Guys this is really interesting - thanks you

Got my reading cut out for tonight.

Thanks 2002 Range Rover Td6 Vogue

Is this the right part?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9629-Range-Rover...51bf1f6dce 2002 Range Rover Td6 Vogue

Thats the bumper subframe that bolts to the engine subframe but yes, the right age for an 02my

It may be worth it to have this frame blasted and powdercoated if you intend to keep the car for a few more years. Otherwise wirebrush and hamerite followed by grease or waxoyl.

My dad and I used to give all our cars (close to the Dutch North Sea coast) a Tectyl treatment, followed by annual hydraulic oil treatments. That keeps the Tectyl from drying out and fills the holes and cracks. Needless to say that our cars lived very very long lives (my dad still has a 12 year old Rover that is in mint condition despite having done 200k kilometers).

Lot cheaper than a new frame ey  MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

Defenders on the seaside might well have been used for putting boats in and out of the water, that definitely makes them rot.

What sort of grease do you put on your cars? Sounds messy and likely to attract dirt? Used engine oil in spray gun also works well, although it's messy and stinks, not to mention being toxic.

I use dinitrol products on my mini, it's excellent stuff, far better than waxoyl (which is in fairness cheaper), in fact they do different products depending on your application, so a cavity wax for example is much thinner with greater penetrating capabilities than their wax for spraying onto the outside of chassis frames, which needs mainly a resistance against being washed off.

thats how the stuff looks like

front subframe (carrying engine and front axle/knuckles/hubs etc) No 5019

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

This is the one...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Range-Rover-Vogu...20f50d5068

Don't worry what it looks like, get it treated in any of the above ways mentioned and it will look better than new.... Pete

__________________________________________________
2014 L405 Autobiography SDV8 4.4 Loire Blue Ebony interior
2011 L322 Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8 Baltic Blue. Parchment over Navy Interior. Sold
2012 L322 Autobiography 5.0 Supercharged Ipanema Sand, Jet Interior. Sold
2002 L322 Vogue 4.4 V8 Epson Green, Ivory over Aspen Interior (Fatty Offroader) Sold
-Click for Project Fatty off roader-

If I remember right, when mine was done it was on a 4 post lift with the slider thing on the inner bit used to support the engine with extra blocks and wood bracing.....

If that helps any...... 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

Most garages will have an engine support beam. It sits on the lip of the wings that the bonnet closes onto, then you can suspend the engine from it's lifting eyes. That would be another way of getting the frame out.

To save £1400 I think anyone who is handy with a spanner will get the frame out without having to remove the engine.You could take it to a local engineers to make up a section to reweld or like others say get a secondhand one,a spit of paint and waxoil inside,sorted!

I have just had the wheels off mine to clean and repaint the subframes. I was surprised to see so much corrosion starting on a 4 year old car, especially around the welds. It is disappointing to see how little corrosion protection there is underneath on such and expensive vehicle which is designed to be used off-road. There is just a thin coat of black paint which soon succumbs on winter roads. My old TD6 had the same problem, in spite of spraying waxoyl once a year, and I had to get the brake lines replaced on that.
I hope the L405 is better protected 2011 Vogue TDV8 4.4
1992 Mazda Mx5

to be honest it's the same with most brands of car, underframes are nearly always just done in black E-coat.

The only car i ever had with factory copper brake lines was a 1989 Volvo i had. It's all a penny pinching, fitting a car with Copper/Nickel or Stainless brake lines probably adds a £5 to the cost of the car, if you built 100'000 cars a year that's a big saving. But most cars now seem to come with Stainless Steel exhausts, i expect one day we'll see the same with brake lines.

They will never mass produce cars with rot free brake lines, would knock the after sales servicing market too much. The only car that I can think of that may have rot free brake lines is that Vauxhall with the life time warranty, and even then they are probably made of steel.

The car manufacturers are not interested in the longevity of the car, they are just interested in building the most amount of cars for the the least amount of money. How often have you gone to replace a part on the car and thought which numpty put that there, and it they'd have done that way would be soo much easier..... Well the simple answer is, to do it logical way will more than likely cost more, so they just do it the cheap way and save money, charge the same and make more profit Unfortunately cars are built by accountants not engineers, and as long as the car will go beyond its' warranty, the only concern is the cost. Yesterday I couldn't spell Engineer... Today I are one!
Inventor of the 'Guide-o-Matic automatic wheel alignment tool'
Former long term L322 owner, Up/Down graded to a Classic Tractor!

I'd have said the same about stainless steel exhausts once, i mean replacing exhausts was probably bigger business than brake pipes. But the majority of cars seem to come with stainless exhausts these days.