Well, I should've read the instructions properly and I should have got on with it much faster but eventually rain stopped play! I didn't realise until I did read the instructions that you have to take both the plastic bumper AND the metal bumper off which means removing the interior of the load space, easy enough, but not in the rain thank -you.
One question I do have is that although I have removed all the bolts on the plastic bumper and the mud flaps I haven't yet removed the sides as the powerful video (where he breaks some) has me scared. I am sure I have read on here that you can push the lugs holding the sides of the bumper up (or is it down) to get it off without breaking things.

That's my question do I push the lugs up or down to clear the locating holes in the bumper or do I have to use the powerful method (in more ways than one) and risk breaking a few - any ideas before tomorrow please.  Geoff

I used a plastic spatula thing that I cut to about 1/4" wide. Think I just put it into the groove and waggled while I pulled the bottom edge, I forget the distances from the edge though I think it's in the armature fitting instructions.

I got mine out without breaking any but did it in 20 degree weather.

Good luck.

Do the things point up or down into the bumper? Geoff

Shoulda stopped by as we'd have it done by now 😜

Pro tip! Warm water poured over them(boil half a kettle then fill with cold tap water and stand for a minute before pouring) then do the same but with 3/4filled kettle. The plastic being warmer helps breakages reduce a lot!!

Or a hairdryer but I wouldn't recommend that in the rain!!!

Also a VERY thin blunt or curved edge pushed in above each clip will help push the clip up. Use an old table knife or a toddlers one for good measure
And when it comes to that back crash beam make sure you've been doing some benching and lift with the knees, mine was ruddy heavy but then they are designed to take a hit of a good few tonnes and spread it across the car! FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

That's odd. When I put a mate's tow bar on his 2002, we only took off the plastic bumper. It all went on ok. Of course you had to remove the tow ring and other side "thingy" thru the floor of the boot.

All I would add is when removing the bumper, have a thick cloth or foam padding covering the floor. I had just enough wire to not have to disconnect the loom and yet get it on the floor.

Well this job is finished now - at last.
The only final query I have is what to select as far as a Towing Module is concerned with the IDTool there are quite a few choices as follows:
Undefined
Not Fitted
Trailer Module 7-Position Socket with Rear FoglLight
Trailer Module 7-Position Socket with Reversing Lamp
Trailer Module 7-Position Socket with Power Supply
Trailer Module 13-Position Socket
Trailer Module 4-Position Socket
7 Pins
7Pins for USA
I have it set for Trailer Module7-Position Socket with Power Supply

I have twin electrics 12S and 12N and a MY 2010 and a standard plug from PF Jones

I have set a few hares running with this question elsewhere as well so might be able to share the answer if nothing is forthcoming from you guys  Geoff

I'll have a look at mine tomorrow but I use the bbs system so may show as didfferent but iirc it's one of the 7pin options.

I think they won't make any difference as they will pass thru the fog light and reverse light stuff anyway. FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Thanks mate, so far the advice I have been given is Trailer module 13 but will await your findings as I don't need to use the towbar for a week or so. Geoff

Mine was just plug and play - I didn't alter any settings....(genuine LR 13 pin electrics) Stolen / Gone: 2006MY Supercharged LPG Autobiography - Zambezi Silver with Sand/Jet/Jet Oxford Leather.....