Hello all
My first time on here folks, so please be gentle. I have looked around on the search for this but cannot find specifics.

ME:
Had Rangeys back in the 90`s, Diesel Classic --- did a rebuild myself – then had the fantastic SL35 3.5 mazda put in over that god awful horrid 2.4 heap it had.... etc all good fun at the time.
Now back in the game with FFRR.
I did my homework prior, a lot of it on here, and a few friends who have FFRR. So I must thank all on here for sharing your incredible knowledge base. Without it I would undoubtedly have bought a dog !
I Looked at over 20 cars to find this....had almost lost hope), I’m fully aware of these cars idiosyncratic behaviour (though no expert) I am happy to deal with most basic spanner and fuse issues on it, but the comps leave me a bit ... well, WTF ?....

CAR:
FFRR 04 VOGUE DIESEL 63K, genuine mileage! , All original. No aftermarket bits or electrics added or removed (yet). Mint inside and out, Zero rust anywhere and I can eat my dinner off the engine bay. Was on a cherished plate been kept serviced, garaged its life and not used that much... Sadly, I don’t have an aircraft hanger of a garage to keep her in and will be using in the winter a fair bit so I want to protect the excellent condition.

ISSUE Under seal, before winter arrives

My question(s).
I’m in Bolton Bury area, Lancs. and looking for some solid advice on :
A... What is the best type of under body protection to get.
Then :
B... Can anyone advise of someone (in my area) who can do it (thoroughly and well) I don’t mind paying for a good service as long as it is thorough and good.

Any advice most gratefully accepted.
Regards

Phil

Hi mate, welcome to the nut house. Cam Tech Craig may be able to help, I seem to remember that he does a fair bit of anti-rust treatment on his own FFRRs and I assume also for clients. He may be able to help you with this I hope. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

They're already under sealed from the factory, actually the majority of mass produced cars from the early 90's on have it.

What would be worth doing is an anti corrosion wax protection. In the body cavities as well as underneath. Have a look up "Dinitrol" they do a complete system for corrosion prevention. It's similar in principle to waxoyl but it's much easier to use, less messy and they have different products depending where you want to apply them to the vehicle. So runny stuff with good penetration properties for use inside cavities, and thicker stuff more resistant to wash off for use in wheel arches. The only problem with traditional under seal is if it splits water gets behind it and rots it's way out, wax doesn't have that issue.

Thank you gents

Looked up Cam Tech..... (certainly knows his RR) ...
Think hes in Gloucester, which is a hike from me at 4 hours or so.... but i will ask him about some advice on the subject, when I figure out how to do it

Ye,s I take your point about the factory treatment... Stiil think the old girl needs some help with the Northern salt though. Will also look up the Dinitrol. Thanks for the heads up Zircon.

Phil

Thanks Zircon ...
This looks like the stuff ...

http://www.rejel.com/rejel-store/land-rover-kits/din01lr.aspx

Now ... how much is a four post car lift ?

Phil.

Some drive on ramps and axle stands would do.

But yeah it's easier with a workshop ramp. I'm sure if you chatted to a decent local garage they'd do it for you.

If you are on a tight time table / access problems - I suggest doing the following most urgently

1. Rear Wheel arches (remove liner and basically I slapped grease in there. Check out a thread by NiceDayForIt - he had some advice about this / replacement rubber protectors for the rim edge (Search forum)

2. Open Rear doors and check near bottom of rear wheel arch (area hidden when door is closed) - usually bubbling paintwork

3. Spray some (say acf50) inside boot lower tailgate cavity - particularly the seams - mine has slight bubble in one corner and I am hoping this stems it for time being (until I can get garage clear of junk and rehouse FF in there

Hope this helps Howard
____________________________________________________
2002 4.4 V8 LPG Tartarini
Have RSW AllComms in Cheshire J17 M6 - happy to help.
*Gone: Classic Vogue SE Auto V8 3.9

The FF is far better built than the earlier Range Rovers (admittedly nowhere near as good as some German stuff though) because it is a monocoque it is made of much thicker metal as well...

I've had the carpets out of mine from front to back and there was no trace of rust anywhere inside on the floors, similar story on the underside of the floors...

As has been said, the wheel arches suffer, so do the front and rear subframes, the sills suffer where their not covered i.e. the jacking points...

I've sorted my sills and injected Dinotrol ML into the sills and other box sections but it's no where near as bad s earlier Rangies...

Not bad for 13 years old...











Plenty of holes when you remove the sill covers



It does get messy...



Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

Thanks Smutt
Ill get to that on the weekend... No idea how to remove the wheel arch liners, but I cant see it being rocket science Ill figure that...
I cant find that thread by NiceDayForIt but then hes been a busy chap on here and has got pages of posts... Im struggling to plough through... Im sure newbies like me must p##s you guys off with numpty questions youve answered ad norsiam but it is not easy finding specifics in the threads.
Interesting stuff that ACF 50 corrosion block.
Again thank you for taking the time Smutt
best
Phil

Hi - no problem - sorry for the short info on this I gave.

I can't find it now but here is a thread that might contain some nice photos and ideas.

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic7192-15.html

Basically you can get either official LR part for the rubber strip that goes over the wheel arch lip, but from memory it is a bit too short. Look on ebay you can get similar strip which I just packed with grease and slid it over the rim, wipe up the excess and hopefully it will keep the water out.

Search rear wheel arch should bring up plenty of ideas. Howard
____________________________________________________
2002 4.4 V8 LPG Tartarini
Have RSW AllComms in Cheshire J17 M6 - happy to help.
*Gone: Classic Vogue SE Auto V8 3.9

mjdronfield has some nice pics here for you

http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic9387.h...p;start=15 Howard
____________________________________________________
2002 4.4 V8 LPG Tartarini
Have RSW AllComms in Cheshire J17 M6 - happy to help.
*Gone: Classic Vogue SE Auto V8 3.9

Haylands, Smutt and all

Thank you for these posts this is both brilliant.... and very worrying !!

I have found, as Smutt warned i would ... the rust inside bottom of rear wheel arch ... at the (very badly designed) junction of the arch and side runner trim, which is little more than a salt and sh#t trap in my humble.....
Also, its showing corrosion on the inside of wheel arch on the metal edge with the rubber strips on (two of which are missing ) ... attention needed there.

Haylands !
Did you lose a 50p coin in there ?
Man thats a full strip out, very thorough ..... I couldnt atempt that one under my current situation.
You must need a big space to store all that interior clean, dry and safe, then do the work......
An education there ...superb article, likewise the others linked up by Smutt....... I rebuilt my classic in another life but had A. time and B. a big farm shed to play in with no interuptions..

Im doing some serious head scratching now on this one ..... being very time poor, with only an open drive onto a busy rd and no cover..... with an impending winter.. Its no small job this .... requires space to put stuff and prepare stuff well... and good weather.

Im guessing finding someone to do this, as thoroughly as you guys do, is not easy.... And unless its done right its pointless.

Much food for thought and resarch there ....

Thank you again gentlemen .....

Phil


Owning these cars is like owning a grade 1 listed building...
but hey, it looks great from accross a big field on a sunny day

Strip out was from when it went swimming and couldn't hold it's breath... It was just to show how good a condition the floor was in after 13 years...

If you haven't got time to do anything else, buy a spray can of Dinotrol ML and spray it over the rust that is there already, it will help to halt it's progress until you can do it properly... you really do need to take the sill covers off,

I hope MrTee doesn't mind me using his pics..





Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-