maybe thats filters on top, and that will be with vat, say �150. and good for 2 years i was told.
my car has 165k on it, and that means, 100k on lpg setup. from history. drives perfect. i have changed the suspension pump, for new one. �300 as i changed the seal and didnt get a satified result. what happens, is the pump up time is calibrated, if it doesnt reach height within a certain time, it throws itself into a wobbler, and you might need to have it reset, which involves a diagnostic tool. these are perhaps the best investment, especially if you save on some other work, like some detailing, or bumper tidy-up. You might have not yet splashed out on.
keep an eye on coolant level, read up on the PCV (breather unit) hoses at back of engine... and soft heater hoses, again at back of engine. access by removing pollen filter unit.
i dont get any codes, using my lpg. but, expect perhaps something to do with O2 sensor, if you have an exhaust problem. get a free exhaust check, when at say kwikfit, and when he takes you underneath to show you, take a picture, and then post here, or find someone local that can weld it. Often the cats, crack at the welded joins, and can be repaired easily, by taking off the exhaust. the exhaust is one whole unit, (massive) and obviously expensive, yours should not have any clamp joins, but some do have clamped repairs, and these need looking at first. however, people sell exhausts, on Ebay, in sawn parts, to clamp onto yours etc. dont consider cheap new pattern/budget cats, as they dont last. but consider secondhand original ones, from say known milage wreck. these should last the lifetime of the car...
The drivers seat trim, is very common, and new one will look great, but one day you will jump out, and possibly crack the new one. i did. so now i have placed a couple of black head countersunk self tappers to hold it in place. at front and top near to leather etc screwed into the seat housing frame plastic.
i took all my chipped foundry grey parts off, and sprayed them black, and laquered them. was a big job though. especially the nav trims/surround. some parts are avilable to clip over tatty trim, in say black, or wood. or you can find secondhand wood. some colours not to everyones liking.
i find the usefulness of the car especially good. always got junk, or bulky stuff in the back.. -engines, rubble.
fridges. got some original roof bars on top too, for massive boards and timber.

look up on internet before you go on a long journey, where to find LPG to get you home. saves you hassle. you can also use a phone app. or POI's on your phone etc. i think i get about 230 miles before i start to wonder if i will run out. i keep petrol at 1/3 full.
ive noticed recently, a good few BP garages that were selling it, (london area) have stopped stocking it, so dont rely on old info, and arrive to find it not stocked. Shell seem to be good still.

Thanks for the tips! It's had two water pumps in the past, and there are no signs of leaks at the moment that I could see. I can see myself getting an IID tool just to set the access height as low as possible for my wife. LPG is a "nice to have", but having had a few large V8 vehicles I don't worry about MPG too much. My wife's diesel B-class Merc does 50+ MPG and that's used most often.

It's possible that the time for the air suspension to come to height was due to it sitting for a while and the tank being empty. We'll see.

I'll start a thread when I get it...

with the compressor issue, normally if the pump is running, and you open a door, it stops..... maybe, if you think its real low, and it starts pumping as you get it to start it, count to 60, and, perhaps try opening a door, and turn off ignition... maybe you will then reset the timer, and you can have another 'free minute' on the pump..

maybe, dont quote me on it though!

you will soon be loving the drive. at first you might forget the slight roll coming onto a roundabout, compared to the jag etc, but im sure you will soon be all 'range-rover-besotten', like us on this forum..

however, the beards, sandals, and camo' hats, stay with the land rover series' guys.

we are normal looking...

The pump didn't time out, it just took longer than I expected to reach full height.

I also have a Series, but no camo gear, beard or sandals. Do I have to sell it now?

mr_spock wrote:

Thanks for the advice! Aylmer is very convenient as I drive past every day on the school run, but I'll call the others too.

It's the rear wiper. I suspect the white fibre gear is knackered at the start of the travel, but the lack of water can be a bunch of things but I need to get in there to see.

I'd like am IID tool if budget permits!

Can't wait to get my hands on it!

The rear wiper/washer gets blocked up in the shaft and the non-return valve which is a couple of inches before the wiper motor... if you pop the hose before the valve, PUT A BUCKET ON THE REAR SHELF, you can get a helper to operate the wash/wipe while you direct the flow in to the bucket..... BE WARNED IT DOES SEVERAL PULSES... so there is potential to soak the car while the wiper is moving My pal tested his without a bucket, by himself.... flooded the parcel shelf Then you just work your way up the line until the blockage is clear... if you need to remove the wash jets, read the link below for motor repair as this gives details on how to get it all apart

The seal on the wiper shaft can wear and cause it to leak... this will leave a rusty puddle on the inside on the trim panel that covers the motor. Info on repairs here http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic9792.h...iper+motor Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!