thanks ! I will keep the faith !!

Guess what!! ITS BACK. AAAAHHHHH

Hi ,ive got a rr 2014 5.0 sc 1k miles and has had a knocking noise from front , a whining noise from engine which vibrates through steering wheel sounds like the viscose van type noise and as you turn a sharp slow corner you get a grinding noise from front,its in now and by the sounds of it it will come back the same,please tell me this will be ok as starting to think i dont want this car anymore,think the dearleship just took off the plastic,washed it,fuel and handed me the keys what happened to a proper check over on a 115k car.
heeelp before this goes bad

any updates to this ? did they fixed it ?

greetings stuempf Using your brain is useful. Sometimes.

Yes the fix is i was told sell the car, i have done with my l494, now i do not hear it knocking , or the trim rattles or the bits falling off AND DO NOT HAVE TO GET IT BACK TO THE DEALER EVERY 4 WEEKS FOR SOFTWARE UPDATES AND RECALLS/SERVICE ACTIONS.

So anyone want an L405 AB 2000 miles on it ! only joking Far to many gone...

Last edited by tboner001 on 28th Jul 2014 6:06am. Edited 1 time in total

JJ

my 4.4 Td My2011 had to go in to sort out tail gate issue.
got an 6 week old demo 4000miles 4.4 VSE as courtesy vehicle!!!!!

a really handsome car
the quality of the interior is great.
BUT

i know understand the suspension knock issues that L405 members are frustrated about. the ride is worse then my current FF.
the screen/infotainment system is badly thought out. i presume about 2 hrs was spent configuring it.
mercedes sorted this issue out in 2006.

i am looking carefully at these problems as i will HAVE to buy one of these in about a years time.
i would be very reluctant to change my L322 for a L405. as the ONLY improvement that has occurred is the aesthetics.  2011 4.4 TdV8 Nara Bronze

The aesthetic appeal is one of the few things that hasn't improved.

The car is miles apart from my older L322's and it is a totally different drive you cannot really even compare IMO.

The build issues etc will of course ala' LR be sorted by year 3-4 just like the L322 took 5 years to sort.

However on my ( wifey) L494 Sport i had enough that was dire with issues and its finish both outside and inside are not close to the L405 and of course it looks like a mix of the Ford and the Kia !!!!
Touch screen i think they went to far and should have kept a few more buttons the seats being the worst hmm i want warm 5 fingers later ! oh i want cold seats hmm now were was i !

My L405 is just fantastic in every respect and yes it took lots and lots of dealer visits to get all the silly things sorted and now even have a knock free car.

it's just a fantastic place to be behind the wheel .......... and you can even push on with it when you fancy it without being thrown out of the seat  Far to many gone...

^ I'm really pleased to hear it. I like to think progress is going forward and JLR isn't going to be in good shape if they're not making good cars.

I plan on keeping my L322 for a long time, but it's nice to know there's a modern equivalent waiting when it finally goes to that big scrapyard in the sky. (Mind you, I'll probably wait until depreciation means I can get a nice Supercharged Vogue SE for around £500.)

in response to campaj1 - yes my TDV6 did (probably still does) have a knock, and the senior tech in Guy Salmon Bristol was stumped.

Anyway, they replaced it.

replaced the car or suspension bits? 2011 4.4 TdV8 Nara Bronze

tdv6 does not have active ARB or ARC !

presume in that case yours needed new struts which there is a recall notice on leaking struts Far to many gone...

I have a 2013 SDV8 vogue which has been in for the past three weeks at the dealership. After having two new ARC valve blocks fitted the knocking noise has stopped but now i have bad rubbing noise when i am turning right. I have been in dialogs with Customer service who have now told me that this is just a characteristic of the car, even though it was not there previous to their fix. Can anybody shed some light on what this noise maybe?

Does any one have the part number of the replacement valve block and (ideally) a 'how to' guide to change? Alternatively any idea how much the book labour time is? Many thanks