I Have just done this so thought i would do a quick write up, pretty similar to the one for pad change i did a few months back but here goes.

Tools required:
Jack
Axle stands
wheel chock (should be one in the boot)
wheel brace

13mm Spanner
11mm spanner
14mm socket
Thin Jawed adjustable spanner
hammer, you always need a hammer.
medium sized G clamp
hose clamp pliers

flat head screwdriver.

parts needed:
Replacement pads
replacement wear sensor (optional if intact)
copper grease or better non metalic paste
penetrating oil
brake cleaner
new calliper - managed to get one from ECP, paged remanufactured so the housing is probably original but cleaned up. from memory it worked out at £50-£60 after you factor in a discount code like ukpas25, and the fact you get £28 incl vat back when you take in your old one.

Method I used
1. Crack off the wheel nuts but leave finger tight.
2. Chock a wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle
3. locate jack in the jacking point and raise the vehicle to a height where an axle stand will fit under it.
4. remove the wheel

5. apply some penetrating oil to the bolts retaining the calliper and leave to do its work.

6. clamp the brake hose with the hose clamp pliers. and carefully unclip the wear sensor (drivers side) don't lose the little metal contact from the wear sensor if you manage to get it off.

7. remove the banjo fitting for the brake hose from the caliper using a 14mm socket/spanner. retain the copper washers from the fitting.



8. the calipers are held on with 2 x 13mm bolts, these in turn are screwed into a sliding pin which allows the caliper to move, the sliding pin needs holding steady with a set of thin jawed adjustables or a thin spanner, I think it is a 15mm ish.


(thats refitting but you get the idea, and note the hose clamp pliers in the background)

9. remove the 13mm bolts and slide off the calliper,

10. the old pads can now be removed. they may take some persuading, hence the hammer

11. gently remove the anti rattle clips, and clean them up with the brake cleaner and the flat head screwdriver

12. clean the area where the clips sit on the calliper bracket, corrosion can build up and make the new pads difficult to fit.

13. refit the retaining clips into the claiper bracket

14. fit the new pads into the caliper bracket, some persuasion may be required.

15. replacing pads and not caliper........ push the piston back into the calliper using the G clamp. depending on the level in the brake fluid reservoir, the bleed nipple can be slackened and some of the fluid bled out. not necessary if the level in the reservoir is sufficiently low as there will be capacity for the surplus fluid to be pushed back.

16. apply some copper grease or ceramic compound to the rear of the pads and smear around.

17. If replacing the caliper check to see you have bought the correct side, they are handed.



18. check the operation of the sliding pins they should move in and out smoothly and may require some grease if sticky, then refit the caliper and tighten the new bolts which came with the pads into the sliding pins. I didnt have new bolts as the pads were ok so i reused the old ones with a dab of new threadlock on the end, tightened to 32nm.

see above photo.

19. clean the banjo fitting of all old debris so there is a clean mating surface, a bit of emery paper helped.



20. if you cant get replacement copper washers, then clean up the old ones and if they have gone hard anneal them by heating to cherry red then quenching in a bucket of cold water until they return to their original colour. they should then be soft enough to use. Clean the banjo nut.

21. refit the brake hose to the calliper. and tighten to 32nm



22. if a replacement wear sensor is required, remove the old one noting where it fits in the retaining clips, and refit the new one in the same place. It looks like you have to remove the arch liner to get at the connections but it is do-able if the 8mm bolt holding the centre of the liner is removed. This gives just enough access. if you managed not to break the old one then simply refit to the pads



23. remove the hose clamp from the brake line.

24. top up the brake reservoir with low viscosity fluid DOT4 to ISO4925 class 6, landrover do a litre for about £12.

25. bleed the brakes. if you have never done this before then heres how, if you have and know how to do it then......

place a spanner over the bleed nipple..



connect the bleed hose and place the end in a jar with some fluid in it already.



you now need a helper monkey. Get them to sit in the car, gently bearing in mind its on an axle stand/jack.

open the bleed nipple, and get them to press on the brake pedal and hold it down.
close the bleed nipple, get them to release the pedal.

repeat until no further air comes out of the nipple and the fluid runs continuously with no bubbles, then tighten the bleed nipple and disconnect the bleed hose.

26. refit the wheels
27. remove axle stands, lower car and torque wheel nuts to 140nm

repeat the procedure on the other side of the car if needed.

With the engine off, pump the break pedal to expand the callipers, until a firm pedal is felt. it may take a bit of force on the pedal to push the piston all the way into contact with the pads.
Road test the car.

this should about cover it. However, no doubt i have missed something out somewhere so please feel free to put up any corrections.

Loads a money saved doing it yourself and it really isnt that difficult with a basic set of tools.

Have fun, get dirty, then annoy your Doris by washing your hands and drying them on the clean tea towel.  There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

great how to.. wiki'fied. ... - .- -.




Y. O. L. O.
.

 Present :2008 TDV8 HSE
Gone Audi A5 2.7TDI
Gone Discovery 3 HSE
Gone Mercedes CLK
Gone Range Rover 2.5 DSE

Why didn't you change the carrier as well?

Because it doesnt come as part of the caliper kit, and there are pretty much no moving parts bar the sliding pins. Dead easy to swap over just two more bolts, but didnt see the point, when the dealer swapped my caliper the other side they just changed the body.

Never really seen them for sale apart from md spares and they are quite pricey. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Remember to road test slowly at first and try a few stops within 100m of your house. If you've cocked up the bleeding you won't want to discover it at the first junction you come to  
07 Supercharged - Still breaking her in!

Boot soundproofing part 1 - http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15612.html
Custom exhaust - http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15296.html
18" wheels for Brembo equipped cars - http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic15052.html

Think my rears need doing, squeeling and a lot of heat on the rears after a journey.
Will look out for a code on ecp and have a go myself as cant find any where near Ollerton.

You can paint them in a zinc paint before you do the job... Lasts for ages take the caliper carrier off, wire brush it & paint that too

We almost always change them in pairs A, saves the customer the inevitable return journey and B, potentially saves the cost of new rear discs & pads twice

Use ukpas25 for 25% off on ecp.

Works a treat. Less than £60 a side after handing back the old ones. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Would have done both mine Craig, but the MD did the other one only 6 months ago, i could have had this one done as well but was going away in the car and needed it asap. Next time it will be both and the discs. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Quote:

Think my rears need doing, squeeling and a lot of heat on the rears after a journey.
Will look out for a code on ecp and have a go myself as cant find any where near Ollerton.
Crying or Very sad

Did that on mine when i swapped them for the mot last year.

Looked like the powder coat made the pads too big for the caliper carriers. Worth a shot if there is plenty of meat left on the pads. I had 1 pad down to 1mm which is a fail on the mot. The rest were at 5mm ish, summat Was sticking somewhere. There is nothing that can't be fixed with a hammer😜😜
FFRR 4.4 SDV8 Autobiography Santorini Black.
Fiat 500x 1.4 multiair Lounge 2015
2010 LR D4 Commercial 2.7 TDV6

Changed them over the weekend, easy job really.
One calliper came with new copper washers, new slider covers/boots and grease, where the other side just came with new bolts, both TRW stamped callipers.

can i confirm that no 'computer' reset has to be done because of the electric hand brake? 2011 4.4 TdV8 Nara Bronze

You don't touch the handbrake when changing the callipers.
Handbrake is inside the rear brake disc, hub part.