Just drive your cars and stop worrying!!!

If they blow up they blow up, simples. Service your car as per the manufactures recommendations.

There are hundreds of tdv8s out there, thousands of turbo diesels of all makes and models, petrol turbos etc......

Steve You remind me of a young me, not much younger mind, perhaps even a little older!

Cam-Tech-Craig wrote:

Mickey... You and i will never see eye to eye on anything i post on this site! You have made this perfectly clear!

If you were running a race car into the pits then YES that statement is correct but ITS A TDi RANGE ROVER FFS! Who in there right mind is going to sit there and let the car tick over for 10 mins beginning & ending of every journey! Do RR owners not have better, more important things to do with their lives?

YOU have made this perfectly clear

And we are not talking about 10 minutes of idling. We are talking 60-90 seconds

I suggest you take a little of your own advice here, Craig

Cam-Tech-Craig wrote:

I suggest you stop “trolling” my threads desperately looking to dis-credit anything i post! It only serves to harm the forum and make you look silly!

If you drive in such a way that you need to allow your diesel turbochargers to cool, I would suggest you get a 5L Petrol --- like me  Geoff

What about those who want a decent turn of speed, but still half decent fuel economy?

I couldn't stomach 35K miles a year in a 5.0

Interestingly enough. When you switch your ignition off in a supercharged car. Your supercharge rstops spinning instantly.
i know the heat transfer with a supercharger is much, much less, but you don't hear of many, if any supercharger failures?

Some of the "quotes" are contradictory, some say atleast 3-5 mins then another will say no more than 2mins!

A 2000bhp race / performance car is somewhat different to a 300bhp FF

Personal I don't boot it 1 st thing in the morning & cruise the last few miles home, parking up takes a few moments & always wait 30-60seconds on idle while gather bits n switch off.

Like most say, servicing is important & the rest is luck. Just like everything else in a FF

Just my 2p.  2011 (MY12) 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
2016 Golf GTI PP

Gone
Audi A4
VW Passat
VW Corrado G60
VW Golf GTI
BMW E30
Mini
Vauxhall Chvette

I'm in the same camp as RJH. Car serviced in accordance with service schedules and oil regularly checked (mine doesn't use a lot). My FFRR is used mostly for long journeys so runs for long periods at high operating temps. One the last bit of the journey, which is almost always on quiet lanes or suburban roads I just bumble along letting things cool down; with the radio off you hear the glorious engine note just waffling quietly, so another reason for doing it. Pull up and leave it running for another half minute or so, lower suspension, gather bit sand bobs, switch off. I'm sure others think I'm nuts, but I've done the same with all my turbo diesel cars and never suffered a turbo failure.

From various threads on here, the culprit seems to be egr issues which causes the turbos to over spin which stuffs one and then overloads the other. So can the egr's be removed like on the td5 and td6 and mapped out ?

That's what I'd want to do.

There must be something more specific problem wise to tdv8's over and above the standard turbo precautions debated above ? 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

I'm wondering if it'll rain tomorrow.

Should I take my brolly just in case?  Got - 2017 SDV8 Autobiography in Loire Blue
Had- 2008 TDV8 Vogue SE in Java black
Had - 2007 S/C in Stornoway Grey

I'm just trying not to keep walking under the rain cloud..... If you remove the rain cloud, you'll never need a brolly.

We need the root cause fix, not a cross your fingers and hope fix.....

Take your point though..... I'd want to do a little more preventative fixes if I bought one.... Which I may do next..... 2011 Range Rover Vogue SE 4.4 TDV8

Previous cars :
2003 Range Rover Vogue TD6
1999 Discovery Td5 ES
1995 BMW M5 3.8 6 speed
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue
1992 BMW M5 3.8
1988 BMW 735i SE
1989 Ford Sierra XR4x4 2.9i
1981 Ford Fiesta Supersport

I'm asking the same question myself.
I'd love to remove the EGR from my TDV8 I bought a week ago.
Was an easy and good mod on my defender TD5.
What's the negatives to doing it on a TDV8?
I know it's a software thing.
Has anyone done it and what are the pros and cons?

Blade74 there is a post about removing EGRs on TDV8 engines on here, have a look. I can't remember the gist of it but I think it sounded quite an undertaking IIRC.

As for cooling down turbos, I have no idea how underpowered/overpowered the turbos on the TDV8 are. Whether they need the cooling down or not is irrelevant really. I remember a guy who modified Porsches for racing (and did so well Porsche themselves came looking at what they did since they were faster than the factory race cars, long time ago though) and he insisted on cooling down a turbo diesel after a long "hot" run (fast highway) by either taking it easy the final km's to home, just gentle driving or letting it idle for a few minutes. According to him that was a Mercedes recommendation. Now this is many years ago but even today a lot of people install turbo timers on their cars to let the turbo run for a bit longer to let it cool down better.

So for me, it would make sense to keep doing that, knowing that TDV8 engines do chew up their turbos sometimes. That you don't do it 100% of the time will probably not make a big difference but if you can give the turbos an easy run at the end of the trip, why not. Maybe it works, maybe it won't and also keep your oil fresh.

Just a few days ago an old work mate of mine had a bit of a scare with his Audi turbo. The so-called longlife engine oil in the turbo engines deteriorates a lot more rapidly gunking up the oil system and causing low oil pressure. Apperently it is a known phenomenon and his "normal" dealer didn't pick up on it. Luckily for him the dealer he took it to when he got low pressure warning did know and cleaned out the gunk and replaced the oil. So oil is also a factor i.e. regular service.

Again, you will probably have engines with turbos that can live with "abuse" but why do it when you KNOW the risk in increased. What is the cost of taking care of your turbos versus a replacement of them ????

By the way, I firmly believe that any engine after doing hard work should be cooled down by some gentle driving afterwards. Although a 500 BHP supercharged engine is very hard to get to its limits almost anywhere in the world unless you are hauling a big tin tent through the mountains on a hot summer day . And I guess that is the same for the TDV8. MY 2010 5.0 SC Galway green and sand interior!!
Have the Faultmate MSV2 Extreme to be tinkering with the settings etc. !!

A feature on turbochargers from the latest Car Mechanics magazine...

How does this cool down work with the Eco stop/start then.

Surely if there were issues with cooling , manufacturers wouldnt fit the stop/start.

If I drive my D4 at speed down the mway then stop at the end of a slip road the engine will switch off and could be off for a minute or so before pulling away.

Would that have an impact on the turbo, and if so , surely manufacturers would delay the stop/start until it was appropriate to to engage it  AKA DiscoDunc
Duncan
-----------------------------------------------------
If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
D4 HSE MY12
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide

Long story short, it WILL impact upon the lifespan of the turbos.

It is fitted due to EU emissions regulations. They would not pass them without Stop/Start tech on cars this size...

Personally, I'd be pushing the button to disable the system