That helps  2007 TDV8 Lux

Hi Steve and it would have helped if I had read the whole thread.

Anyway, when I first installed my dual battery setup, I needed to monitor the cranking battery to see what effect the second battery had on the cranking battery’s state of charge.

I needed voltage readings before anything was powered up, like the doors unlocking and interior lights and so on.

I ran a short length of twin wire from the two battery power connections in the engine bay, along the inside of the passenger side guard to the trailing edge of the bonnet.

There is a fair sized void under the outside corner of the bonnet.

I had a set of Anderson 30 amp Power Poles on the end of this lead and a fuse near the positive connection point in the engine bay.

I left just enough lead so I could plug in to the lead and measure the voltage before activating the remote, but when not in use, I simply tucked the plug under the edge of the bonnet and no one could see it.

This might be a way you could set up using the Ctek lead! 2007 TDV8 Lux

Whichever vehicle I get I make sure the front cig lighter socket is permanently live then I run the ctek plug from that under the passenger door to the charger. Then just unplug and remove before driving off. Being doing that for years in many vehicles.

If the vehicle is outside I put a solar charger under the sunroof (it fits between the glass and the sliding cover) and then plug that in to the cig lighter socket.

Having a permanently live cig lighter socket up front also means that I can use a simple cig lighter voltmeter with an LED display (cheap off Amazon or ebay) to view voltage with the vehicle locked and at rest.  2012 5.0L S/C
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I need to think of the best place to wire in some Anderson connectors so they are accessible with the car closed up . When I had a TD6 it was easy because you always had a live socket in the right hand side of the back but with Terrain Response the wiring was changed and now all sockets shut down after twenty minutes or so when the car goes to sleep .

I wonder if the side grills would give a good hiding place ? 2008 MY Supercharged
Rimini Red / Jet
four zone climate
remote park heater
and no ugly kid windows.
magnus satis quod turpis satis

Just back from a week in the sun. left the FF in Gatwick long term car park. We didn't arrive until 1 am and I was hoping the car would start after my recent starting troubles. It seems charging the battery before setting off and a 25 minute fast drive to the airport during the day did the trick. burst into life and gave us a fast magic carpet ride home. The contrast with the holiday hire car, Citroen Elysee was astounding. Although 15 Euros worth of petrol for a weeks driving around was also sobering.

If it's for normal charging the towing socket should be fine. If you need to hide an Anderson connector then possible look at a wheel arch liner mounting might be easiest i would think as long as it was fixed in place well FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

I have ordered a CTEK MXS10 battery charger from fleabay.
I will have a look when it arrives and decide whether to just use it when required or install it semi permanently.
I have in mind to fit it in the secret compartment under the fuse box, connect to the fuse board red battery lead terminal permanently and a convenient ground. Leave a mains lead in the same location then run the mains lead out through the closed tail gate to the outside mains socket when needed. There seems to be a fair few spaces/gaps around the tailgate. I would like to use the CTEK battery indicator set up 'up front', but there isn't an obvious place to fit the indicator panel without hacking the fascia. Bit off a pain that the fuse board cover has to come off before you can lift the 'secret compartment' cover, but a lot easier then lifting the bonnet and connecting, particularly as the car is normally reversed in to the mains socket wall.
http://www.ctekchargers.co.uk/ctek-56380.php

Do you not having towing sockets? FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

No towing sockets, and at the price of them fitted, no plans to fit them either.
I have built cars from scratch in my youth, but now I won't even change a wheel or wash it myself.

With the cteks you get a connection with eyelets on it that you can use to connect to.

But if you want to mount the ctek then be careful that they can get quite toasty so be careful.
I have mine setup as above but my ctek sits in the boot on an old unit to allow it to dissipate heat.

The power lead then comes out on the drivers side between the lower and upper tailgate  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.

Did you connect the Ctek to the fuseboard red lead ? there doesn't seem to be much thread left on the bolt and disconnecting it to put the ring underneath will cause all sorts of problems.
I don't understand what you mean about 'my ctek sits in the boot on an old unit' an old unit ?
You can get a mounting cradle for the Ctek which is pretty cheap, would that do ? Thanks for the confirmation about emerging via the top/bottom tailgate, that is what I intend.

Has anybody altered the 12V socket adjacent to the fuseboard on the offside wheel arch to be permanently live ?
How did you do it ?

mine is already ,isnt yours? ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

I have just checked it again and it is permanently live. The lamp I tested it with before is faulty, I used a Voltmeter and it is live.
I was going to buy a Ctek cigar socket lead, but the Ctek site states 'up to 7A only' e.g. not suitable for a 10 amp charger.
CTEK CIGLEAD General Information
•Quick and easy to use
•Quick fit connector to connect to charger
•Suitable for use with Comfort Connect compatible chargers up to 7 amp charge current including: ◦XC 0.8
◦XS 0.8
◦MXS 3.6, MXS 5.0, MXS 5.0 Test and Charge, MXS 7.0
◦M45, M100

•Compatible with standard car cigar lighter sockets.
•Red cap can be removed to make adaptor compatible with Hella/DIN accessory sockets.


Back to plan A.

It would be ok for trickle charging it but if the battery if low it will just push to much juice thru the cabling although its fuses at 15 i think this takes into account it supplies multiple sockets.

I'll take pictures of my current setup when im at home later.

IIRC i bent the eyelet a little but had loads of thread left.
Also my battery was dead and out of the car at the time so was easy enough to cable in  FFRR MY06 facelift With TDV8 Alloys Zeros/ATR's
Mantec Sump Guard, Rigid Load liner, MY10 BT upgrade.