Hi, has anyone got any clear pictures of where the trolley jack and axle stand should go when jacking up each corner. Don't trust the supplied one if i'm lying underneath as want to change the wheels

Also looking at fitting mudflaps front and rear, on fronts does anyone know if the small panel on lower front wing just pulls off as per pict 1 in instructions, or is it mysteriously attached somehow.

Also looks like drilling required, front seems straightforward but not clear on rears in picture 7, if this is into bodywork, its not that clear, it doesn't mention any protection in respect of the drilled holes from future rust etc.

Probably being a bit thick here so help an idiot if you can.

Also, thanks for those with advice on tinting in previous post, got it done now and pleased with result, stayed legal, not so much as problems with the plods but bottom line it invalidates your insurance, now considering whether i tell mine its tinted and get clobbered a charge or leave it until i can move to a cheaper one at renewal.

Regards If its not broke now it soon will !!!

I can only answer one of your questions - YES drilling is required to fit the mudflaps, also some cutting if you have side steps IIRC.
Suggestion for the jacking points - visit a tyre sales outlet and ask them, certainly my local guys told me they found the hard way the first Dsico3 they had in and had to buy a new suspension compressor for the client! Interestingly when I recently had to call out LRA to change a wheel for me the technican put the jack under the front of the car and not at the jacking points. If you have side steps I believe you have to remove them before you can jack it up with a trolley jack too 2018 Mini Countryman Cooper S E All4 PHEV in Melting Silver - it’s whisper quiet in EV and polluter modes

I think member Dan_uk_1984 did a posting on this a while back hopefully he will be along to help you out ====================================

"Open Mike Night " sounded like a lot of fun until i found out i was going to an Autopsy

DO NOT use the scissor jack. They are cheap and can strip the thread easily. You'll be dead if you're underneath it or worse you could break the car as it slips.

Use a trolley jack.

If you look under the front you will see a flat bit on the sub frame tube, this is the workshop jacking point.

At the rear I jack here:

Click image to enlarge

Bigbangman wrote:

Also looking at fitting mudflaps front and rear, on fronts does anyone know if the small panel on lower front wing just pulls off as per pict 1 in instructions, or is it mysteriously attached somehow.

Also looks like drilling required, front seems straightforward but not clear on rears in picture 7, if this is into bodywork, its not that clear, it doesn't mention any protection in respect of the drilled holes from future rust etc.

Regards

re the scissor jack supplied with the FFRR, its pants...it wont lift the FFRR using the 'official' jacking points and the handle bends soooo easily...i'm tempted to carry a trolley jack with me all the time. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
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Even better so you don't have the extra weight of the trolley jack is to take out breakdown insurance that covers punctures/ wheel/tyre damage and then you can call out a man with a repair truck to get all dirty at the roadside instead of you getting all dirty! 2018 Mini Countryman Cooper S E All4 PHEV in Melting Silver - it’s whisper quiet in EV and polluter modes

I was looking for the same thing myself

Dan - what make's that trolley jack?

Dave 1993 YZF 750 SP

It looks exactly the same as the Halfrauds 2.5tonne one I use for changing wheels on my 90 2018 Mini Countryman Cooper S E All4 PHEV in Melting Silver - it’s whisper quiet in EV and polluter modes