Picked up my new to me 2007 TdV8 on Monday of this week. Spend 20 mins on Monday night going thru the handbook and sorting out Radio Stations, Nav Maps and the sound system.
Tues morning and I turn the key....ZILCH !!
Out comes my SnapOn boost pack and not so much as a cough. So on to the battery charger and 5 hours later, life is restored. Did a 70 mile round trip.
Starts ok on Weds but I only do around 15 miles.
Yesterday, starts ok and I take it round my mates garage to plug in the Autolec or Solus Pro ( choice of two !! ) and of course I am sitting there with the ignition on for around 15 mins...you guessed it, battery reverts back to a brick and not a cough to be had.

Attempts made with several assorted jump packs from the SnapOn to one of those new fangled mini things but nothing.

Decided to bite the bullet and headed over to EuroCar Parts for the giant Bosh S5 battery. Of course even after we had removed the insulation, it just wouldn't fit in the hole and of course the pos connector wouldn't reach due to the fuse pack on the side. I was in a hurry to get off to a job so we didn't have time to consult the gods of the FFRR community and discover you have to start chopping bits off the bottom of the battery and fanning about with the pos fuse thingy.
In between all this, I had sent an email to the seller of said vehicle pointing out that I believed the battery to be goosed and received no reply.

Sent off to Euro for the next size down. Meanwhile I have looked at the Duracell I have taken out to discover it was an 017 model with a cranking figure of just 600.!

Received the following email this morning...'Don't know if you've had a chance to give her a good run yet.
The common problem with Range Rovers in the winter is short journeys with high electric use, or leaving the car open with consumables on but engine not running.

We have not had to charge that vehicle (indeed we don't have a charger), and had no starting issues‎, so I believe a bit of use will rectify.'

So what if I need to sit in it with the radio on for 20 mins...I have to leave the engine running ?

Perhaps somebody with a bit more fight in them could draft me a suitable reply !!

If thats the response from the dealer then they are not a very good on in my opinion.

I would start by taking the motor back to them, if its a dealer the old sold and seen thing does not apply and they would have to fix the issue, it comes under sale of goods act, in that the car should in in the order it was advertised, so if he had said in the advert or told you that the battery was gone then you have no leg to stand on but as he sold you a working car with not faults then he should be replacing the battery.

"So what if I need to sit in it with the radio on for 20 mins...I have to leave the engine running ?"

Strongly advisable.

With the Consumer Rights Act 2015 that came in last year, within the first 30 days you have right to a full refund or repair if the car is faulty.

https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer...-used-car/

This should help and there is some suggested text to use for emailing the dealer ie My rights have been breached and I expect you to repair it etc etc. Put two Rhodeasian Ridgebacks in a Range Rover and pretty soon it's their Ridge Rover.

Wrong post deleted John
2008 Stornoway Grey 3.6 Tdv8 Vogue
2005 TD6 Java Black Vogue - Written off!!
GAP iiD BT
2003 Discovery TD5 Auto, Nanocom Evolution - gone to a new home!
MasseyFerguson 152 - No electronics!! - Sold

They are notoriously tough on batteries - the newer model L405 have two batteries installed.

As above - it's advisable not to use the car much without the engine running - and if you are working on it and/or in and out a lot on your drive, then best to have it on charge.

Sounds like you're doing the right thing - fit a new battery and you should be good for 5 years

It takes longer than 5 hours to charge up a completely dead battery, more like 24 hours. So combine the charging time with the 70 mile trip (max 2 hours but probably less?), given the alternator will put out a high current fast charge but only on top of whats being used at the time and charging is not linear I would estimate the battery might have been half charged at the very best (also charging a low battery via the alternator will certainly not aid in it's longevity).

In the good old days a radio was just a radio and you could get away with listening to it for ages without any worry. In todays vehicles then a radio is part of a whole entertainment system which has amplifiers (circa 600W I believe?), TV screens, sat nav (which you mention also going through), DVD players all attached waiting to burst into life as soon as you change a button. Just to give you a clue the fuse for it all will be around 30A. Combine that with interior lights etc. I'm not surprised a part charged battery died.

A battery is a battery, it's not a miracle worker, even a brand new battery in the same circumstances (fully drained and a 5 hour charge + drive) wouldn't fair much better.

Charge the battery up FULLY, check the alternator output and then if it's still giving you trouble in a few weeks time (taking into account the usage) consider going back to the dealer.

Come on what are these batteries about 800 aph so you could draw 800amps for 1 hour on a full battery, so half changed 400 amps for 1 hour, say he was using all the audio kit, all the light and it draws 50amps, thats still on a half charged battery a good 8 hours of usage.

Its just basic maths.

Welcome to the FF world..

Hope you get it sorted....  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

If only it was that simple!
Unfortunately it's not simple maths as nothing is linear and there are a lot of unknowns and other factors that effect charging and discharge (temperature, battery aging, charging rate etc. etc.).
I refer you to Peukert's Law for one but even that has limitations as there are unknowns.
I was probably wrong to assume the battery was at a maximum half charged (but then I did say as a maximum) because it might well be less. There is no way of knowing what the charge rate was without monitoring it.

I stand by what I said:
Charge the battery up FULLY, check the alternator output and then if it's still giving you trouble in a few weeks time (taking into account the usage) consider going back to the dealer.

I would hope the dealer would test the battery once charged and if it was bad would replace it.

I think I know what the dealer will say when I tell him it had the wrong sized battery fitted in the first place.. ' well thats what was on it when we bought it sir ". Proving otherwise is going to prove tricky. Still, the new one will be getting a run to Cardiff and back tomorrow. Should I do it in silence or put the radio on and risk needing a jump start to get me home !!

Will also need to find a boost pack that will actually work. Very surprised that my SnapOn pack didn't as I've started a good range of vehicles with it including a ford diesel tranny .

Should be fine to have everything running if it's a decent length trip

Did the booster pack have a good connection to the battery ?

I could never get a really solid connection, so I fitted an Anderson connector - and then did the rest of our cars - so that I know I have a good connection if ever I need it.

I put the red connector on the pos terminal and the neg on that nut jobby they have near the top of the suspension leg as per owners manual.

In response to Lighthouse the batteries are generally in the region of 90-100ah. And will deliver an instant cutter of 800 amps.

This means they will deliver 100a for 1hr not 800  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

It somewhat depends on the claws of your clamps - you can end up with a fairly small contact area which will seriously restrict the current flow.

I found the +ve terminal difficult to connect to and get a decent contact area.