+1 for radiator. It is hard to see leaks as they evaporate so quickly. I would also recommend replacing with behr make too, I tried an aftermarket and fit was not good and drain tap snapped off on first use, but this might have just been a bad one or me being heavy handed!

I also changed viscous fan, waterpump and stat at same time. Not too difficult really.

Haylands, I'm curious about the 80 degree stat, looks pretty good, is cutting old stat housing pretty straight forward? I hate the smell of pure heat my car has even on a cold day!

Tip for finding micro leaks - after dark top up and run engine up to temp, with engine running lift bonnet and with a pencil beam torch have a look around the suspect areas. I've found several micro leaks that evaporate and disappear over the years this way.

hi guys, it's been a while, iv'e just ordered a new radiator as this was a definite leak (and hopefully the only one!!!) i also ordered the 80 degree thermostat too, i'm wondering if anyone has done this yet?? it seems like a great idea, running the coolant system a little colder and with less pressure has to be a good thing right??

so what's the catch here? why don't rr/bmw fit them as standard?? is it purely an emissions thing? if so will it cause problems on an mot??

Haylands you seem to be the only one who has done this? have you had any problems at all? do you know of anyone else who has done it?

i'm just a little skeptical is all, i get home in a couple of weeks and will be changing out the thermostat and radiator then. it would be good to know if anyone has done it and had any problems.

thanks again for all your help and advice

@Haylands (See Project Fatty Offroader thread http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic24082.html - in fact read all that thread - full of useful tips and tricks) has fitted it, and I did the same (See my entry http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/post357185.html#357185)

Only runs hot to meet part throttle opening emissions as @Haylands explained in his thread -apparently a cheap fix for LR at the time.

Other areas of possible leak Stubby heater manifold connector (as noted in my above mentioned thread ) - the one right at rear of engine - part JHC000081 about £10 and worth doing (commonly fail) if you drop the coolant anyway (about 10 minute job)



With the thermostat - it comes with gaskets x2 (you only need one) and be sure to cut the two prongs off the existing top housing (the one for lower rad pipe connection) low enough down so they don't foul with the new thermostat. I used a junior hacksaw at a slight angle so as not to damage the rest of the top housing mating face - although not too critical as an O ring in the groove provides the seal (not a flat face gasket)

You may need to loosen the SAI pipework which runs across the front - the RHS bank connection (LHS when looking from front of engine) is ok, but the LH bank has to be felt for (torch + mirror on stick useful). The bolts are only about 15mm long, if you get a longer one on LH bank you got the wrong one. From (failing/fading) memory, feel the pipework along then the bolt is directly above where it enters the block.

Good luck - if you have issues put them in this post (useful for others to see) but also PM me to let me know if you have a question added here.

The Top Hose is no doubt on its way out (compare colour of its connector at water pump end - if it is Brown (not BLACK say like lower rad connectors) it will be brittle inside and not long for the world - they are designed to change colour to show condition (see my above mentioned post) - so well worth getting OEM or Genuine replacement - not worth pattern part IMHO as the Top Hose takes greater stress than the others. Howard
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2002 4.4 V8 LPG Tartarini
Have RSW AllComms in Cheshire J17 M6 - happy to help.
*Gone: Classic Vogue SE Auto V8 3.9

Most modern car engines run hotter than they used to, it improves fuel economy (which improves emissions). But in the real world you'll only see the tiniest drop in economy and increase in emissions by changing the thermostat. Not enough to make a difference at an MOT test.

Sorry forgot to say Mine passed MOT - emissions no problem Howard
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2002 4.4 V8 LPG Tartarini
Have RSW AllComms in Cheshire J17 M6 - happy to help.
*Gone: Classic Vogue SE Auto V8 3.9

As has been said there are only benefits from running cooler, the engine wasn't designed by BMW to run that hot, Land Rover did that... it was to meet the EU regs on part throttle emission so makes no difference at all to the MOT test...

On a FF the age of yours it is well worth changing the lot

All hoses, radiator, thermostat and expansion bottle..

Also check your expansion cap, the early FF's should have a 140psi cap, some get changed for the later 200psi cap and it shouldn't have one....

Don't waste money on LR coolant, any decent stuff will do....

Do spend money on genuine parts though...  Pete

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2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

There a lot of comments here but no one and I hope I am wrong has mentioned 'Head gasket'.Have you checked your oil or is it going down the exhaust?It could also be a heater matrix,unlikely but possible,check for damp on the carpets .

excellent thanks again
looks like i need to order a new top hose, expansion bottle and stubby heater manifold connector then.

iv'e already ordered blue col instead of the LR branded stuff which has saved me a small fortune ha ha

i always try to get genuine parts when i can afford to, and i'll take no risks with the cooing system.

Quote:

There a lot of comments here but no one and I hope I am wrong has mentioned 'Head gasket'.Have you checked your oil or is it going down the exhaust?It could also be a heater matrix,unlikely but possible,check for damp on the carpets .

Full Fat Ray wrote:

Hi Danny,

I have a 4.4 V8 with LPG conversion, and when we first had it it was loosing coolant - turned out to be the water supply pipes to the LPG evaporator units needed their clips tightened up - once done, have not lost any more coolant - don't know if this helps but may be worth a look?

Best of luck buddy, but I would certainly want to find your leaks pronto, and then get the correct coolant in your engine ASAP.

DK wrote:

i'm getting a small patch of coolant under the car which can be seen every morning under the front right (left as you look at it) side of the engine bay

I am getting the same - I think I have tracked it down to the lower coolant sensor (in the bottom rad pipe a few inches in from the rad). You can take sensor out easily - with system cold, remove expansion cap top to release pressure and do it up again - the resulting "vacuum" leaves just a small trickle when you remove the sensor.

Took off existing O ring (green) and cleaned up round it. Wound small amount ptfe tape round sensor o ring groove and refitted o ring - seems to have stopped leak. New o ring arrived today (ID=8mm, Thick=3mm, Outer=14mm from ebay) not yet fitted.

Might be worth a check. Howard
____________________________________________________
2002 4.4 V8 LPG Tartarini
Have RSW AllComms in Cheshire J17 M6 - happy to help.
*Gone: Classic Vogue SE Auto V8 3.9