That totally depends on the car and type of set up it has. Our old LC had 250k on it when it was sold, due to a cracked cylinder block, turbo was still fine too, so it the bottom hose on the rad hadn't have blown then I'm sure it could have added at least another 100k to that no problem.

On the other hand turbos can go bang at sub 100k on the ffrr and ssrr 3.6. I don't think many of the 4.4s have reached sufficient age and milage to see significant failure rates yet, but inevitably as systems get more complicated on newer cars then things can seem to go wrong more often!

Not heard of many failures on the 4.4 yet. So here's hoping! There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
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My 1.6HDi Peugeot van has done 214k on the original turbo and has been very well looked after by the self employed original owner, then by us... And the 1.6HDi has a worse reputation then the FF for eating turbo’s...

Just goes to show, if they are driven correctly & oil changed often enough & using a quality oil! The Turbo’s can last HUGE milage!

From the parts catalogue I note that the 3.6 sump fitted to the L322 has 2 drain plugs similar to the 3.6 sump for the RRS. I understand that if the RRS's rear drain plug isn't removed during oil changes then sludge eventually builds up blocking turbo drains. Is this the same situation for the L322?

Note: The 4.4 also has a drain plug towards the rear of its sump which I suspect gets missed during oil changes that only drain from the scavenger pipe, either using a vacuum pump or by disconnecting the scavenger pipe at the sump.

Edit: In both the 3.6 and the 4.4 the rear drain plug drains the turbo scavenger reservoir although for the 4.4 it is only used for the primary (RH) turbo.

Put it this way: a turbo has one moving part (caveats below).

Admittedly that one part is spinning at 100s of thousands of RPM hence the bearing usually being made of a thin layer of oil. Therefore as long as there's sufficient oil and it's clean whilst in operation then there's not much that can go wrong.

Caveats:

Yes there are variable vane turbos etc., but to be honest I haven't heard of that side of things failing - it's almost always the main impeller / compressor shaft.

Due to the fine tolerances involved then it is likely they need to idle to cool down whilst having oil providing the bearing otherwise expansion of metals could seize the bearing, but I'm not in a position to make a call on that. I suspect that most manufacturers of turbos take this into consideration and take some measures into mitigating against, lets say, not mechanically sympathetic drivers.

There is very little you can do if some numpty (thankfully not me, but it was my Defender) leaves a present the wrong side of the air filter. That present being a sump plug washer - the remnants of which you can see below (stretched to twice the size). Cue brand new turbo.

Click image to enlarge

We have been through the cool down/idle issue in another thread. Some people agree, some didn't.

Another theory is the oil feed pipe becomes carbon'd up, restricting oil flow to the turbos. I replaced the pipe on this car, and will check the old one at some point, to see if there is a restriction

Out of curiosity who makes the turbo? Garrett? Ed

Mikey, I know this an older thread, but when you took your turbos out did you support the engine to pull the rear of the subframe down ? I’m about to begin replacing both of mine and can’t seem to find to much info regarding the best way. I think I can get in if I can drop the rear of the subframe but was wondering if I needed to support the engine above or if I can just support the front of the subframe and that will suffice. Any pointers will be appreciated.

Cmdigger... document your turbo replacement for others... will be a useful for everyone here with a TDV8. �

Sorry pal didn’t have the time to document it. Managed to replace both turbos, both egrs, both front air struts, new front half shafts, new diff/half shaft seals, new alternator, new water pump and a few other odds and sods, nothing really needed replacing turbos hadn’t failed etc but the old girl has done 128k and it tows my machines around all the time so it’s mostly towing 3.5 tons most days so thought it was time to sort things out before anything went wrong. Not to bad of a job I managed to do mine in my single garage. I removed the subframe (also sanded and wax oiled while I was at it) but I didn’t need to take the front diff out nor did I need to recover the aircon and remove the aircon pipe running down the passenger side bank of the engine (just manipulated the pipes enough and it all still works). I found having a powerful impact wrench really helped with getting the suspension apart and the front driveshafts off. Father in law made me a mad max tool to push the the old shafts out of the hub (wasn’t bothered about damaging them as was replacing them anyway). Getting the new ones in was a pain I ended up drilling and tapping the ends to put a slide hammer on to get them in. Happy to answer any queries but I’m by no means a proper mechanic. I figured with the cost of getting someone else to do all the work for me I could buy some new decent tools and have a go. It was daunting at first but (hopefully I’ll never have to) if I was to do it again I think I could get it done in half the time. All in I spent 2 weeks working on it in between other jobs etc. Back up and running again now and it feels brand new. Ran the turbos in for a bit then dropped the oil again and put fresh in and it’s been towing my digger around again so all good.

Why did you replace EGRs and not simply blank them off with a kit to reduce future risk of turbo damage by EGR break down? Gone to a good home: 2011 4.4 TDV8 Vogue SE Buckingham Blue with Ivory and clear glass = "Rory"
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EGR’s can fail in other ways, like leaking coolant etc so while they are difficult to replace, it make sense while everything is already stripped and access is much easier.

Replacing the oil feed pipe sounds a sensible option to reduce risk, is this an easy job? Where is pipe situated if that's not a stupid question! 2009 Range Rover Vogue 3.6TDV8, Bournville, Parchment/Navy
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Yeah forgot to mention I did replace the turbo oil feed pipe while I was at it (tricker than I thought it would be as getting the new one into place has a bit of a knack to it and without knowing that it took a while to figure out but all is well. I also injected (pinched the little ones calpol injector) the new turbos with fresh oil then loaded the oil feed pipe too with fresh oil and before firing it back up I left the cam sensor lead off and cranked the engine over a fair few times to make sure the turbos had oil before firing. I read plenty of horror stories of people fitting new turbos and blowing them right away. Decided to just replace the egrs as they lasted 128k with no issues so figured I may as well replace them as it all seems to work. Plus I’ve never blanked or know anything about blanking egrs where as it’s pretty simple to replace them once you get the intake plenum off.

Ricardo Villa wrote:

Replacing the oil feed pipe sounds a sensible option to reduce risk, is this an easy job? Where is pipe situated if that's not a stupid question!