To be fair on the Faultmate, you can reflash the ECUs and I did on the 4.2, several ECUs. According to BBS they have an agreement with JLR to get the latest software from JLR.

I do like the IID a lot more as it is not such an "uienwinkel" (good luck finding the meaning of that ) as the Faultmate is.

I worked a lot with the FM and I will keep it but it is clear the IID is designed to be more user friendly and less of an "uienwinkel" and much cheaper as well !!!

So if I do have the IID available by the time I do the paddle shift upgrade I will most certainly use it, otherwise I will still have my trusty old Faultmate to do the trick. I plan to do ECU updates on all my ECUs anyway when I have access to the 5.0 again . MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Thank you all for your help, my Ecu needed a re flash as the firmware was January 2009 version. Patrick from GAP was most helpful as my IID tool also needed an update to do the re flash. Adaptions all reset and paddles now working. A modification well worth doing for little cost.
Stewart.

I don't think the paddles update can be applied with the Faultmate (I have a Faultmate and an IID Pro tool). It's a specific variation that Gap have made to get the 2012 paddle software working on 2010-2011 cars.

Well there is my excuse to by the IID tool then  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

All the bits should be here next week, paddles from Dan and the cable from eBay. So its definitely on my list of things to do now  Geoff

I did have a thought, dangerous I know, is it necessary to completely remove the steering wheel or does it just make things easier. I was confused about the cable and the rotate through 180 degrees stuff but I guess this all becomes clear when it's facing you. Geoff

Yes the wheel does need to come off to swap the rear of the two spokes for the paddles. 2010 5.0 SC Autobiography

Right, got all the bits, battery disconnected but I can't shift the switch packs and the airbag. Is it just a case of more brute force, I have already used plenty to no avail. I have a steel rod that fits the holes pretty much exactly but you can move it up, down and sideways. The powerful video suggests you can feel that you are pushing against a spring mine feels like you are pushing against something solid (and I have been pushing pretty hard) is there a knack to it or am I doing something wrong? Any help appreciated  Geoff

Yes had the same problem myself, don't force it.

The direction to push is parallel to the plane of the steering wheel its self. Or, said another way, at 90 degrees to the steering column not the plastic shroud. I am sure that I had a look at the Powerful UK video and saw that there is a guide inside that directs you onto the release button. Put the tool in the hole and then, with a little pressure towards you (the sort of movement to flash your lights) slide it in until it stops and them with a little push and downward pressure on the airbag, it releases easily. Difficult to describe, but hope it helps. 2010 5.0 SC Autobiography

Got it, the rod I was using was too thick because although it fitted through the outer plastic hole it was too big a diameter for the inner one, used a smaller diameter screwdriver and it worked fine, blade needs to be horizontal not vertical though and yes there are guides.

Next lamo question is that the recommended connecting cable is not "handed" so is red from the paddles next to or away from the notch , I know its not Red on the connecting cable. Geoff

Its best to not worry about the colours, just line up the two female plugs with the notch in the same orientation as if you could actually join them. Then put the four cables / plug into the plug coming from the paddles and before you connect the other end of the lead into the steering wheel female socket, as if you were just using the four wires as an extension; just rotate the plug 180 degrees and insert it. In reality what you have done is reversed the four cables running from right to left to left to right.................. not sure if that helps.

If you get it wrong the + and - signs will not illuminate, just rotate the plug (or reverse the order of the cables). I used 4 individual cables. 2010 5.0 SC Autobiography

Got it thanks.
Will have to continue when it gets lights again tomorrow as I was delayed getting a pesky connector loose.
Thanks again
Geoff Geoff

Looking forward to hearing the result, please take plenty pictures especially the connectors  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Right I got the request for photos too late for dismantling but I took some while mantling - is that a word?

Anyway first a big thank-you to SCPB who helped me along.

Steering Wheel Alignment;
Although there are marks on the splines to help align mine didn't match them as can be seen here.

What are the actual benefits of having these paddles. The gear change isn't exactly quick.
Does the car not do a good enough job when driven in "Drive"
You can't chuck it round country roads and need many gear changes, you'll just end up in a ditch on yer roof

or, am I missing something

cheers

Geoff Looking for FFRR