Tricky to describe this one, so here goes.
1. Had beasty in off road height for first time in a long time on the weekend. Nothing stressy just farm tracks. Noticed a hiss from front passenger side when I stopped but no issues.
2.Hour drive home no problems.
3.Then all week been having issues. With first the passenger front then drivers front.
4. Several faults inc Trans failsafe which cleared fine but keep getting articulation validity fault.
5. At first I could get things going but now she's down on the rubbers in front and therer is way high. But no faults showing.
6. Have reset by disconnecting the battery and that got the passenger front moving (although it goes back down straight away). Front drivers doen't move.
7. Height sensors seem intact physically and can't hear air escaping.
8. Compressor is fine, pressure in reservoir good, but valves remain closed even if its trying to move heights.

Going to get the jacks out tommorow but anyone got any pointers. Even worse I'm in Falmouth - not a lot ofback up down here I think.

If you can hear it hissing it's got a leak (without stating the obvious).

My leak was pronounced in off road mode but when in Normal, the EAS air bag was obviously folded over the leaking area and I was able to limp it home. Every time the suspension raised (eg going over a hump) you could hear this hiss as the suspension rose and then it disappeared again when the car came back down... 2006 4.2 SC
2019 Renault Zoe Dynamique Nav

The hiss was only short as I stopped.

Bit I don't understand is that the valves are remaining closed on my data reader and that the front dricvers will not even move off its stop although the issue started on the passenger side.

It will be a leak

Put in off road height and lift the wheelarch, you will most likely hear the hiss again. (Could always be a split pipe or loose connection, but more often than not it is the expensive option with your FFRR )

Best to change both sides because of the shock absorber in the middle, and if the LHF has gone, the RHF won't be far behind!


p.s. is that your dog doing a dump in your avatar ? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Well and truly over thought it; take the simple steps in order = two air springs. Happily the bolts all shift ok so now just to get some new ones on the next stagecoach to Falmouth.

Going to get the Dunlopillows anything I sould be aware while I'm doing it though?

Oh and yes thats Jonah's first holiday - the title of the photo is "Jonah thinks daddy's car is da sh*t!"

We cleaned up the mess btw.

Most recommend Delphis (OEM) as opposed to Dunlops (problems with bearings at the top, and quick leakers) although stabdard of the dunlop product may have improved? .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999

Took your advice with the Delphis. All done and back to normal ... for now.

BTW for anyone doing this, watched all the videos on youtube and it is quite simple - damn sight easier with a good bottle jack to shift the arm up to meet the anti-roll bar link. Oh and lining up the the bolts while holding the strut is a royal pain too.

You missed my photo howto then

http://www.fullfatrr.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=359 .
Experience is the only genuine knowledge, but as time passes, I have forgotten more than I can remember
Volvo V70 P2 2006 2.4 Petrol 170bhp Estate SE
MG Midget Mk1 1962

Previous: L322 Range Rover TDV8 3.6 2008; L322 Range Rover TD6 3.0 2002; P38A Range Rover V8 1999