 | Home > Maintenance & Mods (L322) > Engine Flush Additive? |
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| Joe90 Member Since: 29 Apr 2010 Location: Hampshire Posts: 6416  
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Thinking of bunging some of this (for example) into the engine next time it is ready for an oil change.
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10th Jan 2016 11:33pm |
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| RR P38 Member Since: 12 Oct 2013 Location: Sydney Posts: 215  
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Not sure about this product "harmful engine deposits" If you know the history of your FF and its service intervals that have been applied I dont think this product will do much for you.
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11th Jan 2016 1:34am |
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| dingg1 Member Since: 29 Jun 2013 Location: PORTUGAL Posts: 1356 
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IF the engines has had regular oil changes with fully synthetic I think you'd be wasting your time and money using it |
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11th Jan 2016 5:08am |
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| RP123 Member Since: 06 Jul 2014 Location: Highlands Posts: 187  
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Joe,
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11th Jan 2016 9:34am |
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up the hydraulic tappets!| 47p2 Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: Gone Beyond, Subaru Posts: 8048
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I would never use a flushing agent. Better to drain the oil immediately after turning the engine off following a long journey when it's really hot. Leave it draining overnight and refill with fresh oil next day. Amazing how much oil drips out overnight if you are on a level surface |
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11th Jan 2016 10:00am |
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| CS Member Since: 14 Apr 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 1396 
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Anyone with a LR warranty should bear in mind that the warranty handbook says that using non-LR specified additives invalidates the warranty. Only Range Rovers since 1988 |
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11th Jan 2016 6:27pm |
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| Zirconblue Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 1277  
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and changing the oil and filter more often for a few oil changes should flush out any gunge, using a decent budget brand oil of the right spec will do it (ie. not Mobil branded but Comma etc) it should clean it out in a more measured manner rather than letting all of the stuff go at once. But if the engine has been used with decent oil and had regular changes in the past then even that isn't needed. |
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11th Jan 2016 6:52pm |
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| Joe90 Member Since: 29 Apr 2010 Location: Hampshire Posts: 6416
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So I could find some cheap stuff of the right spec (if that is possible - I have never found any cheap fully synthetic 5W-30) and use that to "flush" with instead? No chance of using any old cheap oil to flush, even if only running the engine at idle? .
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11th Jan 2016 10:02pm |
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| Zirconblue Member Since: 16 Apr 2015 Location: Kent Posts: 1277
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It depends how long you want to leave it in there. Really cheap stuff you'd want to drain after an hour or two, you can buy actual flushing oil for just the purpose.
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11th Jan 2016 10:24pm |
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| steptoe Member Since: 23 Jul 2012 Location: london Posts: 382
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If you want to flush the engine before an oil change the best and cheapest fluid to use is ATF (automatic transmission fluid). Add a litre or two of the cheapest you can find, run the engine for 15-20 minutes then drain. |
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12th Jan 2016 2:04pm |
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| johnboyairey Member Since: 11 Jan 2013 Location: surrey Posts: 2035 
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To be fair, the old rover v8 engine you are referring to, is prehistoric in it's design, using mineral oil, and has a well known history of 'Black Death' build ups, and thus, using a flushing product, will send hunks of goo around, but remember, it was there already! It was waiting to die prematurely. I say this, as I had exactly the same issue with my old p38 Rangie. The day I bought it, I drove it home, and at a set of lights, I heard the tappetts clattering, I switched off, and after a look round and oil checked etc, restarted, and drove it home. I took off the rocker covers, and there was the most hideous coating of Black Death, dried oil, and carbon, all waiting to give the strainer a coranary! (The strainer ,is the oil pick up,tube in the sump. It has a mesh screen to block the odd shard, and foreign matter) I had to clean the rocker and head valley area, all with toothbrushes, then blast it with brake cleaner, reassemble rockers, that had all now gone south, so then dropped the sump. That had a carpet of death too. It would never have run out during an oil change..And the strainer was on deaths door. That was cleaned, and I replaced the big end bearings in situ. I filled with oil, and changed again after 100 miles. The car was quiet, clean, and apart from the usual long list of other p38 woes, was a good engine, and went a further 20k, till I sold it. I think that with modern engines, you will hardly see anything like the Black Death from those older generations. I have not used it on my l322 v8, as it is still so clean already! However, I have throw in a tin on engine stop leak ffrrom Wynns, and have had no issues. But leak did almost dry up! Obviously use it as per the instructions. On my previous LR, I had cause to remove the sump on my disco 2 td5, to change the much discussed oil pump bolt, that goes loose, and leads to engine failure. I expected a sort of decent carpet of sediment, however, it was hardly showing any. Just needed a rinse out with no scrubbing. And it was not already modified. So it was mileage correct at 110k. This is no doubt because of its twin oil filters, one being a centrifruge. So peeping under the rocker cover, showed modern clean engine internals. The old rover v8 engine, has served many generations, from the mid 1960's! However, finer engine tolerances, and oil development, has given us better reliability. |
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13th Jan 2016 12:17am |
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| johnboyairey Member Since: 11 Jan 2013 Location: surrey Posts: 2035
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To be fair, the old rover v8 engine you are referring to, is prehistoric in it's design, using mineral oil, and has a well known history of 'Black Death' build ups, and thus, using a flushing product, will send hunks of goo around, but remember, it was there already! It was waiting to die prematurely. I say this, as I had exactly the same issue with my old p38 Rangie. The day I bought it, I drove it home, and at a set of lights, I heard the tappetts clattering, I switched off, and after a look round and oil checked etc, restarted, and drove it home. I took off the rocker covers, and there was the most hideous coating of Black Death, dried oil, and carbon, all waiting to give the strainer a coranary! (The strainer ,is the oil pick up,tube in the sump. It has a mesh screen to block the odd shard, and foreign matter) I had to clean the rocker and head valley area, all with toothbrushes, then blast it with brake cleaner, reassemble rockers, that had all now gone south, so then dropped the sump. That had a carpet of death too. It would never have run out during an oil change..And the strainer was on deaths door. That was cleaned, and I replaced the big end bearings in situ. I filled with oil, and changed again after 100 miles. The car was quiet, clean, and apart from the usual long list of other p38 woes, was a good engine, and went a further 20k, till I sold it. I think that with modern engines, you will hardly see anything like the Black Death from those older generations. I have not used it on my l322 v8, as it is still so clean already! However, I have throw in a tin on engine stop leak ffrrom Wynns, and have had no issues. But leak did almost dry up! Obviously use it as per the instructions. On my previous LR, I had cause to remove the sump on my disco 2 td5, to change the much discussed oil pump bolt, that goes loose, and leads to engine failure. I expected a sort of decent carpet of sediment, however, it was hardly showing any. Just needed a rinse out with no scrubbing. And it was not already modified. So it was mileage correct at 110k. This is no doubt because of its twin oil filters, one being a centrifruge. So peeping under the rocker cover, showed modern clean engine internals. The old rover v8 engine, has served many generations, from the mid 1960's! However, finer engine tolerances, and oil development, has given us better reliability. |
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13th Jan 2016 12:18am |
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| johnboyairey Member Since: 11 Jan 2013 Location: surrey Posts: 2035
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To be fair, the old rover v8 engine you are referring to, is prehistoric in it's design, using mineral oil, and has a well known history of 'Black Death' build ups, and thus, using a flushing product, will send hunks of goo around, but remember, it was there already! It was waiting to die prematurely. I say this, as I had exactly the same issue with my old p38 Rangie. The day I bought it, I drove it home, and at a set of lights, I heard the tappetts clattering, I switched off, and after a look round and oil checked etc, restarted, and drove it home. I took off the rocker covers, and there was the most hideous coating of Black Death, dried oil, and carbon, all waiting to give the strainer a coranary! (The strainer ,is the oil pick up,tube in the sump. It has a mesh screen to block the odd shard, and foreign matter) I had to clean the rocker and head valley area, all with toothbrushes, then blast it with brake cleaner, reassemble rockers, that had all now gone south, so then dropped the sump. That had a carpet of death too. It would never have run out during an oil change..And the strainer was on deaths door. That was cleaned, and I replaced the big end bearings in situ. I filled with oil, and changed again after 100 miles. The car was quiet, clean, and apart from the usual long list of other p38 woes, was a good engine, and went a further 20k, till I sold it. I think that with modern engines, you will hardly see anything like the Black Death from those older generations. I have not used it on my l322 v8, as it is still so clean already! However, I have throw in a tin on engine stop leak ffrrom Wynns, and have had no issues. But leak did almost dry up! Obviously use it as per the instructions. On my previous LR, I had cause to remove the sump on my disco 2 td5, to change the much discussed oil pump bolt, that goes loose, and leads to engine failure. I expected a sort of decent carpet of sediment, however, it was hardly showing any. Just needed a rinse out with no scrubbing. And it was not already modified. So it was mileage correct at 110k. This is no doubt because of its twin oil filters, one being a centrifruge. So peeping under the rocker cover, showed modern clean engine internals. The old rover v8 engine, has served many generations, from the mid 1960's! However, finer engine tolerances, and oil development, has given us better reliability. |
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13th Jan 2016 12:19am |
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