Hi, just changed all four bottom arms and ball joints , came to replace track rod ends and noticed that one had been screwed on a lot further than the other one. Then realised why the nearside front tyre had been catching the antirollbar on full lock. Now i intend to centre the rack and start again from scratch. Wondering if the rack was similar to old racks and had a plug in that was removed and a pin inserted to centre ?. Anyone have some suggestions ? . Probably have to remove and refit steering wheel to accomadate this change.
Oh by the way got rid of the lousy T55 torx bolts that hold the downward facing ball joint into the hub, replaced with some high tensile allen capped ones, so i can get plenty of purchase if i ever do it again !!

Reset tracking today so all track rods were equal lengths. Then remounted steering wheel .Now have to recalibrate steering angle sensor to lose the lights on dash !.

Good info, thanks.

I like the idea of swapping the cr@ppy torx for stronger bolts. I will be doing mine soon.

You should be able to clear the SAS with a couple of lock-to-lock goes on the steering wheel.


Steve

No I too thought that , but not the case, only started this saga to eradicate a clunking/knocking noise from the O/S/F but to no avail, still present . Seems like a lot of people have had the same thing with no definitive answer !

Is it not just a case of going through the battery disconnection - reconnection routine and then doing a lock to lock reset.

I was under the impression that the sensor would then be reset to the new steering alignment.

Sadly no ! tooka fair bit to centralise the steering wheel .so only a recalibration will suffice .

Had a run out to a independent today not far from home, got steering angle light and other lights turned off with genuine autologic, as Snap on Solus wouldnt do it or Launch, £20.00........not too bad !. car seems well planted to road and feels taut !. Noise from front end seems to have disappeared too, result !.
Still have ordered some poly bushes for ARB, just for overkill . Oh a new non gen CV joint slides into the hub without need for the Special tool . The bottom ball joint fasteners, were hit from above with a impact driver after releasing all the arms and undoing the hub from the strut and then just spinnig on the bearing with the diveshaft connected, and the hub supported on a trolley jack, better to hit down than up ,as you dont get second chances with those lead T55 torx bolts .Everything waxoyled on completion.

I would warn you against fitting Polly bushes , it's OK to stiffen up a Defender the ride is already terrible but on a Range Rover you will totally trash the ride ' kind of defeating the purpose really and the lack of compliance will over stress other suspension parts . 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

I would also advise not to fit polly bushes, OEM from Land Rover will give a much better result.

As for your steering angle problem you should have the sensor centred and all 4 wheels aligned all at the same time

Can you buy standard ARBs for the L322? I thought they were bonded onto the ARB so you had to buy the whole thing?

axle wrote:

I would warn you against fitting Polly bushes , it's OK to stiffen up a Defender the ride is already terrible but on a Range Rover you will totally trash the ride ' kind of defeating the purpose really and the lack of compliance will over stress other suspension parts .

Yes they can be nasty too tight and can damage suspension parts.

 Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE

Regarding the clunking- mine used to do that. I replaced the track rod end when it failed the mot and I couldn't get them off so I ended up replacing the track rods as well (following a tip from this forum- far easier to do it this way). I always replace stuff in pairs and so bought 2x track rod ends and 2x track rods, all genuine. Did the offending side to get me through the MOT and I still had the clunking. I then replaced the other side a couple of weeks later and the clunking stopped, so I can only assume that the noise was coming from the latter.
It feels tight over bumps now, like a new car